Sill replacement. And sliders

RKServicing · Jun 19, 2013

Been a busy little basterd this morning! Started to poke some holes then just went for it. Been onit since half 9....

The front half of passenger side ent to bad.

The back half not so great :O

Opened it up anyways on the front

Abit more chopping and messing resulted in this sliding straight in. Next up clean and weld, then weld on the sliders I have sat upstairs and get on with the other side!

danddandkids · Jun 19, 2013

hi ive been thinking of doing this to mine what size box section did you use for it and what thickness as it looks spot on thanks

RKServicing · Jun 19, 2013

100x60x3x1400 mm

danddandkids · Jun 19, 2013

thanks for the info so theres no reason not to do it now

noiseboymart · Jun 20, 2013

Looking good there. I just picked up 2 lenghts of that box section for 30 quid ready to do mine.Did you leave the inner sill in place or hack that off as well?

andrewblueboy · Jun 20, 2013

ive done mine and found it was easier to remove the inner lip.i would also recommned to remove the doors aswell. as less chance of the a and b posts moving.plus your not walkin around them all day. its diff worth changing the body mounts aswell,makes the job so much easier. when box is in place and put some new floor in place i puddle welded the floor so that the floor could be welded to box. dont forget to cap the ends of the box easier when off the car.

heres a couple pics still work in progress

RKServicing · Jun 20, 2013

I've cut some of the inner sill away. About half way up it. It's still fairly good in there as far as attached metal. So haven't had issues with the pillars moving. It's taken me about 5 hours per side start to finish. Will post some more pics up when i get a min.

noiseboymart · Jun 20, 2013

i take it your body mounts were in fairly good nick then

another forum · Jun 20, 2013

got my 100x60x3 box section in the shed-£40 for the pair from metal supermarket.

RKServicing · Jun 20, 2013

3 of the 4 body mounts are good. Just made the 4th passenger rear one.

Finished for the weekend. Got one side done bar Weldin the sliders on.

brettguise · Aug 7, 2013

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but the back of the box section the inner sill did you cut that to the top and not weld that just puddle weld through the floor? if so that's a lot easier to just weld the front and puddle the top and leave the back. Will that pass the mot? Also where you cut out the arches to get to the mounts did you have to patch that back up or can you leave that open?

andrewblueboy · Aug 7, 2013

Myself has I cut the innersill and outersill lip off,I welded a sheet from floor and puddle weld on top of box section.so much easier this way,and in the arches I welded the piece in and and also puddled that on to the end caps of the sills for extra strengh

andrewblueboy · Aug 7, 2013

O and yes it passed

brettguise · Aug 7, 2013

I spent all day yesterday cursing at the old sill lip trying to get it clean to seam to. It was all up and down and would have taken ages. Knowing this ill rip it all out offer the box up puddle it through the floor and seam around the door pillars. Do you know the body mounts if you have no back lip can you weld those onto the box section and manage to get the mounts over the outriggers and in place?

brettguise · Aug 7, 2013

brettguise said:
I spent all day yesterday cursing at the old sill lip trying to get it clean to seam to. It was all up and down and would have taken ages. Knowing this ill rip it all out offer the box up puddle it through the floor and seam around the door pillars. Do you know the body mounts if you have no back lip can you weld those onto the box section and manage to get the mounts over the outriggers and in place?

I ask that because I have new body mounts to attach, the old ones are off.

andrewblueboy · Aug 7, 2013

Well the way I did was cut out all the lip and bottom of rear arch to gain access then I placed mounts onto riggers and bolted and offered up the box and get fully in place then I tack weld a couple of welds to make sure they in right place. This is were the fun starts I removed the bolts and rubbers and then with a bit of time and patients it came out. Now knowing it came out. I seamed the mounts up, then it was fitting it up. Only put small tacks on tho and if u can't get it back off. Weld it in place rubbers will be fine just do one side at a time on each mounts to let it cool down

brettguise · Aug 7, 2013

andrewblueboy said:
Well the way I did was cut out all the lip and bottom of rear arch to gain access then I placed mounts onto riggers and bolted and offered up the box and get fully in place then I tack weld a couple of welds to make sure they in right place. This is were the fun starts I removed the bolts and rubbers and then with a bit of time and patients it came out. Now knowing it came out. I seamed the mounts up, then it was fitting it up. Only put small tacks on tho and if u can't get it back off. Weld it in place rubbers will be fine just do one side at a time on each mounts to let it cool down

Bit unclear on the wording can you just clarify. You bolted the mounts on so they were in place tacked to the bock and then removed the bolts and then lowered the box section off seamed the mounts to the box section and refitted or did you bolt the mounts on tack it to the box section in place then slowly seam around the body mounts whilst they were in place with rubbers on? I don't get why you unbolted the mounts when they were in place.

andrewblueboy · Aug 7, 2013

What I did was bolt the mounts to the riggers, then while they were inplace I offered up the box section. Then I tack weld them. so the box could be removed knowing that I could just seam weld them in place.like I said its very tight removing it and refitting the box with mounts in place.
If you find you can't remove it after tack weldin, then just weld it in place switchin between the mounts so giving time for each one to cool down in betwwen seam welding both.

DiscoPol · Aug 7, 2013

andrewblueboy said:
What I did was bolt the mounts to the riggers, then while they were inplace I offered up the box section. Then I tack weld them. so the box could be removed knowing that I could just seam weld them in place.like I said its very tight removing it and refitting the box with mounts in place.
If you find you can't remove it after tack weldin, then just weld it in place switchin between the mounts so giving time for each one to cool down in betwwen seam welding both.

+1

I seamed mine in whilst still attached to the outriggers, at least that way i know they are where they are supposed to be, i reckon if i ever need to get the body off its gonna be a grinder job anyway so what the hell.

brettguise · Aug 7, 2013

Ill probably tack them in place and see if I can get the box section out to seam weld it neatly. If not Its not the end of the world and ill do it whilst they are there as you said. Thanks for that advice.

Sill replacement. And sliders

Active Member

Member

Active Member

Member

Active Member

Active Member

Attachments

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

Active Member

New Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Similar threads