Series 3 Suspension Bushes

How do you test/check the chassis bushes for the leaf springs?

I have a set of new leaf springs to fit which include new bushes, I have new u-bolts, and will be getting new shackle bolts. The only thing left is the chassis bushes. I understand that they are difficult to remove, standard burn/cut/hammer method, and are even more difficult to refit and would require a special puller to be made. There also seems to be a lot of mixed reviews on polybushes which although easy to fit are of debatable quality ad i have not yet found on their own, they all seam to be a complete vehicle kit which is very expensive. As such I would like to avoid changing them if i can but need to check they are still serviceable. I have not yet started the job and am gathering the parts needed before undertaking it so everything is still fitted to the vehicle at present.

If the bushes look ok, the rubber is not cracked and the steel tube is not worn they are likely good to stay.
Cleaning out the hole for the bush helps a lot with the refit,a length of rod with a slot in one end into which a length of emery strip is placed and then spun in an electric drill does a good job of getting it shining bt do not get carried away.

If they have been in for a long time they should be replaced. As posted it's a burn bash cut dirty job. Once out team the hole with a 32mm reamer as the holes get ovaled over time. Makes fitting the new ones easier. A bit of copper grease and they should go in with a drift. Torque settings are in the workshop manual.

Assorted bits of tube, old sockets and a length of M12 stud (which goes through a 1/2" socket). Hard work but effective. You can try pentrating oil for a few weeks beforehand and give it a heavty thump once the stud is tight to get it moving. Mine had been in a long time but came out quite easly in that they were not stuck, but it was a decent spanner force all the way. I did mine weight-on by jacking between the spring and chassis then putting blocks under the bump stops with the wheels on the ground, saves a lot of time and its safe as there's nowhere for it to fall.

John S said:

Once out team the hole with a 32mm reamer as the holes get ovaled over time.

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I really want to avaoid this if possible as it is a galvanised chassis, which although fitted before i got the vehicle cannot be that old so i hoping it will not be necessary.

rob1miles said:

I did mine weight-on by jacking between the spring and chassis then putting blocks under the bump stops with the wheels on the ground, saves a lot of time and its safe as there's nowhere for it to fall.

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You are goiong to have to explain that one further. Is that for replacing the springs? I am going to remove the whole axle as it needs a new diff pan welding on which I will do at the saem time. It will be far easier off the vehicle and if i am already taking the springs off and diff out the only extra is the brake pipe.

I was only replacing the spring bushes, I put a small bottle jack between sring and chassis to just take the wieght of the bolt then once it was out jacked it a bit more to clear the bush and put a block between the spring and bump stop to hold the wieght. You just do one at a time. Has the dif pan corroded? Mine had an army weld on it where it looked like the crownwheel had come out, leaked so I soft soldered it in situe and plastic metal over that, been good for 3000 miles. How will you get the old pan off without getting dirt in the axle?

As your chassis all ready has bushes in it you should not need to do anything more than a light clean of the hole,the only ones I have seen out of shape were when people had kept driving the vehicle when the bush was totaly shot.

tottot said:

As your chassis all ready has bushes in it you should not need to do anything more than a light clean of the hole,the only ones I have seen out of shape were when people had kept driving the vehicle when the bush was totaly shot.

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That is reassuring so I will look to replace them.

The next question is poly or OEM?
There seems to be a big split of opinion in the research I have done on them. I am leaning towards OEM as I have done the same with the springs rather than fit parabolic but people seem to also rave about the pollybushes

My preference is OEM, the rubber bonded bushes last a long time and they hold the axle firmly, I can't comment on poly bushes as no expereince.

On a series I would stick with the original type,the two part polybush type could be a reason for holes wearing oval as fine grit could get between them and the chassis.On a 90 / 110 the bushes are not fitted in the chassis but in removable parts.

I remember replacing these bushes when I was a mechanic, back in the day when Series 3s were the current model. We used to burn out the rubber with the oxy/acetylene plant and then hacksaw through the steel casing. Smelly and long-winded... Would I want to do it all again? Not really, I've got Britpart blue polybushes in the rear springs on my LR, they've been in for about 8 years and are still perfect, no wear evident at all. I don't buy into the "expensive ones are better idea". No complaints about the Britpart ones and they are so much easier to install than the OEM type. I didn't always think like this, very sceptical about these new-fangled polybushes but experience has changed my mind.

dag019 said:

That is reassuring so I will look to replace them.

The next question is poly or OEM?
There seems to be a big split of opinion in the research I have done on them. I am leaning towards OEM as I have done the same with the springs rather than fit parabolic but people seem to also rave about the pollybushes

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X1 good advice and if you've got a galvanised chassis as stated try drifting them in first. It's a rubber bush so it should be tolerant to the galv if it's not ovaled.