Sound deadening- sources of noise?

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FlyingPete

FlyingPete

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,305
Location
Coventry
I've been pondering noise reduction for my 90 for a while now. I know it's true that most Landys are clattery old beasts, but as with leaks, it doesn't mean they have to be or should be.

In driving around, I've identified a few main areas where noise is produced:

- Rear wheel arches: in wet weather water spraying up from the road/tyres drums against the wheel boxes. Fix this by sticking camping mat or similar to the underside? There's already carpeting on the inside that's stuck down.

- Dashboard: all manner of resonance at certain engine speeds. Fix by bolting everything down securely and fitting lead flashing to the inside?

- Interior trim panels rattling on the fixings (e.g the county rear window trim.) Fix by securing properly and possibly adding foam matting on the back?

- Doors generally rattling around. This I'm assuming due to the sort of clatter you get when closing the door- as opposed to the dull thud on modern vehicles. S sound deadening material on the inside of the door skin?

- Engine noise propagating through the bonnet/bulkhead. Fix with bonnet deadening kit and foam backing to the existing front carpets?

Anyone had much success after doing this sort of thing? Any other obvious places that I've missed?

Pete
 
The biggest difference on mine was switching from mud terrains to all terrains, I've got stuff on the roof, front footwells and rear arches but nothing drowns out km2's apart from having the windows down and the stereo on full tilt
 
Marmaduke said:
The biggest difference on mine was switching from mud terrains to all terrains, I've got stuff on the roof, front footwells and rear arches but nothing drowns out km2's apart from having the windows down and the stereo on full tilt
Click to expand...

The racket you get from grizzly claws on a friend's Disco has to be heard to b e believed. I'm using rangemasters on the front and michelin XPCs on the rear so they're reasonably quiet.
 
I did the floor in the front of my 90, that meant I could hear the rear noises more.

I then did the roof in the front which made the rear noise more pronounced.

I did the rear tub and the engine noise was standing out then.

Fitted under bonnet sound proofing last weekend and now the gear box whine is annoying...

The doors are next on my list though, new doors to be fitted and insulated before they go on. It does make a big difference with each bit.
 
I am starting from the top downwards. I installed 1" high density open cell foam in the ceiling and will be cutting 1/2" PVC foam core sheets to line the cargo area. The sheets will be covered with a padded carpet.

I have newly covered roof liners to go in too.

We will make panels out of the same PVC for the side window surrounds which will be covered with padded leatherette.

The only problem with this, is that it will affect you acoustics if you like a decent sound system.

I bought An alpine head unit which has programmable delays per speaker so that will help a bit.

.

72002d1432573983-sandy-landy-will-rebuilt-just-make-her-new-again-high-density-foam-ceiling.jpg


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69239d1425426148-sandy-landy-will-rebuilt-just-make-her-new-again-landy-interior-painted.jpg
 
I made a big improvement in noise levels on my 300tdi CSW, by part exchanging it last week for a TD5 CSW.
It's a fair bit quieter and more refined, with the added advantage of no leaks into the footwells when it rains.
However it cost £4,000 so not the cheapest solution
 
Barbados said:
The only problem with this, is that it will affect you acoustics if you like a decent sound system.

I bought An alpine head unit which has programmable delays per speaker so that will help a bit.
Click to expand...

How so? I'd have thought a more absorbent interior would only benefit acoustics due to fewer reflections.
 
The biggest differences for me have been adding inner wheel arches, soundproofing the tub and sides, and adding extra seals around the doors.

To do the wheel arches I added some load bed liner that I riveted on. If I did it again I would have added some closed cell camping mat on the inside first. It has made a good difference though, and you don't get that terrifying noise when stones hit the arches now!
IMG_4973_zps1926f88f.jpg


For sound proofing I used:
Camping mat on the sides:
WP_20141222_13_45_39_Pro_zpse2a3c957.jpg

EVA matting on the floor:
WP_20150203_16_47_16_Pro_zpserb0mvom.jpg


and then I got some extra seals from ebay and put them around the edge of the doors. You do have to slam them a bit, but it stops some road noise and stops draughts a lot.

I have also put some sound proofing in the doors, but it hasn't made much difference.
 
james6546 said:
The biggest differences for me have been adding inner wheel arches, soundproofing the tub and sides, and adding extra seals around the doors.

To do the wheel arches I added some load bed liner that I riveted on. If I did it again I would have added some closed cell camping mat on the inside first. It has made a good difference though, and you don't get that terrifying noise when stones hit the arches now!
IMG_4973_zps1926f88f.jpg
Click to expand...

That looks like a good approach. It's about stopping noise being transmitted directly into the tub really- the carpet on the inside of mine should do the rest.

james6546 said:
I have also put some sound proofing in the doors, but it hasn't made much difference.
Click to expand...

I guess that apart from adjusting them to stop them flapping around in the wind, there's not much to be gained from the doors. TBH I'd just like them to close with a proper 'thunk' rather than sounding like a tin shed. The locks and window mechanisms probably have a role in this.
 
Mines as quit as a mouse no noises at all [emoji12] did I mention I was totally deaf [emoji112]🏻[emoji109]🏻[emoji120]🏻[emoji118]🏻[emoji110]🏼[emoji117]🏻[emoji106][emoji108]🏻
 
FlyingPete said:
That looks like a good approach. It's about stopping noise being transmitted directly into the tub really- the carpet on the inside of mine should do the rest.
Click to expand...

I have mats on the arches on the inside, but I think it would have made a difference if I also put some closed cell matting on the back of the liner.

FlyingPete said:
I guess that apart from adjusting them to stop them flapping around in the wind, there's not much to be gained from the doors. TBH I'd just like them to close with a proper 'thunk' rather than sounding like a tin shed. The locks and window mechanisms probably have a role in this.
Click to expand...

They thunk a bit more, but not the same sound you get from all other vehicles!
 
It's noticeable very time you insulate something you hear noises from some thing else.
Here's my list
200tdi tappet cover insulator.
Full width under bonnet liner fitted if I was to do it again I'd fatmat the hollows before the liner. I might drill out the rivets and do that in the future.
Opening the vents brings in a lot of 200tdi engine noise so I'm going to fit armaflex to wherever I can in the engine compartment.

Cab lined with flashing tape then wright liner mat I'll do behind the dash when it gets modified. I'm going to line the inside of the seat boxes soon.
Van body entirely lined with flashing tape, tub has ten mm rubber on it.
Van sides have camping mats and then wood cladding, which is easier to do than measuring and fitting ply and I like the look, roof to do same method.

To do,
build a removable wood wall between cab and body, it'll be in two pieces as the section behind the driver won't be removed often. Carpet lined on the cab side. Since the head rest on standard land rover seat is about neck level, I'll remove it and fit a padded head rest at the right height to the wall.
Cab shelf on the roof/ van side ledge attached to wall, going forward to above windscreen in the middle to form roof centre console. Cab roof lining going to be improved at this time. Also at that time fit radio cb and cab lights.
Fit flashing tape to inside of cab doors, door cards need replacing and will get closed cell foam where it fits, do rear door when it gets replaced.

They've been going mad with the chicken **** gravel on the roads round here, it sounds like a machine gun under there, so I'm looking at rubber under floor lining which should help with general noise reduction as well.
Also looking into gearbox / transfer box blanket
 
Last edited:
I've used "peel-n-seal" from Amazon, throughout the 110. It's helped considerably. Similar to dynamat, but a fraction of the cost.

I also used the following: http://www.lobucrod.com/ it's closed cell foam, with reflective material on both sides. Great pricing too. The above with this, makes a HUGE difference!

On top of all that, I added horse stall matting to the floors front & back as well as the rear tub. This stuff is almost an inch thick. And allows for drying beneath it, as one side is slotted, the other has a "diamond pattern" raising it for air flow.

Another recommendation..... http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/181666537927?nav=SEARCH

The discovery td5 gearbox insulation. It's similar to the TD5 cover, but for the gearbox. Calms down the "chatter".
 
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