shattered wheel bearings
- Thread starter stagger77
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blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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Because you didn't introduce yourself.
Time warp karma
Time warp karma
nrgserv
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too tight?
not lubed?
cheap bearings?
not tight enough?
cv's changed before or after?
done by you or a garage?
full of pay and play mud?
pictures?
they don't usually shatter, seize and spin on the stub is more common due to lack of maintenance.
not lubed?
cheap bearings?
not tight enough?
cv's changed before or after?
done by you or a garage?
full of pay and play mud?
pictures?
they don't usually shatter, seize and spin on the stub is more common due to lack of maintenance.
No mud as road use only. Quality parts used.
Passenger cv changed by myself 6 month ago before bearing damage. Everything seemed fine up until a week ago. After a 2 hour drive it started "clunking" when turning full lock either way. Left it overnight. Next day all seemed fine. After another 2 hour drive home it started again. Once again left overnight then seemed fine next day for 1 hour driving then started again. Changed drivers side cv. Noticed bearing had quite a few chunks missing so changed them. By "chunks" I mean around 10 x 3 to 4 mm chunks. Rebuilt and test drove. All seemed fine for an hour then started again. So far I'm assuming passenger bearings will need changing. That's 1st thing on my to do list in the morning. Any idea on the cause of broken bearings?
I've noticed that's there's a bit of play in the steering. By that I mean I can move the wheel an inch or two left to right when jacked up before steering starts. Can this cause bearing damage?
Also why does it seem fine for an hour or so before "clunking " noise starts?
Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Passenger cv changed by myself 6 month ago before bearing damage. Everything seemed fine up until a week ago. After a 2 hour drive it started "clunking" when turning full lock either way. Left it overnight. Next day all seemed fine. After another 2 hour drive home it started again. Once again left overnight then seemed fine next day for 1 hour driving then started again. Changed drivers side cv. Noticed bearing had quite a few chunks missing so changed them. By "chunks" I mean around 10 x 3 to 4 mm chunks. Rebuilt and test drove. All seemed fine for an hour then started again. So far I'm assuming passenger bearings will need changing. That's 1st thing on my to do list in the morning. Any idea on the cause of broken bearings?
I've noticed that's there's a bit of play in the steering. By that I mean I can move the wheel an inch or two left to right when jacked up before steering starts. Can this cause bearing damage?
Also why does it seem fine for an hour or so before "clunking " noise starts?
Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
haigy
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Did you change the race when bearings were changed it might let the bearing move around to much. Your clunk after an hour may be down to it getting warm after being cold.
Is your disco in diff lock as that will cause a clunk when turning
Is your disco in diff lock as that will cause a clunk when turning
DiscoPol
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How many land rover wheel bearings have you changed? I'm only asking as it is a bit of a learning curve from normal cars to Landies, even if you have done plenty of other motors before. When I first started to work on mine it ate bearings, but I now realise I was the problem not the landy. All I can suggest is buy the best you can afford and read up on how to set the float and watch as many YouTube vids as you can. I am not saying it's a black art but it certainly gets easier, quicker and better the more you do.
My first bearing change on a landy. Changed race aswell. Think I may have over tightened if possible?
Just wondered if over tightened why did it go in the first place? I was driving for over 6 month daily with no problems. Could the passenger cv be the cause of the initial bearing failure?
Cheers for help so far.
Just wondered if over tightened why did it go in the first place? I was driving for over 6 month daily with no problems. Could the passenger cv be the cause of the initial bearing failure?
Cheers for help so far.
TheMunster
Active Member
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- 357
Did you pack the bearings out properly? Only things that will make a bearing fail like that is over heating, either too tight, not enough grease, dirt or something in the bearing or mixture off the lot. Search on YouTube for Land Rover toolbox videos, guys got some great vids and a couple all about wheel bearings 
edit - use branded Timken bearings if you're not already
edit - use branded Timken bearings if you're not already
Last edited:
waldershelf
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For a bearing to fail in the way you describe I reckon you have over-tightened them. As others have said fitting the bearings is easy when you know how, get it wrong and they fail.
T26HOM
Active Member
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Timken website has a good page displaying pictures of bearing wear and damage and possible causes. Compare to the pics on site it may give an idea as to what caused the problem.
nrgserv
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as already said, possibly too tight.
interested to know where your chunks are missing from, the internal raceway or the edge of raceway? if internal would say lack of grease or over tightened, if on an edge then possibly faulty installation or removal.
your full lock clunking could possibly be the cv centralising itself, especially if the shims are missing from under the quarter shaft circlip at the driveflange.
don't rule out worn steering bushes or suspension bushes for full lock clunking either.
appreciate there's a lot of possibles here, but that's internet diagnostics for ya!
as stated in my first thread post, you need to give us as much info as possible to enable discussion, your first post left you open for abuse! some good posts in this thread, welcome to lz, and best of luck sorting it!
interested to know where your chunks are missing from, the internal raceway or the edge of raceway? if internal would say lack of grease or over tightened, if on an edge then possibly faulty installation or removal.
your full lock clunking could possibly be the cv centralising itself, especially if the shims are missing from under the quarter shaft circlip at the driveflange.
don't rule out worn steering bushes or suspension bushes for full lock clunking either.
appreciate there's a lot of possibles here, but that's internet diagnostics for ya!
as stated in my first thread post, you need to give us as much info as possible to enable discussion, your first post left you open for abuse! some good posts in this thread, welcome to lz, and best of luck sorting it!
