Still overheating

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ashleywood.ash

Active Member
Posts
558
Location
sheffield uk
Been for its mot this morning and passed without issue.
However driving it back the temp gauge climbed very quickly to just below red so pulled over to have a look.

(To update its 200tdi conversion, just had new head gasket, new head, water pump and stat after overheating and cracking old head)

I left it running and there is a bit of smoke/steam coming from rad. It's had all new coolant and appears to be dripping still do not sure if this is because of that. This was a small amount.
Rocker cover hot cant quite hold hand on. Top hoses warm but can hold, rad where top hose goes in warm other side of rad and bottom hose cold.
No fan on.

I have ordered a Tim gauge but it's not here yet. Before all problems it never used to budge from half way on current gauge.
Does it sound like its overheating? Should I not drive it until Tim arrives so I can get a better reading?

I am just worried after damage last overheat caused
 
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200 tdi should run cool. I struggle to get mine into the high 80's, even in this weather. Was the stat tested? New ones are often duff. You could have an airlock but that's not common in a 200. It's also worth checking the bulkhead earth.
 
Doesn't sound like an overly hot engine, my rocker cover gets fairly hot too - the top hose should be just a bit cooler, so you can just hold your hand on it. Obviously, there shouldn't be steam coming from the rad. I would take the thermostat out and run it again to see if that makes a difference - there are plenty of duff new stats out there.
 
Ok stay out whilst engine was warm (top of white)

Ran it 5 miles with no stat and it worked its way down to half way and sat there. Must be a stat issue. I'll put the old one back in which was wax stat and I'll bin the new bearmach one
 
It overheated as I stupidly drove it home after aux belt snapped.
I guess I don't know.
It worked fine before overheating but I guess overheat could have knackered it.

Surely if it's fine without stat then it's a stat issue
 
I can't tell at mo as took stat out again and have driven to cinema as promised daughter to watch finding dory.
When I was trying before no there was no pressure and hoses were soft.
I fitted old stat and realised with the new one I had forgot the little runner gasket on the rim of the stat so fitted gasket to old stat and fitted. It got hot again and there was a hiss of pressure in tank. Don't know this time without stat in. I will open it after trip home (5miles)
 
What do the pipes feel like pressure wise?

I only say this as mine had weird symptoms and had wisps of steam from the rad, the pipes felt soft.

Had a new rad and now the system holds pressure and stays more consistent in temp.

I made a home made pressure tester, put some flouro dye in the header tank and pumped up till the cap hissed - about 9psi. I left it over night and then looked for dye using a uv torch - I had a leaking rad. Swapped out and it's fine now.

I can only put it down to random boiling due to lack of pressure lowering the boiling point to 'normal' rather than higher like in a pressurised system.

Here is how I made a pressure tester lol
 

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Maybe my rad is the issue then. It is leaking somewhere and some fins are wet. Didn't think this would be an issue. Wasn't leaking before and read that they do sometimes leak after coolant change before just sorting themselves out

Is rad weld an option?
 
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Good idea that Flat. Pressure testers are expensive.

Yep that put me off. Will measure the pipe later if you want? I just put a schrader valve it in, it was a tight push fit, I didn't need to glue it or anything. It also was a snug push fit on the header tank bit to. Worked well. Just don't forget to clamp the small pipe you pull off the header tank
 
Maybe my rad is the issue then. It is leaking somewhere and some fins are wet. Didn't think this would be an issue. Wasn't leaking before and read that they do sometimes leak after coolant change before just sorting themselves out

Is rad weld an option?

Nah it just delays the inevitable. And can **** up internal coolant channels elsewhere.

Either fit a new plastic and Ali rad for less than £100 or if you have the original copper and brass rad get it recored. Mine was £145 +VAT to be recored and I reckon will last longer than me so for more spend more spend once was the best solution.

I find the Ali and plastic rads have a far shorter working life

Attached is what my rad was like.
 

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Ok so journey back.
Gets to running temp (half way) in 1.5 miles (around 4-5 min)
Stays at half way the whole journey (5 mile)
Pop bonnet and pipes and rocker are all warm but I can hold my hands on them. Rad it hot. Bottom pipe rad and rocker all hotter than top pipe but I can just hold my hands on.
Good pressure in top pipe but not rock hard. Open tank and a small his and pipes go soft. They still not gone back hard yet after idle.
Wet patch on rad find behind fan but no where else.

All this is with no stat and the rubber gasket around the stat is now fooked so not sure if stay can go in without one

Temp picked up to top of white since opening expansion.

How long does recore take and anyone know of anywhere near Sheffield.
Meant to be going green laning to Wales on 15th :(
 
Ok, going to bed now as on nights,
Tomorrows job is to test the fan heat regulator thing as fan works but is not kicking in, this is because heat sensor or relay is broken or because it's not actually getting that hot.

Second job, drain entire system including block (I didn't do that this time) flush and fill just incase old antifreeze in block is different type to new antifreeze I put in and that is sludging up.

Any other things to do let me know :) thanks for help and sorry I'm thick
 
Can't sleep as this is doing my nut.
Fan temp sensor doesn't appear to be working so can't rely on that. Put it in boiling water and nothing. Tried ohms reader and also nothing
 
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