Swivel hub pin grease nipples

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Webley1991

Well-Known Member
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Today I noticed that the plates which hold the swivel hub pins in are both missing their grease nipples.

The holes seem to be full of dirt. Is it possible to remove these plates and pins without needing to strip the whole hub? Looking at the manual it looks to be possible. My plan would be to clean out the dirt from inside the pin, fit new nipples and replace the plates without stripping the whole hub.

The axles have been shot-blasted, repainted and rebuilt, but these seem to have been missed.

From looking at the official Land Rover manual it appears to be fairly straightforward, but I thought I'd check here first.

Here are a couple of photos to show what I'm talking about.

Thanks for any info.
 

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Someone appeared to have screwed a nipple into one of them at some time. I pushed a screwdriver into the hole, it around 1" deep and was full of grease.

Perhaps they have been modified?
 
You may have modified ones, I have done a few over the years I drill and tap for a grease nipple then cross drill and put a grease groove around the king pin. This should not be required but is a bit of piece of mind if using "One Shot" lube or running free wheeling hubs. It means you get some lube up there without having to remember to lock the hubs up. I tended to run with free wheel hubs locked all the time as I never fount any economy saving. Bloke on Ebay used to sell modified king pins at around £35 a go.
 
I pulled the two kingpins today. Both of them have been badly modified. it looks like someone simply drilled a hole down through the top, and then one across ways. There is no groove or anything.

The surface on both pins is also pitted. I suppose I should replace both of these?
 
It sounds like replacement time, along with the railco bush and thrust washer. A kit is available but it is rare that the lower taper roller bearing needs changing. Kingpin and railco fairly cheap to buy separately.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I had these axles shot-blasted, repainted and all seals replaced. The guy who did them left the kingpins etc. alone as he said there was no free play.

I know in that ideally everything should be replaced. However, it looks like a right pain to disassemble everything again after having paid to have most of it done once. I am tempted just to buy new top kingpins and shims.
 
I spoke to a local Land Rover specialist today to see how much they would charge to do this job.

The price they came back with was £675!!

You really do pay more for everything here in London.
 
I think he does not want the job. That price iS a **** take. Even an novice can do them in a day.
 
I thought that he probably didn't want the job as well.

I think i could manage to do them, however I really can't find the inclination to disassemble the whole thing.

I had a look again today and the pins aren't as bad as I thought. I think I will just buy new shims, re-fit them and hope for the best.

Is it simply a case of trial and error with shim thickness until the correct preload is achieved?
 
Yes trial and error with the shims. If the big swiveel seal is left on go for around 14/15 lb pull on the spring balance to allow for the extra drag. 10/12lb with seal removed. A simple enough job to do.
 
For anyone reading this thread:

What is the correct name for this plastic disk? There was one of these under each top kingpin.
 

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To resurrect this thread, I haven't got round to this yet as I've been away for a couple of weeks. Hopefully I should get it done next weekend.

When setting the shims for the steering resistance, is it necessary to torque the bolts up each time, or simply nip them up?
 
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