TD5 Diagnostics

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andy vash

Active Member
Posts
106
Hi can anyone help, I’ve just ran diagnostics on my Defender TD5 and the following faults have been recorded. What do they all mean and should I panic.
1. Fault 3064 A/C Fan Drive Open Load Logged
2. Fault 3066 Tacho Drive Open Load Logged If Open if ABS Fitted
3. Fault 3068 AC Clutch Drive Open Load Logged
4. Fault 3100 A/C AC Clutch Drive Load Active
5. Fault 3096 A/C Fan Drive Open Load Active
6. Fault 3098 Tacho Drive Open Load Active
The Defender is fitted with ABS and the dash has the ABS fault light permanently on. Unfortunately the Hawkey diagnostic tool cannot communicate with the WABCO control unit, is the unit shot
 
Hi I’m managed to sort out all the out what the error code mean and I’ve also managed to get the ABS unit working. However I get one fault code on the ABS
Fault 4060 current Pump relay power amp short to ground?
I have no Idea what this means, can someone advise?
Regards
 
After carrying out further diagnostics I have a historical fault
Fault 4013 pump failure 2 (low-level at x2 pin 8 during pump activation)
If I run live data it shows me 0.14v at pump relay and at pump supervision which I’m assuming is the pump it shows 0.00v
Where is the pump relay and what does it look like ?
 
i use nanocom but havent done anything with the live data side of it
just in case check the earth bolts under the seat know the right one in the injectors dont know if the wabco is on the left on or not, couldnt hurt to move it over to the right one just in case
 
andy vash said:
Hi I’m managed to sort out all the out what the error code mean and I’ve also managed to get the ABS unit working. However I get one fault code on the ABS
Fault 4060 current Pump relay power amp short to ground?
I have no Idea what this means, can someone advise?
Regards
Click to expand...
Spill the beans then then. What did they all mean and how did you sort them?
 
Shifty1962 said:
Spill the beans then then. What did they all mean and how did you sort them?
Click to expand...

He didn't.;)

1. Fault 3064 A/C Fan Drive Open Load Logged No aircon fitted
2. Fault 3066 Tacho Drive Open Load Logged If Open if ABS Fitted not fitted either
3. Fault 3068 AC Clutch Drive Open Load Logged see above
4. Fault 3100 A/C AC Clutch Drive Load Active ditto
5. Fault 3096 A/C Fan Drive Open Load Active same again
6. Fault 3098 Tacho Drive Open Load Active wanna guess? yep. Not fitted
Click to expand...
The actual fault is the one he's still stuck on.:doh::D:D:D
 
Hi I’m not bothered about the a/c faults, I’m just trying to figure out how to fix the ABS
 
After further investigation the Wabco ECU doesn’t seem to be sending a switching voltage to the pump relay
If I short the pins out on the relay the pump activates, so I assume the fault lies with the ECU?
Does anyone have a Defender ECU for sale; I don’t want to spend a fortune just in case I’m wrong?
 
Hi I Changed the WABCO unit for a new Defender ABS unit and it fixed the pump relay problem.
However if I run diagnostics the unit is fault free, when I turn the ignition key the traction control warning light goes out, this didn’t happen before. The ABS warning light goes out and then comes back on, again this didn’t happen before. The brake warning light stays permanently on.
Since I got the Land Rover two weeks ago, the brake warning light has always been on
Can anyone advise, do I still have an ABS problem or is the ABS light not extinguishing because of an issue with the brakes? I would like to point out the brakes work extremely well
 
Hi all,

I just registered this forum.
I bought last month my first Land Rover car, a Defender 90 TD5 2002 MY and I rented from a friend of mine a HawkEye.

I read DTCs errors and I got this list :

Fault: 3007 Ambient Pressure Low Fault Logged
Fault: 3018 Coolant Temperature High Fault Logged
Fault: 3030 Air Flow High Fault Logged
Fault: 3064 A/C Fan Drive Open Load Logged
Fault: 3066 Tacho Drive Open Load Logged (if ABS fitted)
Fault: 3068 A/C Clutch Drive Open Load Logged
Fault: 3069 MI Lamp Drive Open Load Logged
Fault: 3070 Glow Plug Lamp Drive Open Load Logged
Fault: 3096 A/C Fan Drive Open Load Active
Fault: 3098 Tacho Drive Open Load Active (if ABS fitted)
Fault: 3100 A/C Clutch Drive Open Load Active
Fault: 3120 High Speed Crank Synch Loss Logged
Fault: 3215 Injector 3 Open Circuit Logged

I could delete the error list but not the errors in bold fonts which I just learned from ratty's post in this thread are normal errors since I have no A/C and ABS as well in my car.

Are the other errors which I could delete, belonging to the past history of the car, sever faults ?

I do apologize for my poor English language, but I am Italian and I live in Milan.

Thank you for your help.

Cheers.
Bizio
 
Bizio said:
Hi all,

I just registered this forum.
I bought last month my first Land Rover car, a Defender 90 TD5 2002 MY and I rented from a friend of mine a HawkEye.

I read DTCs errors and I got this list :

Fault: 3007 Ambient Pressure Low Fault Logged
Fault: 3018 Coolant Temperature High Fault Logged
Fault: 3030 Air Flow High Fault Logged
Fault: 3064 A/C Fan Drive Open Load Logged
Fault: 3066 Tacho Drive Open Load Logged (if ABS fitted)
Fault: 3068 A/C Clutch Drive Open Load Logged
Fault: 3069 MI Lamp Drive Open Load Logged
Fault: 3070 Glow Plug Lamp Drive Open Load Logged
Fault: 3096 A/C Fan Drive Open Load Active
Fault: 3098 Tacho Drive Open Load Active (if ABS fitted)
Fault: 3100 A/C Clutch Drive Open Load Active
Fault: 3120 High Speed Crank Synch Loss Logged
Fault: 3215 Injector 3 Open Circuit Logged

I could delete the error list but not the errors in bold fonts which I just learned from ratty's post in this thread are normal errors since I have no A/C and ABS as well in my car.

Are the other errors which I could delete, belonging to the past history of the car, sever faults ?

I do apologize for my poor English language, but I am Italian and I live in Milan.

Thank you for your help.

Cheers.
Bizio
Click to expand...

The only faults showing that I would class as worrying are the 'coolant temp too high' and 'injector 3 open circuit' faults. Drive the vehicle around for a couple of days and plug it back in again just to make sure that all the faults are previous faults and not current faults.
 
ratty said:
The only faults showing that I would class as worrying are the 'coolant temp too high' and 'injector 3 open circuit' faults. Drive the vehicle around for a couple of days and plug it back in again just to make sure that all the faults are previous faults and not current faults.
Click to expand...

Hi ratty,

thank you so much for your clear explaination.
I will do that and I will report here if those faults are coming again.
 
I have been using my car almost for one month now and I never noticed the temperature indicator going into or towards the red zone but always staying into the blue towards the left side, so I think 'coolant temp too high' might be really an old fault ...

EDIT
Unfortunatly I am not expert at all of car repairing so I ingnore the meaning of the fault 'injector 3 open circuit'
 
Last edited:
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