HOW MUCH!?
How the hell can they justify such a difference?
The way my luck is going at the moment it'll be the dear bu**er
I really needed this right now!
Hi JB, I shouldn't worry about the cost of the injectors if I were you, as I suspect it has nothing to do with them at all.
To summarise your motors' overall state: it runs really rough or won't start, it emits white smoke when running, you have had the head tested and compression is all good.
Incidently, when trying to start the vehicle, I assume you know that you must not touch the accelerator pedal until steady tickover has been established? If you try to start the EDC motor and applying ANY throttle, it will disable the cold-start process and make starting the engine a lot more difficult.
The EDC models have a fly-by wire throttle which communicates with the ECU and IF malfunctioning will trigger the yellow "engine problem" dashboard light you referred to in your other thread.
Going back to basics, I would be looking at timing (has the timing belt been changed recently?) and fuel supply.
Timing:
As you are aware, pump and camshaft timing are controlled by a rubber cambelt. White smoke is often a sign of unburnt fuel due to a timing problem.
If not changed regularly they can cause engine running problems and risk collapse with serious consequences.
A stretched belt can allow the pump and camshaft pulleys to jump one or more ribs on the belt, therefore operating out of sync.
A worn woodruff key on the main crankshaft can allow for smaller movements of out-of-sync also.
A poorly installed replacement belt where the tensioner is not correctly set will allow the belt to jump with the same out-of-sync issues.
I would suggest that the timing needs to be checked and if there is any doubt about when the belt was last replaced, replace that and the tensioner plus idler.
Fuel supply, areas to check/rectify:
1. The fuel sedimenter at the back of the chassis rail drivers side, this needs checking/cleaning on a regular basis and rarely gets done. You will need to remove the bowl to check/clean. To do this you will need an 11mm ring spanner and remove the bolt on top of the unit which will release the bowl. Sometimes they stick on their rubber seal, so give it a light tap with a rubber mallet or similar, to remove it. Clean and reinstall.
2. Put in a new fuel filter - why wouldn't you at only a few quid. Fill with fresh diesel before installing.
3. Check that the lift pump is working correctly by opening the bleed screw on top of the filter housing and operating the lift pump crank arm. You should feel a little pressure and fuel should come out the bleed scrw hole.
4. Check the injection pump by slackening off one injector pump connecting pipe at a time and see if fuel comes through. If it does on all injectors the inj. pûmp will be ok.
All off this is suggested as a means of eliminating fuel supply from the potential problem list.
Food for thought I hope?
Cheers and good luck.
Dave
