Freelander 1 Tailgate window headache!

Hello, I'm really hoping someone here can help! The battery on my Freelander 1 gave up a couple of weeks ago so we swapped it over but have had problems with the tailgate window since. When the old battery was disconnected / the new one put in the window dropped right down and we have tried a couple of methods of recalibrating it with no success. The window juddered as it raised up but is now stuck just shy of tucking under the top frame. When the ignition lights are turned on there is no door open light so it doesn't think the door is still open. When I press the inside switch or use the key in the back door the window goes up right to the top as it should but then comes back down to just below the top frame and beeps. When we use the switch inside to raise the window we can feel the motor try to do something, and when we try to lower the window there is no movement at all. It seems weird that something mechanical has gone wrong just off the back of changing the battery as there were no problems with the door before changing the battery. We've had the door card off and there is no obvious damage - has anyone else experienced this before we commit to a new window mechanism not knowing if it's actually going to help?! Thanks!

Sounds like rusty cables and the car thinks the window is up when it isn't.

Have you had the door panel off and motored window while watching? It may be fouling wiring or may be a twisted or rusty cable.
My guess is that it was on the edge of failing and a down and up caused by battery change finished it off!!

A new regulator and cables should sort the issue. Check to see what is happening first. Sounds like the motor is OK though.

E bay regulator kits are really inexpensive and work just fine, I have replaced mine for around £20 complete with cables and motor and to be fair it's not a difficult job.
I think it was just timing that it played up when battery was replaced and unconnected. I go forward with the view it's when they will stop working not if unless you know how old the units are its a given they are going to rust and either snap or in my case wrap around a pulley and stop.
There will be people on here who don't like to fit cheap aftermarket parts, myself included but finances dictate these days and you may not get 10 yrs out of a part but certainly value for money.
Good luck, Al.