Service Jobs, and K&N Filters

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Gofish

Gofish

New Member
Posts
172
Location
Cornwall, near Padstow
Now that I have my new truck ( 1986 2.5n/a 90 Hard Top) I want to get around to changing oils and filters.

Not having owned a Landy before.

What oils need changing?

Is it right that the gearbox takes automatic gear oils?

Do I need to do anything to the diffs?

Is it worth putting in a K&N Air Filter?

What other jobs would you do, if you had just brought a Landy?

As soon as it warms up, and dryer.. I'm gonna drench the bugger in Waxoil too.

The chassis is mint... with no welding done!

I appologise for all the questions... But I'm a dumbass to Landy's and 4x4's in general.:rolleyes:

Thanks

Marc:)
 
Gofish said:
Now that I have my new truck ( 1986 2.5n/a 90 Hard Top) I want to get around to changing oils and filters.

Not having owned a Landy before.

What oils need changing?
Click to expand...

If it's got a service history with it - stick to it. Doesn't mean you have to get it serviced by a main dealer or anything daft, but the schedule of what needs doing will be there. 99.9% of it is DIYable.

Gofish said:
Is it right that the gearbox takes automatic gear oils?
Click to expand...

Yep - ATF.

Gofish said:
Do I need to do anything to the diffs?
Click to expand...

If the servicing isn't up to date, change the axle, gearbox and transfer box oils before you do too many miles - you've no idea what abuse the previous owner gave it.

Gofish said:
Is it worth putting in a K&N Air Filter?
Click to expand...

No, it'll still be slow and the stock filter does a great job of keeping the dust and crap out.

Gofish said:
What other jobs would you do, if you had just brought a Landy?
Click to expand...

Not just a landy, any car, have a bloody good look at all the wheels and tyres - fix anything that's wrong there. At the same time, check the brake pads front and rear (will probably be shoes on the back of yours) check the run out on the front discs. Check the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs - top up the clutch if it's low, but check the whole of the braking system if the brae fluid is low and the front pads aren't! (can't stress that bit highly enough!) If the fluid looks particularly dark in the brakes reservoir, change the brake fluid (shouldn't take more than about 30 mins to do that if you've got an assistant)

Simple really... tyres stick the car to the road (or off road) anything wrong there and you're risking your own life as well as other road users. Likewise brakes - don't mess with 'em, do it properly yerself or get someone you can sue to do them for you ;)

Cheers,
 
Thanks Adz.

Very helpfull.

It's not got any service history, on paper anyway ( though the cam belt was changed recently).

Where can I get hold of a service shedule?

Thanks
 
If you do need work doing mate find an independant land rover specialst as it's a lot cheaper. One near me charges £37.50 an hour rather than the main dealers which can be 3 times that.
 
Gofish said:
( though the cam belt was changed recently).
Click to expand...

If the previous owner told you that but you don't have the receipt for the work they had done, assume that it wasn't done - expensive way to do it maybe, but nothing like as expensive as a failed cam belt ;)

There's a pretty comprehensive service schedule in the front of the Haynes manual - £18 from any Halfords.


Cheers,
 
dont bother with a dealer, indi or not. you can get all your filters real cheap (£10) from paddocks -

then get yourself a 5litre tub of ATF (gearbox) 5-10l of EP90 (transfer box/axles) and a tub of good engine oil.

you could change the lot in a day providing you get no problems. dont buy a drain plug spanner, use a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar.

engine oil/axles evey 6000 miles or once a year.
gearbox/trany box every 24000 i think. but if you do much offroad maybe do it more regular.

it may look more expensive from the offset, but your surplus oil supply will last you longer and in the long run cost less.

if you dont have any service history i recommend changing it all over the coming weeks/months. atleast you know where you stand. keep a diary of when you service, change or upgrade things. that way, when the times come to pass it on, you have built your own service history. its also a good reference.

other things to check apart from those mentioned are your swivel pin levels. drain and fill with grease

STC3435 Swivel grease - one shot - front axle to KA930455

one per swivel.

another cheap thing to change for piece of mind is your thermostat. less than a fiver, it can detroy your engine if you get it wrong. also a qucik job.

haynes manuals arnt the best, but they are a good reference and have some clear diagrams/pics which have helped me no end. a combination of the manual and this site and you will be fine. look on ebay for cheap manuals.

G
 
Brilliant.......

Cheers Griffdowg.

Just what I wanted.

I'm ordering the stuff, and on the case.

I've heard a good few reviews concerning Difflock's oils , and lubes - well priced too.

has anybody else used them?

Thanks again for the great advice .

So far my new landy is running well.... I want to keep it that way;)

Being the dumbass I am.. errr, where are the swivel pins?:rolleyes:
 
Just looking for a thermosat, on Paddocks.

There are two types for the 2.5 N/A

74 degree & 82 degree

Which should I go for - it doe's say the 74 degree is optional.

What's the difference?

Thanks
 
they are on the front axle behind your brake disks. you can fill em with ep90 or grease. if your seals are knackered... like mine, then use grease cos it seeps out slower.

your looking for the big chrome ball. when you turn your wheels the ball moves around. inside the casing is filled with that grease/oil. if your levels are low or oil is **** it will pit the chrome ball.

whilst this ball isnt too expensive (£50?) it would cost you a fortune if you got a garage to do it as its around 3hrs work because getting to it is an arse. half shafts, stub axles, hub, brakes all have to come off 1st, just to reach the swivel housing.

i was going to try it myself, but its a little out of my league at the moment. so im just going to keep topping the grease up.

check this page for axle/diff procedures:

Land Rover Forum

there are a few good links off them too.

G
 
the termo cuts in at diff operating temps. it doesnt make a huge difference. cant remember why you would want a lower temp one. think it may be if your doing alot of offroad. i would hang fire on that one until someone pops along. i think 82. but i would check with someone else first.

when you do change the thermo, your likely to snap the 3 bolts holding it in. so go easy, and use lots of lube.

flush the radiator while your there and renew the coolant.

G
 
I agree an the filter. I have K&N on my rigs and if they did not cost so much I would have throughn them long ago. They are a pain to clean, dry out and re-oil. Much easier to through out and put new one on.
 
Yes, they are a pain to clean, dry out and re-oil. The real problem is that they are supposed to filter the air and they don't. Even if you re-oil them properly as I did. If you value your rigs fit ordinary old paper filters as I do now, having learnt my lesson the hard way. As I always said, this is how you clean a K&N filter:
1) remove filter
2) wash in petrol or paraffin
3) place on drive
4) light with match
5) fit something which actually filters the air
 
Main gearbox oil change on mine is every 12k miles - but mines's a 200 tdi not the n/a.
 
JimAttrill said:
Yes, they are a pain to clean, dry out and re-oil. The real problem is that they are supposed to filter the air and they don't. Even if you re-oil them properly as I did. If you value your rigs fit ordinary old paper filters as I do now, having learnt my lesson the hard way. As I always said, this is how you clean a K&N filter:
1) remove filter
2) wash in petrol or paraffin
3) place on drive
4) light with match
5) fit something which actually filters the air
Click to expand...
sounds about right.. I will have to try your method next cleaning.
 
Paper filter it is then... I have used one once before in a petrol car, and thought they were crap then !!!!!!



What about Difflock oils, folks are saying good things about the stuff.

I'm after a good quailty
15/50 oil for my 2.5 N/A
 
Bradj999 said:
Ok Jim equivalent of £17.85 where would that be? I'm intrigued
Click to expand...

Johannesburg, South Africa. We are actually a very small operation with one owner/mechanic, one mechanic, one sweeper and me. I am sometimes a sort of spares getter, sometimes a mechanic depending on the jobs. I do lots of tdi cambelts for instance. For a 300tdi cambelt the charge is about 160 quid in total. That should give you an idea. The local stealer charges 27 quid an hour though stuff-ups are extra :p

I like working where I do because we are out in the country - I have to do a few miles on sand roads to get there. Birds singing etc no people and traffic, but very hot the last couple of weeks. As the garage has an IBR tin roof it gets like an oven. Well over 30c the last few days. At lunchtime I go outside and sit in my Defender with the aircon on, not that it helps much.
 
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