TD5 engine dies after 5 minutes.

Hello all, first post and looking for advice.

I have a 2004 Discovery 2 TD5. I suspect that I have recently filled her up with bad or dirty fuel. The ‘other’ car is also a diesel and in the same week suffered from fuel issues and bad runnning. That was cured with copious amounts of redex in a near empty tank.

But the Disco is still suffering. I understand their fuel system is sensitive to poor fuel. In a nut shell she takes an age to start and has to be coaxed into life. You can hear the engine slowly building and repeat pushes on the accelerator final get her to fire. On other occasions she resolutely refuses to start. Once running all seems well, she revs without hesitation and if I go for a short drive she pulls like a train. However after approximately 5 minutes the engine begins to sound rough, power is lost and eventually she just dies. Sat running in the yard the same thing happens. Runs well, runs rough, dies. 5 minutes.

I’ve had the fuel pump out. It wasn’t particularly dirty, there was some grit, so it was cleaned and replaced. The pump works, you can hear it and if pipes unconnected see the fuel pumped. The fuel filter has been changed, and fuel is moving through there. My knowledge at the engine end is limited. I can hear the fuel and feel it through the inlet pipe to the regulator.

So, has anybody experienced this before or does anybody have any suggestions as to the problem. Thank you.

Does it restart straight away or does it need to cool down, mine died afet 5 miles , let is cool down and it would restart. Then die agin 5 miles later. It was the crNk sensor was fubarred.

Cheers

Hello Neilly. Thank you for your reply. No, it won’t start straight away, if at all. I had 5 days of trying to the point that I almost flattened the battery between getting her running, for 5 mins.

The crank shaft sensor is a good point. I’ve concentrated on it being a fuel issue because the other car also had fuel problems at the same time. It’s quite possible that it was just an unfortunate coincidence which has lead me up the wrong path.

Hi, Will it start if you do the air purge procedure on it (pumping the acc pedal 5 times) If so the usual suggetion is to change the injector O rings and seals.
Griff

Landmark2 said:

Hi, Will it start if you do the air purge procedure on it (pumping the acc pedal 5 times) If so the usual suggetion is to change the injector O rings and seals.
Griff

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Thank you Griff.

No, the bleed purge makes no difference.

Can you hear the pump running? if yes you really need to plug in a tester to make sure it's not a topside switch failure but rule out the main relay by swapping R8(heatd screen) with R9(main relay) for test or simply replace it with a bran new one

Update.

I’ve replaced the fuel pump on the assumption that it was working but not correctly. The disco was subject to a diagnostic check by a mechanic who reports no fault codes and it’s therefore an in tank fuel pump issue. He also said he wasn’t going to do the work as LRs are poor cars! before back tracking and saying he doesn’t work on 4x4s. Like the one I pointed out on his ramp. But that’s a Toyota he said and they don’t go wrong. He couldn’t explain why it was in bits on a ramp in his workshop if they didn’t go wrong. This nonsense aside, the disco still will not go.

So, whilst the car was going through it’s purge cycle I took to unplugging the fuel pipes into the fuel pump. The first black pipe on the vehicle left was dry, but I think that should be the case. The other black in pipe on the right had fuel flowing from it. The blue out pipe had fuel from the pump going into it but the green out pipe was dry. Nothing coming out. Is this correct for the purge process? I have changed only the pump, not the harness, my thought is that fuel is being prevented getting into the new pump (which is working). The filters are all clean. Could there be an airlock?

Derrygrea said:

Update.

I’ve replaced the fuel pump on the assumption that it was working but not correctly. The disco was subject to a diagnostic check by a mechanic who reports no fault codes and it’s therefore an in tank fuel pump issue. He also said he wasn’t going to do the work as LRs are poor cars! before back tracking and saying he doesn’t work on 4x4s. Like the one I pointed out on his ramp. But that’s a Toyota he said and they don’t go wrong. He couldn’t explain why it was in bits on a ramp in his workshop if they didn’t go wrong. This nonsense aside, the disco still will not go.

So, whilst the car was going through it’s purge cycle I took to unplugging the fuel pipes into the fuel pump. The first black pipe on the vehicle left was dry, but I think that should be the case. The other black in pipe on the right had fuel flowing from it. The blue out pipe had fuel from the pump going into it but the green out pipe was dry. Nothing coming out. Is this correct for the purge process? I have changed only the pump, not the harness, my thought is that fuel is being prevented getting into the new pump (which is working). The filters are all clean. Could there be an airlock?

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pump is two pumps in one, one lp the other hp 4 bar iirc,green pipe is feed from the hp side to engine,blue is lp feed to filter,black return from filter to hp side,white is an air bleed return, so if green is dry youve got a problem with the hp pump not working or not getting diesel

Derrygrea said:

He also said he wasn’t going to do the work as LRs are poor cars! before back tracking and saying he doesn’t work on 4x4s. Like the one I pointed out on his ramp. But that’s a Toyota he said and they don’t go wrong. He couldn’t explain why it was in bits on a ramp in his workshop if they didn’t go wrong.

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What a bellend. They do go wrong like any other motor but they cost a bomb to put right

Have you tried releasing the filler cap? Just a daft thought in case a breather pipe is blocked.

Derrygrea said:

Update.

I’ve replaced the fuel pump on the assumption that it was working but not correctly. The disco was subject to a diagnostic check by a mechanic who reports no fault codes and it’s therefore an in tank fuel pump issue. He also said he wasn’t going to do the work as LRs are poor cars! before back tracking and saying he doesn’t work on 4x4s. Like the one I pointed out on his ramp. But that’s a Toyota he said and they don’t go wrong. He couldn’t explain why it was in bits on a ramp in his workshop if they didn’t go wrong. This nonsense aside, the disco still will not go.

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That mechanic is a tosser, find a better one

The mechanic is sacked. Small minded fella who is capable of looking after old ladies corollas and not much else. Nothing wrong with working on a LR if you are capable. Anyway. I’ve stripped the pump and rebuilt it again. Nothing was obviously wrong, everything where it should be and connected. No twists in the pipes. I released the filler cap as Brian above suggested, purged it twice and she if running. Doesn’t cut out and restarts. Thanks for the above advice from all of you.

One last question. I’ve damaged the metal clip that secures the green HP hose to the pump. It’s wired up for now but I don’t know for how long. Where can I buy those tiny clips.