She's do it again EAS fault

J L Carr · Jul 22, 2014

HI Guy's, coming back from a day out EAS fault came up and the whole car went down to the bump stops, got back home after recovery and then tried to do a reset on the system. but it won't clear, keeps on coming back to EAS fault then I clear it all but nothing. Now going to change all the seals on the valve block, because I know I had a slow weep on the passenger front side and then see what happens. Lets hope its just that and not some thing much bigger. I will let you know how I get on.

tomcat59alan · Jul 22, 2014

J L Carr said:
HI Guy's, coming back from a day out EAS fault came up and the whole car went down to the bump stops, got back home after recovery and then tried to do a reset on the system. but it won't clear, keeps on coming back to EAS fault then I clear it all but nothing. Now going to change all the seals on the valve block, because I know I had a slow weep on the passenger front side and then see what happens. Lets hope its just that and not some thing much bigger. I will let you know how I get on.

How much bigger can it get? All that's left is compressor, air bags/lines, height sensors and EAS control unit. Check out Wammers guide in the "how to" section if you need help. He posted a firm on fleabay for the "o" ring kit, I used them myself but cannot remember the link. Do a search if you need it. Strip the block and clean it thoroughly, I used a ultra sonic bath but I believe a dish washer will do. Good luck.

Datatek · Jul 22, 2014

J L Carr said:
HI Guy's, coming back from a day out EAS fault came up and the whole car went down to the bump stops, got back home after recovery and then tried to do a reset on the system. but it won't clear, keeps on coming back to EAS fault then I clear it all but nothing. Now going to change all the seals on the valve block, because I know I had a slow weep on the passenger front side and then see what happens. Lets hope its just that and not some thing much bigger. I will let you know how I get on.

It would help to know what fault was logged.
If you know there is a leak, I would suspect the compressor has failed from overwork, they don't last long when feeding a leak.
Playing with the valve block on spec is not wise, you may just introduce another fault to complicate matters.

kevwill · Jul 22, 2014

Get diagnostics to find out the fault. Then you can fix the fault, its a fairly straightforward system. As datatek says, if you have suspected leak then you have almost certainly burnt out an overworked compressor. Will get expensive if you're just going to guess. No point in mucking about with the valve block and replacing pump only to find out you have a leaky airbag; you'll be back to square 1 and forking out for yet another pump.

Grrrrrr · Jul 22, 2014

Is it the ubiquitous "Invalid Fault Code"?

Datatek · Jul 23, 2014

Grrrrrr said:
Is it the ubiquitous "Invalid Fault Code"?

Vehicle has moved

J L Carr · Jul 23, 2014

Datatek said:
It would help to know what fault was logged.
If you know there is a leak, I would suspect the compressor has failed from overwork, they don't last long when feeding a leak.
Playing with the valve block on spec is not wise, you may just introduce another fault to complicate matters.

There was to many faults to list it was a page and a half on the diagnostic page and I new there was a slow leak on my RF as it would drop on that side after a couple of days and when it pumped it up it just kept on going up and down by about 2 inch's every time, the rest of the car was ok. tried to clear them but it still would not reset.

Datatek · Jul 23, 2014

J L Carr said:
There was to many faults to list it was a page and a half on the diagnostic page and I new there was a slow leak on my RF as it would drop on that side after a couple of days and when it pumped it up it just kept on going up and down by about 2 inch's every time, the rest of the car was ok. tried to clear them but it still would not reset.

I'm afraid that a list of faults like that simply means there is no diagnostic communication. I take it you are using the RSW free EAS software?

J L Carr · Jul 23, 2014

Datatek said:
I'm afraid that a list of faults like that simply means there is no diagnostic communication. I take it you are using the RSW free EAS software?

No I'm using the disc and cable I got from you.

Datatek · Jul 23, 2014

J L Carr said:
No I'm using the disc and cable I got from you.

That is the RSW software. You have to get a green "Good Idle" tab or it's reading nothing.

J L Carr · Jul 23, 2014

Datatek said:
That is the RSW software. You have to get a green "Good Idle" tab or it's reading nothing.

Hi yes got the green idle, but now the car is only pumping up on 1 side only, the LH side comes up but not the right. Switched to air lead round to see if it was an air bag but RH goes up ok. Moved them back and again only the LH side came up, she drop ok after taking the key out as its suppose to do. Its now go me baffled. All the faults have been cleared but got to late to keep on trying.

tomcat59alan · Jul 23, 2014

I would go for the valve block overhaul, look for white dust when you strip it. If you find some, especially in the exhaust filter then replace the air drier as well. Could it possibly be the driver pack?

J L Carr · Jul 23, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
I would go for the valve block overhaul, look for white dust when you strip it. If you find some, especially in the exhaust filter then replace the air drier as well. Could it possibly be the driver pack?

Just done all that, relaced all the seals and air drier bits as well. Thats whats bugging me.

J L Carr · Jul 23, 2014

Would it make a difference if i put the valve covers the wrong way round,( the bits with Dunlop on them ) would tht stop them working.

PPP38vouge · Jul 24, 2014

J L Carr said:
Would it make a difference if i put the valve covers the wrong way round,( the bits with Dunlop on them ) would tht stop them working.

OH YES,
They MUST be in original positions, Your symptoms do sound like you have put solenoids back incorrectly.

Datatek · Jul 24, 2014

J L Carr said:
Hi yes got the green idle, but now the car is only pumping up on 1 side only, the LH side comes up but not the right. Switched to air lead round to see if it was an air bag but RH goes up ok. Moved them back and again only the LH side came up, she drop ok after taking the key out as its suppose to do. Its now go me baffled. All the faults have been cleared but got to late to keep on trying.

Either you have put the coils on the wrong valves or the pipes in the wrong holes on the valve block.

tomcat59alan · Jul 24, 2014

Datatek said:
Either you have put the coils on the wrong valves or the pipes in the wrong holes on the valve block.

Or both :doh:

J L Carr · Jul 24, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
Or both :doh:

pipe work is correct as I took them out and labelled them, as to the valves I did them 1 at a time but I thought I'd put them back right till I had a look at the diagram, changed them over last night but ran out of time to try it. I'll be doing that very soon and let you know what happens.

J L Carr · Jul 29, 2014

As I'm having problems with the EAS system, how hard would it be to fit the back up valves on the lines to re pressurise the suspension and where would I get then from. Had a look on good old EBay but don't know if there the ones I'm after, Kurt has been in touch with me and sold me a new valve block so the should qure the problem, but I want these extra valves in place just in case. Any ideas would help.

kevwill · Jul 29, 2014

On ebay look for P38 Eas bypass valves -or under range rover air suspension. Schrader valves are the best. I keep a set in the gloves box.

She's do it again EAS fault

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