Series 3 oil seals

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ronsealdeath

ronsealdeath

Sagging Member
Posts
1,851
Location
Swansea, Wales
Hi there, in view of my land rover Series 3 peeing oil onto the driveway from various sources (my wife is not happy :rolleyes:), I need to get in and change some oil seals. The leaking sump drain plug, gearbox drain plug and diff plugs I guess can be sorted with some new copper washers and a bit of gasket seal? Its the front pinion oil seal and rear halfshaft seal that I need help on.

My car is a 1982 S3 petrol. Can anyone tell me if FRC4586G is the correct part for the front axle pinion seal? I can't seem to work it out! Also does anyone know what part number I need for the rear halfshaft oil seal (drivers side)? I have gear oil pooling at the bottom of the wheel. Funny that its the only wheel with no rust on :D

I'll clear the axle breathers first but it still leaks when stationary for a week so I guess its just seals gone bad? At the moment I have two drip trays under the car at all times! I realise it will leak some oil but at the moment its ridiculous!

Cheers
Al
 
On this subject of oil leaks, did they leak a dribble of oil from new from the rear main seal? I kind of assume that they did given the plug hole in the fly wheel casing. My rear main seal was replaced earlier this year and after a long run I get no more than say 3 possibly 4 drips when standing over the next couple of days.
 
The plug in the flywheel casing is a drain plug to use after the vehicle has been wading this lets any water ingress out of the clutch. I changed my front and rear crank seals a year ago and all was well for 7 or 8 months they now **** out again. You guessed it onto the sheet of plywood, its the only way!
 
Hmm, mines the 5mb engine with certainly what appears to me to be a more substantial rear main seal arrangement. I had hope it would be cured for a few years! As it is, its not a problem given it really is no more than a couple or 3 drips after a good run, just like things right really! :rolleyes::confused:
 
divies "drain plug" is actually a "wading plug", it's only supposed to be fitted when your likely to be going through water/silt etc' and not left in all the time

if water etc' is getting into the flywheel housing even with the wading plug fitted then you have covers or seals missing from either your bellhousing or flywheel housing
 
The plywood may be required. I got the old seal out and it was in a metal case? My new one is just a rubber/plastic disc with a dished section and spring retainer on the back. V different to the old seal, have i removed the old seal or some seal carrier or similar? I put the new one in and had trouble driving it in flush, its a bit wonky! Very poor effort really but i had nothing to drive it home with like a large socket. I refitted theflange and torqued to 85lbs and have a leak. I guess i botched the fitting or the old seal's metal housing should have gone back in?
Haynes manual shows a retainer thing, thats not present. Do i just need to buy a new seal and something to drive it home neat? Or just a sheet of ply ; )
 
Hello again, i replaced my rear halfshaft oil seal yesterday but wanted to check a couple of things;
I tightened the big nut against the bearing then slackened a quarter turn for end float, is this about right?
The book mentioned a lock tab to be folded over, is this the thin washer and if so where does it fold!
Thanks in advance
 
not really , lock nut up to seat bearings ,backoff nut till theres play and just remove it by tigthening nut using box spanner or socket by hand till all free play is just eliminated then fit washer and then the other nut which you fully tighten ,knock tab washer so that it covers one flat on both nuts opposite each other is best
 
James means that you should fit one nut, then adjust the bearing "feel" (not too tight not too slack) then fit the tab washer, then fit the second nut and tighten down

recheck the bearing "feel" and if necessary re-adjust the nuts, repeat until happy that any play is set to "just a little"

now you set the tab washer by bending the first edge down toward the inner nut and then the opposite side of the washer "up" over the edge of the outer nut

getting the "feel/play" on the bearings will be a little fiddley your first time or two and may be a little frustrating but stick with it and you'll get there
 
fit one nut and adjust it till free plays just removed, you can feel it ,so there no play or preload ,then fit washer and other nut
 
Great thanks very much for the advice all, it's stopped leaking oil anyway :D for now :rolleyes:
What confused me was that i had a nut, then a shim type washer in thick steel, then the lock tab in thin metal then the other nut. The haynes doesn't shownthe thick shim piece, has this been put back in the wrong place? It looks like it should maybe sit against the outer bearing?
 
Last edited:
ronsealdeath said:
Great thanks very much for the advice all, it's stopped leaking oil anyway :D for now :rolleyes:
What confused me was that i had a nut, then a shim type washer in thick steel, then the lock tab in thin metal then the other nut. The haynes doesn't shownthe thick shim piece, has this been put back in the wrong place? It looks like it should maybe sit against the outer bearing?
Click to expand...
:eek:thick washer does go first against bearing then nut then tab washer then other nut
 
Cheers all, the PO put the nut against the bearing then the thick washer!
Yes i believe the best way to stop the landy leaking oil is just to drain it all out ; )
 
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