series III cutting out.

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stylieee

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8
i just bought a 1980 lwb sIII (4 cyl petrol) yesterday. drove it home ok, but after about 35minutes of driving today it started dieing on me.
its fine when idleing, but when you open the throttle it starts to strugle then cuts out.

any ideas anyone?
 
Hello stylieee,
I dont think its a huge problem. I had a similar thing with mine. I changed the ignition coil and the condenser and all was fine. Mine would tick over ok but when I put the engine under load it spat, farted and died. Check that the ignition coil isn't to warm after a few minutes running.

Regards WP.
 
slacken the clamp and turn the dizzy anti clockwise then turn it slowly clockwise until the ngine just starts to pick up speed. but don't fergit to check the points are ok . you need to make sure the gap is as it should be. have you got a haynes manuel yet??
 
Before you go adjusting settings get a new fuel filter they cheep and it sounds like fuel starvation to me. No offence guys but if he goes playing with dizzy he may not get it back easy. A fuel filter is cheep and it will need on....
 
just been looking at coils and condensors and im a bit confused over what engine suffix mine is (C, or D onwards), how do i tell? bit of a noob question im sure so sorry.
 
Miniman said:
Before you go adjusting settings get a new fuel filter they cheep and it sounds like fuel starvation to me. No offence guys but if he goes playing with dizzy he may not get it back easy. A fuel filter is cheep and it will need on....
and what if all it needs is the ign timing done..five minute job against driving to halfrauds and back to get filter then 20mins to fit the thing once he finds it. if it has one.i still thing he needs to check the easy, no money thngs first.then atleast he can discount them from the list of possible causes.
 
But he also notes he new to landys. What a filter cost 2.50. It will not harm it to do the filter. Most petrols do exactly the same when they starved of fuel....ok leave you to it.:)
 
Call me a dozy bugger, but where is the fuel filter on a petrol S3? I thought that there was just a sediment bowl! I'm servicing mine next weekend so if there is one I'll need to renew it.
 
they don't come with one except for wot you said and a strainer type thingy in the tank. but that don't mean that at sometime in its life no one has fitted one which is why i said if he can find it.
 
I'd leave the dizzy. you could open a whole can of worms there and spend a lot of time finding the worms and putting them back.

1980 series 3. I think it could be a small hole in the diaphram of the emission control system. This bit of apparatus is not covered by the Haynes manual.

The diaphram lives in a little house near the carb. It is connected to the carb by a bit of rubber hose and the valve rocker cover by another bit of rubber hose. What often happens is, a hole appears in the rubber diaphram. Air leaks in, dilutes fuel/air mix and when you try to accelerate this air weakens the mixture, at the precise moment it needs to be richened.

It is about 3 inches diameter with some wire clips on the top. Undo clips, take top off and lift out rubber. See if it has a hole in it - you need to be invery good daylight for this.

The symptoms are very similar to ignition problems,distributer, plugs, fuel filter etc.

Do check the emision control. Its a crap system. I stripped it off and put a plug in the hole left in inlet manifold. First time I'd bought a part for motor vehicle from a plumbers merchants!

This is all a bit tricky to describe without a diagram.

I've been to hell and back for 12 months - new dizzy, points, condenser etc. New carb ages ago. Turned out to be this rubber diaphram.

I agree with in line fuel filter. They cost nothing and are easy to fit.
 
Slob will probably tell me off for being too tekki and wordy - but checking this diaphram will save you loads of time, cash and worry.
 
not atall matey after years of dealing with series engines i always check the easy bits first. like the dizzy, five minutes and you either found the fault or eliminated the ign from the list of possible causes.then you can check your other bits , best to do it some sort of order and if you find checking diaphrams first is the best way for you then go for it.
i prefer ign, fuel, werid **** in that order
 
Have to agree. I remember with the old 24v FFR's the VM's (Vehicle Mechanics) first action was always to check the ignition system. this solved way more than half with most of the rest being fuel probs. Wierd probs like all wierd probs generally left everyone scratching their heads
 
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