Td4 2002
- Thread starter Jody
- Start date
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Madmustang
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Off the top of my head from all the posts I remember (and I have just got back from a 2 day h&s course so my brain is fried) I would say Ignition contacts may need cleaning or an earth issue.
Can you describe what happens when you turn the key please and also tell us the light sequence on the dashetc.
Can you describe what happens when you turn the key please and also tell us the light sequence on the dashetc.
GrumpyGel
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Don't think there's ignition contacts on a diesel?
Even though there's been 100s of threads on TD4s not starting and I've read a fair few, I'm no great expert on the TD4. Problems are often the O ring seals in the HP fuel pump solenoid or fuel pressure sensor connector corrosion but not sure how these would differ from a normal to bump start.
Just wondering if the engine uses different sensors (ie cam or crank) when turning over on the starter to normal 'run' conditions? I know 1 of the Freelander engines does, not sure if its the TD4, and if that could be this problem if it is.
Even though there's been 100s of threads on TD4s not starting and I've read a fair few, I'm no great expert on the TD4. Problems are often the O ring seals in the HP fuel pump solenoid or fuel pressure sensor connector corrosion but not sure how these would differ from a normal to bump start.
Just wondering if the engine uses different sensors (ie cam or crank) when turning over on the starter to normal 'run' conditions? I know 1 of the Freelander engines does, not sure if its the TD4, and if that could be this problem if it is.
So I put the key in and turn it so far as it's diesel so I wait say 30 to say 40 seconds and I have not noticed any lights different on the display or a diffeent sequence of the lights and I can here the fuel pump priming so I fully turn the key the engine turns over quickly but no start (I have a fully charged battery I have had this problem before) and if just had it pluggd in and the fuel pressure is fine to thanks for your help madmustang
Madmustang
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Yep you put the key on a turn and you should feel the key touch each contact in the barrel sweetie x
pardec
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Arctic2
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Hi Jody.
So the car is cranking over but will not start, you say fuel pump is ok, it will start with a bump, so chance is it could be starter motor, look for the little black spade end on the starter remove clean and refit see if it starts, also the contacts in the starter may need changing cost for parts are only about £12.00 and about 45 minutes work to change them.
So the car is cranking over but will not start, you say fuel pump is ok, it will start with a bump, so chance is it could be starter motor, look for the little black spade end on the starter remove clean and refit see if it starts, also the contacts in the starter may need changing cost for parts are only about £12.00 and about 45 minutes work to change them.
Last edited:
GrumpyGel
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If "the engine turns over quickly but no start", it sounds like the starter motor is working fine.
Just wondering if the HP pump will be turning over quicker and building more pressure.
How long have you owned the car?
Has starting become progressively worse or has it always started fine and now won't?
When you say it starts fine on a bump start - how are you bumping it? eg someone pushing it on level ground where it won't get much speed or down a hill or towed where it will get to a faster speed?
Just wondering if the HP pump will be turning over quicker and building more pressure.
How long have you owned the car?
Has starting become progressively worse or has it always started fine and now won't?
guineafowl21
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I seem to remember reading on a site (Lynx diesels?) that if a Td4 will not key start but will bump start it’s most likely a leaky injector.
Leakback test would be my next step.
Leakback test would be my next step.
I have had the freelander for 2 years and in the last say 2 months it's got worse on starting and I bump start down hill thanks for your help
GrumpyGel
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Well I've now had a good few pints of "Yorkshire Bitter" so my engineering prowess is at its maximum.
I'd say replace the O Rings on the regulator solenoid thingie in the HP pump - they only cost a few bob and if they're not shot now, they will be soon anyway. If that doesn't fix it, then get the injectors checked out. The only problem with injectors is that you are at the mercy of possibly sharks who will replace them with "reconditioned" ones that came straight out of a scrapped 200K miler. Therefore, it may be worth your while having a search for a recent thread that described a DIY reconditioning of the injectors. There have been a couple of these now and while a bit fiddly, they do not seam overly complex and have returned good results.
If that appears a simplistic view on life, the for a diesel to not start it is either due to the wrong quantities of fuel injected possibly at the wrong time or lack or air. If it starts on a bump, then I don't suppose air is the issue. I recon, and I'm not expert, that the engine is turning over quicker on the bump (down hill) which is generating higher fuel pressure - sufficient for the engine to catch. Its probably injecting at the right time for it to catch - so the cam/crank sensors are working fine. There's fuel there as it catches on a bump, so the lift pump(s) are working, that just leaves the delivery, which must be the HP pump or injectors.
I may be totally wrong - but I'm off to bed, and I leave it to northern hemisphere members to argue otherwise.
I'd say replace the O Rings on the regulator solenoid thingie in the HP pump - they only cost a few bob and if they're not shot now, they will be soon anyway. If that doesn't fix it, then get the injectors checked out. The only problem with injectors is that you are at the mercy of possibly sharks who will replace them with "reconditioned" ones that came straight out of a scrapped 200K miler. Therefore, it may be worth your while having a search for a recent thread that described a DIY reconditioning of the injectors. There have been a couple of these now and while a bit fiddly, they do not seam overly complex and have returned good results.
If that appears a simplistic view on life, the for a diesel to not start it is either due to the wrong quantities of fuel injected possibly at the wrong time or lack or air. If it starts on a bump, then I don't suppose air is the issue. I recon, and I'm not expert, that the engine is turning over quicker on the bump (down hill) which is generating higher fuel pressure - sufficient for the engine to catch. Its probably injecting at the right time for it to catch - so the cam/crank sensors are working fine. There's fuel there as it catches on a bump, so the lift pump(s) are working, that just leaves the delivery, which must be the HP pump or injectors.
I may be totally wrong - but I'm off to bed, and I leave it to northern hemisphere members to argue otherwise.
Skinny Mike
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Is it brewed under licence or shipped over? And which one?
Back on track
I agree with @guineafowl21 ,it's more than likely an injector, No1 probably.Mike
GrumpyGel
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Its a locally brewed ale using bitters from Yorkshire as its inspiration.Is it brewed under licence or shipped over? And which one?
Back on track
Mike
It was "OK". Not fantastic, not very smooth and a bit to chilled - but an OK pint. Of course after the first 1 or 2, it was great
https://untappd.com/b/two-thumb-brewing-co-yorkshire-bitter/2322472
In September 2017 Two Thumb founder and brewer Clayton Wallwork handed over the brewery to two lads hailing from Yorkshire, England. This one off brew is a Yorkshire / Kiwi themed celebration. Made with NZ grown clones of two of the oldest English hops - East Kent Golding & Fuggle. There is slight pine note with a good malt base coming through on the finish. There are no late additions which allows the sweetness of the Gladfield Malts from Christchurch to shine.
Tykes Yorkshire Bitter takes you back to sitting on a dry-stone wall in the summer sun looking out over the Yorkshire Dales and settling in for an afternoon session.
Perfect for a summer handpull!
