Sound Deadening, 300Tdi?

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LandymanT

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Hi All,
In a few months time I will be taking on an 800 mile trip in my 1998 300 Tdi 90, love this car too bits but I do find the motorway drone I bit diffcult to listen too after 2-3 hours. Does anyone have any recommendations for little bits and pieces I can do to make the cabin a bit quieter (i.e- be able to hear the person next too me)? Thank you!
 
Van, sw, truck cab?
Any flat panel will make a noise.
You can get an acoustic mat which covers the floor and seatbox, Wright matting I think.
Before you do anything you need to stop the water coming in.
I took the head lining out of mine, used some sound pads and then insulation foam, any gaps I used plastic based loft insulation. Also did this on the sides behind the interior trim. Also sound pads on the inside of the door skins and foam insulation stuck on the back of the door inner trims.
I have removed the factory floor and bulkhead insulation as it soaks up all the water which still gets in here and there.
It's reasonably good and gives it a more solid feel, especially the doors.
Almost forgot, fit an overdrive which will drop the revs down a bit on the motorway and make 70mph more pleasant.
Where you going, anyway nice?
 
www.deadening.co.uk

Silent Coat 2mm - 20 Sheet Pack

Silent Coat 2mm Damping Mat uses constrained layer damping to lower panel resonance and absorb structural vibrations, converting them into low level heat. Stop those nasty rattles, eliminate road and outside noise, insulate your vehicle and dramatically improve the sound of your car interior...
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A random link rather than a recommendation. Oh, you don't need to cover every last bit of panel for it to work, some people get a bit carried away. Insulation needs better coverage.
 
As above advice from Anaconda. I did near enough the same as him on my 300 tdi 90. Used the stuff you see in that photo. I used more than 50 sheets would you believe. Was fine. Got the acoustic mat too, way better than original. Makes the machine a lot more bearable…but now I can hear the better half whining all the time now 🤷‍♂️
 
I used the 2mm Ali-butyl sound deadening on the I deraid wig the floor panels, inside the door (I have series doors) seat box, bulkhead, and full roof (under the head lining). I went with full coverage but @Anaconda is correct you don’t actually need to.
Over the top I then have the factory rubber covers for bulkhead and seat box. I did mine I. Stages so cannot say which one made the biggest difference but each one improved a little making it bearable now. However once you have done all that your biggest issue is then wind noise (I have a roof rack so Even worse), and there is very little you can about that.
 
Anaconda said:
Pretty sure that's the insulation I used, you still need to use sound deadening pads first though on any big flat panels.
Click to expand...

Do you really? I thought it would work as good sound deadening. My son used it on his camper, hence why I posted it. Not sure of the sound deadening properties, personally.
 
I used DoDo mat. Covered the floor and seatbox and as much of the bulkhead I could see in the front cab.
I then covered the rear tub floor and sides up to the hardtop.

When I cleaned up the doors I put it on the inside and when I am underneath I cover any exposed bits with the 6mm 'thermo liner'.
It makes a massive diference.

www.deadening.co.uk

Dodo Mat DEADN Hex 30 Sheets

Dodo Mat DEADN Hex is a self adhesive, foil backed sound deadening vibration damper. Simply cut, peel & stick Dodo Mat DEADN Hex on the interior sheet metal of any vehicle to reduce unwanted vibrations & structural noise. Make those panels as dead as a Dodo! Dodo Mat DEADN Hex has a high grade...
www.deadening.co.uk www.deadening.co.uk

www.deadening.co.uk

Dodo Thermo Liner 6mm - 3sq.m Roll

We are proud to announce our best selling Thermo Liner is now available in a new improved "version 3". We have upgraded the flexible closed cell elastomeric foam with improved thermal performance. Thermo Liner v3 features a combination of low thermal conductivity and high water vapour diffusion...
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Phill said:
Do you really? I thought it would work as good sound deadening. My son used it on his camper, hence why I posted it. Not sure of the sound deadening properties, personally.
Click to expand...
You do really, the insulation is more for heat and cold although does keep some noise down.
Think of the inside of the rear roof and how tinny it is, you only need 3 sound pads along the length between each rib. This will stop the tinny drumming noise of the panels vibration.
It's effective on all flat metal panels, doors for example.
There is a good video using a cymbal and how one strip an inch wide completely deadening the noise.
 
I went for the cover everything in the sound deadening when I did mine. See the pic below of my roof. It definitly Made a difference.

IMG_9562.jpeg
 
I didn’t bother with insulation. Just put the headlining back in. But the seatbox and bulkhead have the original foam rubber matting over the top of the sound deadening.
 
dag019 said:
I didn’t bother with insulation. Just put the headlining back in. But the seatbox and bulkhead have the original foam rubber matting over the top of the sound deadening.
Click to expand...
I was getting a lot of condensation so wanted to insulate. It's helped quite a bit and I have stopped almost all water leaks getting in.
Doesn't help that both front door lower frames have rusted through letting water into the footwell when it rains.
 
Anaconda said:
I was getting a lot of condensation so wanted to insulate. It's helped quite a bit and I have stopped almost all water leaks getting in.
Doesn't help that both front door lower frames have rusted through letting water into the footwell when it rains.
Click to expand...
I have the issue of having the rear vents on my roof so if I park front up (as my drive is) my internal gutters fill with water! I basically gave up, I did the external gutters and when level it doesn’t leak.
 
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