Series 3 timing chain

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Border Terrier

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Hi all,
Can anyone help with a query i have?
Own a 1978 Series 3 Diesel, and wanted to change the timimg chain. Ordered a new one from Paddocks. Part number ETC4499. Compared the new one against the old one and guess what? The new one is longer??
Is this right or am i missing something. Any advice would be greatly recieved.

Cheers
 
I suggest you phone Paddocks - ETC4499 should be the right part number. Strangely, the petrol engine has a different part number......
 
there are two types of chain not diesel petrol but tensioner is different longer chain goes with sprocket type tentioner shorter with later pad type as fitted to 2.5 petrol often fitted
 
Ah, yes - there's two part numbers for the petrol. ETC5191 and 504375. The chain width and pitch is presumably the same so i suggest you count the number of links.
 
I get my duplex Renolds chain direct from Bearing Services. It's the best you can get!

I also get all my Timken bearings from there!

... And they are extremely helpful!

Just a thought.
 
I have the whole front wing, radiator etc etc off and I am replacing water pump which was weeping and timing/master cylinder etc... Is there anything else worth doing ? Its sat idle for 10 years..... With the timing chain I thought there was something else worth doing ? I thought tensioner bearings but looking the tensioner just looks like a rubber vibration pad ?
 
Always a lot worth doing, start by flushing the heater matrix and radiator. Clean up all the electrical connections and earths. Change the thermostat and hoses, just routine service items really.
 
ER1C said:
I have the whole front wing, radiator etc etc off and I am replacing water pump which was weeping and timing/master cylinder etc... Is there anything else worth doing ? Its sat idle for 10 years..... With the timing chain I thought there was something else worth doing ? I thought tensioner bearings but looking the tensioner just looks like a rubber vibration pad ?
Click to expand...

the rubber pad is the chain guide to stop chain flapping it should be adjusted so its as near as possible touching chain, tensioner is on the other side and has no bearing
 
Thanks Chaps... Is there a nice way to get the camshaft nut off the front ? The pig tailed one ? I had figured on making a tool as per TDI but I see there are no holes to bolt a tool too... Can I get away doing this whole job with normal tools ? Tensioning the belt ?
 
crank pulley bolt , air or battery gun is best as you dont need to stop pulley rotating ,a spanner and large hammer , put it in gear and foot on the brake ,or wedge flywheel
 
Unless it is timed incorrectly there is no need to remove the camshaft sprocket. Mark it up in case things go wrong by all means but all I do is change the chain without moving anything on the engine. Do a final check to EP mark with a dial gauge on number 1 exhaust. I chalk the camshaft pulley, mark EP position when valve fully open then using the dial gauge go past say 0.25mm (0.010") and mark the pulley again. Turn engine over fully until the dial gauge reads 0.25 before the EP mark mark the pulley and you should have even distance from the middle (first) mark. This will ensure the correct position on the cam. Hope that makes sense, easier to do than explain......
 
Cheers, I am changing it that's all So I hope I don't have to worry about most of what you have said :).. I am trying to find the tensioner piston as I was advised to change that.. I am changing the chain as I think its stretched and I also have blue smoke but I cant adjust the Injector timing enough. Its sat idle for years so I think neglected.

With this in mind will the timing be better with a new chain, or will the stretch which has already occurred just be duplicated by a new chain going on with the same timing marks ?

I am thinking

A. New chain fixes issue
B. New chain allows me to rotate injection pump to solve issue
C. New chain does nothing (i.e some other issue)
 
New chain with correct timing will realign the pump injection to piston position so should get rid of smoke issue
 
you should really fit new chain on when engines it timed correctly and with a diesel its a complicated procedure if not done right engine will allways smoke, as chain wears cam becomes retarded,in that it rotates very slightly anti clockwise as chain becomes longer, if you were to just swap chains youd need to ensure that cam rotated clockwise slightly (less than a tooth)to fit chain cam sprocket has or should hve 6 key ways which are used to make it possible to move a 1/6 of a sprocket tooth as one full tooth is not accurate enough for diesel timing as it is with petrol
 
Can you borrow a diesel timing tool ? Makes things a bit easier. Snailer over on OLLR has one that he is willing to loan out with a suitable deposit.
 
OLLR ?

I guess if I do the chain then try and adjust the injection timing and If that doesn't work borrow a timing tool...Is timing something which can be done without taking it all apart again ?
 
Thanks for your replies james... So I understand correctly if the timing was spot on and the chain stretched... its not just a case of a new chain as something else will have moved (the cam) ? Having taken the whole front off and radiator out I think you could probably get the front cover off with only the fan and water pump off in future ?
 
it is chain and sprockets that will have worn so cams retarded, you need to ensure that its correct when refitting not just guessing
 
If its just chain and sprockets that's a simply swap out.. I am already doing the chain can I not keep everything in place and do the sprocket ?
jamesmartin said:
it is chain and sprockets that will have worn so cams retarded, you need to ensure that its correct when refitting not just guessing
Click to expand...
 
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