Tail gate window cables, again!

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B

Border Boy

Member
Posts
77
Location
South Wales
Cables have broken on the tail-gate window on my 2006 FL 1

I've searched the forum, looked at the Youtube videos and the job looks doable :)
Question, which is the best value regulator kit to buy? LR trade parts sell one for £37.95 on Ebay but you can get cheaper and more expensive. Is there any point in buying used?
Nodge has a favourite supplier of FL parts but I can't find the post so perhaps he can let us have the link

Thanks for any help
 
Border Boy said:
Cables have broken on the tail-gate window on my 2006 FL 1

I've searched the forum, looked at the Youtube videos and the job looks doable :)
Question, which is the best value regulator kit to buy? LR trade parts sell one for £37.95 on Ebay but you can get cheaper and more expensive. Is there any point in buying used?
Nodge has a favourite supplier of FL parts but I can't find the post so perhaps he can let us have the link

Thanks for any help
Click to expand...

I think this is the link you are referring to.
Land Rover Freelander 2 L359 2006-2014 (advancedfactors.co.uk)

Land Rover Freelander 1 L314 1996-2006 (advancedfactors.co.uk)

Side & Tail Door Hardware (advancedfactors.co.uk)
 
I would probably go with a cheaper eBay complete unit. The 37 pound one probably only has 12 month warranty so I'd take the risk of cheaper, replace again if necessary. Once you've changed one they are quite straight forward to change as soon as it starts making grinding noises.
No point going 2nd hand.
 
Border Boy said:
Nodge has a favourite supplier of FL parts but I can't find the post so perhaps he can let us have the link
Click to expand...

Advanced Factors. ;) But they're expensive for regulators. I just buy the cheapest cable kit I can off ebay :eek:, and re-thread my own, well I did. I have a FL2 now, so tail door regulators issues are a thing of the past. :D
 
P1010119.jpg
P1010120.JPG

I installed the new regulator from LR Trade Parts, relatively straight forward job BUT rear window does not go under the top plastic moulding when tailgate is shut, see photo. I have adjusted the bolts arrowed on photo to push the runners further back to alter the angle of the window but still not working correctly.
Any advice will be much appreciated
 
Border Boy said:
View attachment 257457 View attachment 257462
I installed the new regulator from LR Trade Parts, relatively straight forward job BUT rear window does not go under the top plastic moulding when tailgate is shut, see photo. I have adjusted the bolts arrowed on photo to push the runners further back to alter the angle of the window but still not working correctly.
Any advice will be much appreciated
Click to expand...
Having the same problem on my one, but in my case Autoglass has done it. Always need to push the window slightly to get it in. Will probably order some cables off ebay and try the original one to see how that goes. Was an OEM one, but the thread of the bolt you've highlighted is completely adjusted, no more space and still not sliding in properly.
 
When tightening the adjusting bolts are you holding them with Allan key so they don't turn?
The bolts a double ended and so won't be tight where it bolts to the runner but is held in place by the bolt on outside against the door.
 
Yes, I used an Allan key for it. There was also some kind of plastic spacer underneath. Can't say what the Autoglass bloke has done, though. Would assume the same.
 
Border Boy said:
View attachment 257457 View attachment 257462
I installed the new regulator from LR Trade Parts, relatively straight forward job BUT rear window does not go under the top plastic moulding when tailgate is shut, see photo. I have adjusted the bolts arrowed on photo to push the runners further back to alter the angle of the window but still not working correctly.
Any advice will be much appreciated
Click to expand...
P1010220.JPG P1010218.JPG

I overcame the problem with a 75mm x 8mm screw on each leg of the runner. See photos
 
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