Evoque Suspension

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J

james7676

Member
Posts
31
After some advice really please
I own an Evoque 2.2 dynamic and the suspension on both driver and passenger front corners is extremely hard..I suspect the suspension has 'locked out'.
Is it a case of replacing both strut assemblies or can they be refurbished / rebuilt??

Any helpful comments welcomed, thanks in advance, J
 
Nope, not on air.
I'd have the front suspension at least looked before you go throwing shocks at it.
They are a standardized suspension setup like most cars.
Normally the shocks will go soft and bounce a little. Have you got the front Tyres pumped up too hard maybe?
 
I have taken it to a specialist. As its a Dynamic its got magnetic dampening. Both fronts have gone very hard. I'll phone my local stealer just for a laugh to find out our their price.. otherwise its a bay special..

Can these not be rebuilt? (I would hope so at £470 ish quid per corner)
J
 
Just before I try this what should I expect to happen?
Should the suspension go soft? And it through up a fault on the dash?

Will unplugging confirm if the suspension is 'locked' or not?
Thanks in advance J
 
I would of thought a splendid display of system fault warning lights on the dash maybe.
Has anyone checked the car over for suspension faults. It could a shock problem or the module controlling them. 🤔
 
Yeah I have had the car checked over by a specialist who advised both front suspension struts are 'locked'. That matches with the way the thing drives which is pretty terribly. There are no fault codes for the suspension. All other associated parts are confirmed as good.

I'm considering having both struts refurbished which is significantly cheaper than replacing with new.
However, seeing as the time for this would be approx. 3 weeks can anyone advise whether the car could be fitted with non magnetic dampening to keep it driveable?? As opposed to it being on axle stands..
 
personally wouldn't ever mess around with the suspension system by fitting parts that shouldn’t be on there

there’s the safety factor and would assume it would also invalidate ur insurance

Assume the adaptive damping module , height sensors and coils have been checked
 
Last edited:
I think I will install a new battery as a first port of call so to speak (have to start somewhere).. is it possible this could be part of the problem?
Then I'll scan for codes again after telling it is had a new battery.
The terrain settings all work with no issue. No faults in this regard.

Then I'll examine the wiring on the suspension and check for any damage.

Would it be best to jack the car up one side at a time to check? Or just unplug and examine?

Any thoughts welcome and thanks for all replies so far, J
 
gstuart said:
personally wouldn't ever mess around with the suspension system by fitting parts that shouldn’t be on there

there’s the safety factor and would assume it would also invalidate ur insurance

Not wishing to sound rude but if the parts are too expensive buy another vehicle
Click to expand...
Tis a very good point about modifications. 🤔
 
gstuart said:
Not wishing to sound rude but if the parts are too expensive buy another vehicle
Click to expand...
I don't find your comment particularly helpful or constructive. If your willing to pay £1000+ for a complete suspension per corner that's your affair. I prefer to get value for money. Plenty of Audi R8 owners get their magnetic dampeners refurbished with very good results. Maybe you would tell them to buy new ones from Audi? Which would be probably quadruple the price of refurb / rebuild 🤣

My first post did request helpful comments welcomed
 
Think about how adjustable electro-magnetic damping needs to work. Assuming they are not siezed mechanically, then zero power = minimum damping, and as the current increases the damping will be stiffer.

So if you disconnect the dampers, then yes you will probably get ECU faults (but they can be cleared later), but the damping should go to minimum ?? If they are still solid, then maybe it's mechanical ?

According to this Ejoke forum, just switch the car off, and try bouncing it using a door for leverage.

Either way, look for suitable diagnostic tool & do it yourself, rather than paying "specialist" for the diagnostics. Remember many "specialists" simply go for the replace & see if that fixes things method !!

I don't know the Ejoke, but that's how I would approach it.
 
james7676 said:
I think I will install a new battery as a first port of call so to speak (have to start somewhere).. is it possible this could be part of the problem?
Then I'll scan for codes again after telling it is had a new battery.
The terrain settings all work with no issue. No faults in this regard.

Then I'll examine the wiring on the suspension and check for any damage.

Would it be best to jack the car up one side at a time to check? Or just unplug and examine?

Any thoughts welcome and thanks for all replies so far, J
Click to expand...
Before fitting your new battery you will need to fully charge it.
 
Anaconda said:
If they work independently of each other then it's surprising they would both fail mechanically at the same time, I would have thought.
Click to expand...
I agree, given JLR's reputation when it comes to electronics, I would suspect the control module or connections. Interesting concept using linear motor technology for suspension control.
 
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