Smoking Series 3

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C

CALLUM

New Member
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3
Hi,
Have just picked up a 1979 2.25 petrol Series 3 for my darling daughter. It has been standing for a while but she now runs great apart from the blue smoke which seems to come in erratic blasts.

When cold it smokes lightly but when warmed up she smokes like a trooper but strangely not all the time, as it will run clean on tickover for a few minutes then the blue fog arrives, back to clean for a couple of minutes and so on...

A compression test showed 170psi on cylinders 1-3 with 180PSI on No 4.

Plugs, points, condenser, dist cap, leads oil and filter all changed and tappets done with Ametech engine restore added to try to reduce the fog but it is still there.

Think it may be worn valves or guides, Any way to change these with the head still on? and any ideas how i can stop the fog would be great.

Landy also suffers from clutch judder on take off and whilst I can't give the thing a batter up the road until I clear the smoke issue and get her through an MOT any thoughts on whether this can be cured or is it likely to be oil on the plate with a new plate reqd. would be great.
Thanks
Callum
 
Cheers, you might be right, The outlet of the exhaust is caked in wet oil with a slight spray when the foot goes down which doesn't seem to be getting any better. Is this likely do burn off and why would it have been so full in the first place?

I havent checked the air filter, is this likely to cause this problem?
Thanks again
 
it get full of oil when you have a major injun problem, gubbed rings or sever valve stem seal leakage.. the problem gets sorted but the oil remains in the eggshaust till its burnt out which can take some time..

you can tell its this if it takes longer fer the smoke to appear each time you start from cold. the reason being that the eggshaust heats up from the front first, so the oil in the front of the pipe burns off soonest. then as it clears, you have to wait till the pipe has gotten hot furthur back, which means it takes longer fer the smoke to appear.

the only quick way is to change the exhaust, but make sure this is the problem before you start shelling out fer a new un.
 
course if its bin standing fer a while you might just have siezed rings which if yer gentle with the throttle fer a short while may sort its self out. or you could have perished valve stem seals
 
Cheers, will let it run for a while and see where we go.

Any thoughts on the compression readings or the juddery clutch
 
The symptoms are those of an old engine, BUT, as the smoke comes in BURSTS, that's a rather good sign, because it means when it ISN'T smoking the engine seems to be OK!

The compression pressures are good if not VERY good, so the rings are fine, and the valves are seating.

That is VERY good news, and probably means you are going to sort this with the head ON.

First, REMOVE the air filter complete, or take the hose right off it so the engine breathes clean fresh air. (It will be VERY noisy when you start her up).

Second take off the oil filler cap and breather pipe (if it has a breather pipe) and clean them by washing in a little tub of petrol. The breather MUST NOT be choked or pressure builds up inside the engine. Let the oil filler cap drip dry, and then put it back on. If it has a breather hose put that back on too AFTER checking that the nipple it fits to is clear.

Now, with no air filter involved, start it up (NOISY!) and take it for a run.

With any luck things may be improved.

Now clean the air filter (new oil if it's one of them or a new element) and try again.

If your engine has valve stem oil seals they CAN be changed without taking the head off (good trick!) but don't do that until you are as sure as can be you need to.

Just remember, the oil seems to be coming in small spurts, which should be able to be traced and stopped, and my Numero Uno Candidate is the breather.

CharlesY
 
good idea ,

oh! oh! oh! i have an betta idea.............
why not make an adjustable bit just under the rocker cover . kinda like a scew and locknut set up. that might help take up some of the wear.
 
slob said:
more yank snake oil,
where does one get cam lobe shims for a series landrover and where do yer put them?
Click to expand...

Cam lobe shims huh?

I think another kind comes in a small bottle. You paint it on the cam lobes and let it dry and then you have a high lift long period camshaft that gives you double the power with twice the economy.

That's the idea isn't it?

CharlesY
 
CharlesY said:
Cam lobe shims huh?

I think another kind comes in a small bottle. You paint it on the cam lobes and let it dry and then you have a high lift long period camshaft that gives you double the power with twice the economy.

That's the idea isn't it?

CharlesY
Click to expand...
fook nose! it came from that yank **** that some turnip posted.. apaprently the stuf has bin race proven by porsche at le mans...



and folk believe this?
 
enginerestore said:
FAQs/Common Problems
If you have worn valve guides and cam bushings and cam lobes we recommend removing the rocker cover (also called the valve cover) and pouring a few drops of RESTORE directly onto each moving component (you need to get the RESTORE onto the valve stems i.e. through the springs) and cam wear surfaces. An old plastic syringe works well (don't use it for anything else afterwards of course). This normally takes care of valve guide problems. RESTORE will not be able to rebuild a cam lobe that has been ground away by low oil levels though. You may need to add shims if the cam lobes have been ground away by a low oil situation, or change the camshaft. Also try some Engine Stop Leak, from any Auto Shop, into the oil to try and fatten up the rubber valve guide seals.
Click to expand...

:rolleyes: Oh yeah, silly me. Replace worn away metal by pouring a liquid onto the affected part. Bloody hell, I didn't realise it was so simple. Perhaps we can use the same magic to turn lead into gold and turn my **** into crude oil too! At $150 a barrel for the real thing, I'll be a f**king millionaire!
 
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