series 3 1983 2.25 still loosing power

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M

[email protected]

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27
Location
Milton Keynes
O.K.
New Webber carb. professionally checked. Timing professionally checked. New fuel pump. Runs sweetly. Get to about 55 m.p.h. and engine dies. Picks up again. Runs nicley at lower revs.
  • Capacitor on distributor not very tight...but securing screw thread stripped. Would this cause it to die at higher speed?
  • Manual looks like there is a bleed screw on distributor base. Or is that on diesels only? I can`t find one on mine (Ducellier).
  • A previous thread on a similar issue suggested flakes blocking the fuel pipe where it lifts petrol from the tank. Its about at 1/4 full. Is this a metal pipe? If so can it be lifted and a filter added?
  • Still leaking oil from petrol pump housing. I can`t get good access to the two nuts. I have tried to take the back plate off. The 6 nuts undo but the plate won`t budge. Is it case of whacking it with a drift, or are there other bolts to undo also?
Sorry guys. lots of questions here but my bank balance is draining quicker than my oil level (I reckon I have spent nearly 3 grand on it this year!)

Old bloke
 
£3K and it's still broken ! - you could have had my fully sorted S3 for half that ish

what's the condition of the fuel lines ? - could be air getting drawn into the fuel system
 
it is possible to get access to those two bolts holding you fuel pump on, mine was leaking oil in the same place but with alot of patience and swearing its possible to get the whole pump on and off again.... i found it easier attacking it from below, access is crap but possible!
 
[email protected] said:
  • Still leaking oil from petrol pump housing. I can`t get good access to the two nuts. I have tried to take the back plate off. The 6 nuts undo but the plate won`t budge. Is it case of whacking it with a drift, or are there other bolts to undo also?
Click to expand...

there's only 2 bolts holding the fuel pump on, and it's usually a 5 minute job to change

where are these 6 nuts your trying to get undone ?

piccies we like piccies
 
[email protected] said:
O.K.
New Webber carb. professionally checked. Timing professionally checked. New fuel pump. Runs sweetly. Get to about 55 m.p.h. and engine dies. Picks up again. Runs nicley at lower revs.
  • Capacitor on distributor not very tight...but securing screw thread stripped. Would this cause it to die at higher speed? - doubt it but try a drop of solder on it just in case
  • Manual looks like there is a bleed screw on distributor base. Or is that on diesels only? I can`t find one on mine (Ducellier). you sure your not looking at the advance/retard adjuster ?
  • A previous thread on a similar issue suggested flakes blocking the fuel pipe where it lifts petrol from the tank. Its about at 1/4 full. Is this a metal pipe? If so can it be lifted and a filter added? - drain the tank and then flush it - or rig up a temp fuel can (couple of litres will do) and go for a drive, this will help isolate the fuel lines and tank
  • Still leaking oil from petrol pump housing. I can`t get good access to the two nuts. I have tried to take the back plate off. The 6 nuts undo but the plate won`t budge. Is it case of whacking it with a drift, or are there other bolts to undo also? as long as it's just oil leaking this isnt going to affect your fueling, but it is a very simple job to replace the gasket (which i assume would have been done when the new pump was fitted?)
Sorry guys. lots of questions here but my bank balance is draining quicker than my oil level (I reckon I have spent nearly 3 grand on it this year!)

Old bloke
Click to expand...
.
 
How about a dodgy lift pump...? Just had a new one fitted and had to have it replaced because of a similar prob...
 
Got me confused there....! Yeh I had one from bearmach and it did the same, had to get the 'new' one replaced....!
 
[email protected] said:
Runs sweetly. Get to about 55 m.p.h. and engine dies. Picks up again. Runs nicley at lower revs.
Click to expand...

Wot does it stop completely at 50mph and you then have to wait for a bit before it starts again or it just holds back at 50mph ?

Caus if it stopped and wont start for 2 / 3 mins then its likely to be icing on the carb.
If the carb is icing have a look at the flap between the exhaust and inlet manifolds.
 
mine series 2a 1961 had a habit of doing this, after going for about 10mins at about 65mph - 70mph it would seem to suddenly die and start to cough and splutter, i would ease off and it would run fine again. i just chaged my carb and that has sorted it. the problem was with the float level in the old carb, basicly the carb would be emptying it self quicker than the fule pump could fill it.
 
reminds me of the Dibnah trip to Kent (thank yu Si) - replaced carb and now no probs. So i reckon its carb related too. more than likely float level.
 
clivees said:
Caus if it stopped and wont start for 2 / 3 mins then its likely to be icing on the carb.
If the carb is icing have a look at the flap between the exhaust and inlet manifolds.
Click to expand...

Is the cowl in place round the fan?
 
Two suggestions for this, and I bet it's one of them.

Carb icing up. It drops bits of ice inside and it pings off the valves.
Lead the air inlet to a warmer place, and it may help.

This will usually happen worst on cold days, with a touch of mist about, often early evenings. Water vapour in the air freezes out on the venturi inside the airstream in the the carb because the sudden reduction in pressure at that point also reduces the temperature, often by enough to cause ice to form and that builds up enough to choke the engine as you describe. As soon as you slow down, the effect stops, the ice melts and disappears!

Fuel starvation ... all the usual causes.

Let us know what you find was the cause

CharlesY
 
Wow,

I `m staggered by the number of replies. Thanks guys. Clearly I am not on my own.

Carb. icing up. Strangley I have noticed a disclouration around the carb adapter plate when first started. I have fitted a mushroom snorkel. Am I better reverting to the old oil bath then?

I will try and post some pics.

Nonetheless does the new fuel pump need bleeding?

I think Yannis was right. The old Zenith float was set too high. The green Landy bible states to put the top of the flaot at 30 mm above the base of the carb, which meant me bending it up quite a bit. I think that was duff gen. Despite a service kit and new gaskets there was a leak of petrol from the float chamber. Anyway I have now fiited a new Webber.

Good call from Sean. I have a 2 gallon jerry can and will run the pipe into there to test.

I have put a new gasket on the fuel pump. Its just the access to the two nuts thats the problem. The 6 bolts I am on about are the ones behind the fuel pump, holding the plate to the engine block.

Yeah, did I really spend all that money? Well the kids shoes can always be glued back together for another few months. Did`nt want a wide screen telly anyway, and whats wrong with my old shell suit?

Old Bloke
 
[email protected] said:
Wow,

I `m staggered by the number of replies. Thanks guys. Clearly I am not on my own.

Carb. icing up. Strangley I have noticed a disclouration around the carb adapter plate when first started. I have fitted a mushroom snorkel. Am I better reverting to the old oil bath then?

Old Bloke
Click to expand...

Ahhh........ so the carb is drawing cold damp air from the outside huh?

Worst case scenario for freezing!

Remember in the olden days, and not THAT long ago, cars with carbs almost all had a flap that worked all by itself .... when the engine was cold the flap moved one way and all air to the carb was drawn from a tin can fitted round the exhaust, which heats up in seconds from a cold start.

Once the engine bay warmed up, the flap would move over the other way and start blending in colder air NOT from the heated tin can on the exhaust pipe.

I suggest in winter weather you will have to suffer the freezing problem unless you arrange a warm air pickup for the air inlet.

Apart from any other consideration, the engine will probably run better and use a little less fuel because fuel atomisation and vaprisation will be more thorough.

Diesels always want the coldest densest air they can get - not so with gasoline engines with carburettors especially in cold damp weather.

CharlesY
 
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