Starting Bare Engine

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Got someone coming to look at my Rewiring at weekend .
But was Just thinking in the meantime about my engine, I was told by the PO that he had heard it running before he bought it and that it was OK, But for piece of mind before I get everything wired up and start fitting New Timing belt kits and water pump etc, I think I will try and turn it over to make sure. I have got a post somewhere on here about how to do this but cant find it, so Question is anyone got a step by step guide on this, I know it needs Diesel running in it, and earthed, but not sure where to Touch Live wire to get it turning over,. watched a few vids on YouTube but they are all Petrol, would like to see pics of where to connect wires on 300 Tdi .
 

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So to start this.
Switched Live wire to pump.(switch off to stop)
Switch live to starter solenoid(press to start)
Main live cable to starter motor(back to live on battery)
Cables form alternator output to starter motor(so you don’t fry the alternator)
Exciter wire to alternator(using lamp live & earth)
Make sure you turn it over for a bit before
To build oil pressure to the turbo.
Then switch on diesel :)

Good luck
 
@border - nice to see progress - looking good :)

Hicap phill said:
So to start this.
Switched Live wire to pump.(switch off to stop)
Switch live to starter solenoid(press to start)
Main live cable to starter motor(back to live on battery)
Cables form alternator output to starter motor(so you don’t fry the alternator)
Exciter wire to alternator(using lamp live & earth)
Make sure you turn it over for a bit before
To build oil pressure to the turbo.
Then switch on diesel :)

Good luck
Click to expand...

+1 - I'd suggest you fit an oil pressure gauge, and turn the engine on the starter until you have good oil pressure before energising the (fuel) solenoid on the FIP.

When I stripped the EDC off my 300 Tdi auto, I ran it for less than 30 seconds without coolant, to make sure it actually ran with the "new" FIP - ( new to that engine anyway ;) ) .... that was 30K miles ago, and it still goes ;);) :D

Oh, and you'll need an earth cable too, to make it all work ( but you knew that ) :)
 
Hicap phill said:
So to start this.
Switched Live wire to pump.(switch off to stop)
Switch live to starter solenoid(press to start)
Main live cable to starter motor(back to live on battery)
Cables form alternator output to starter motor(so you don’t fry the alternator)
Exciter wire to alternator(using lamp live & earth)
Make sure you turn it over for a bit before
To build oil pressure to the turbo.
Then switch on diesel :)

Good luck
Click to expand...

That is far to proper a way to do it! It depends how full a job you want to do, a rough and ready way would use jumper cables direct to to the starter motor terminals, turn it over for a bit to get oil pressure, then a quick direct 12v feed to the stop solenoid (pull it off to stop) jumper cables again to start.
I wouldn't bother wiring up the alternator, and if you are really worried I would just take the belt off, Its not like you need the water pump! Might be worth wiring up a oil pressure bulb to check it has pressure which is easier than a guage, but depends how fully you want to do it. @Hicap phill method is the most comprehensive, and if you wanted to you could plumb in the rad and fill with water as well.
 
Have you got, or could borrow, a compression tester?
What are you going to do if it doesn't start?
TBH even a diesel in poor nick will start. So, what's it going to tell you, clearly, in the amount of time you can run it for? Other than worn rings and blow by, most issues you'll be able to sort without taking the engine out again. I'd be turning an unknown engine over with a compression tester before going to the trouble of fitting it.
 
Thanks for info Everyone got it wired up. But Think its Fu!!!ed. Wouldn't Start, was turning over and chucking oil out but would not fire up. It was blowing air out of top in pic, is this normal ?
Got short Video, but cant upload it on here anyone know how to do it.
 

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You upload video to YouTube & post/upload the link
It will blow air out that top alloy hole. It connects to the intercooler then to the turbo.

Where was the oil coming out from?
 
Hicap phill said:
You upload video to YouTube & post/upload the link
It will blow air out that top alloy hole. It connects to the intercooler then to the turbo.

Where was the oil coming out from?
Click to expand...
Oil coming out of the two holes either side of Oil Filter where pipes from radiator screw in.
So is it normal for air to come out of top hole
 

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Lift pump?

How are you fuelling this?
I would connect the oil pipes to the rad(saves a mess)
Then turn over & crack an injector pipe to see if diesels getting to there.
Also Connect the water.
 
Hicap phill said:
Lift pump?

How are you fuelling this?
I would connect the oil pipes to the rad(saves a mess)
Then turn over & crack an injector pipe to see if diesels getting to there.
Also Connect the water.
Click to expand...
Fuel going in to pipe on Injection Pump is that right or should it go to Lift Pump
Video here
 
Last edited:
If you have no pipes in the oil cooler holes your going to devoid the engine of oil very quick.

I do think this is a very silly idea at the moment as the number of ancilliaries you need to bolt to an engine to ensure it doesn't self destruct it nearly as much as if you just fitted it into the car and fitted it correctly.

The wiring of a pre td5 takes about ,45 seconds and if it doesn't start when in you can prime it by dragging it down the road.

If it still doesn't start then you probably got something wrong.

It's amazing how bad a diesel engine has to be to not start eventually.

If it's not primed it'll never start.
 
Hicap phill said:
Yes it’s normal for air out that hole.
That’s from the exhaust ports going to the turbo.
Click to expand...
Are you sure? The picture/video is the air intake so should not have exhaust coming from it. When mine was chuffing out of that (like the video) it was after the timing belt had snapped and I had leaking valves. Was a fairly easy fix, took the head off and reground the valves, but a quick test for that in its current state would be to remove the rocker shaft and turn it over again. This should ensure all valves are fully closed, if still chuffing then the valves are leaking.
 
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