Second row window glass refit horror

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Kennymac

Active Member
Posts
118
Location
Edinburgh
Evenin!

Got my new second row door, but can't get the main glass back in. Everything is off, (winder, winder plate handles etc.) I'm sitting with a bare door (apart from the window runners etc. ) and I can't work out how the glass goes back. And before someone says "The same way it came out" that won't work as it involed a grinder!

Any help appreciated!
cheers
K
 
Panic over - Just used brute force. I had no idea that these windows could bend! I took off the screws that held the bottom of the runners on and with a bit of effort and copperslip it slide up. Hurrah!
K:D
 
Got the door from "the nice lady Diane"! (Landefender 4x4 parts) - It was fine, a bit pricey though, but well made and all the drilling/ bolt holes/positioning etc. were spot on. It took around 4 hours to do, but I reckon when I do the other side it'll be a damn site quicker. The last thing I'll have to do some slight door/striker plate adjustment, but apart from that, it's done. Need to order up some of the internal panel door fixings and an external seal (between the window and the car door) but that's all.

The worst bit as always was having to drill out every screw (esp. the ones holding in the window runner at the sides and above) they were all rusted to buggery. The window partition was a piece of cake, it all came out in a oner, and went back in the same way. It did have a surprising amount of screws in it. Some parts never made it back on (a strange plastic curved thing at the bottom of the door that appeared to be masticked in and a small plastic box thing which apparently did nowt). I've got them incase it turns out they are essential to the operation of the vehicle!

Cheers
K
 
Will post a picture on Sunday. The door comes powder coated matt black, which is ok for the moment, as my landy is black-ish, if you exclude the rust.... :( As for spraying it, I did the whole landy myself, and will likely respray again during the summer. Only took an afternoon with a £60 compressor and single pack paint. It took a day to prep (you spay the creases with aluminium acid etcher -£10 from halfords) and then primed before going black. This year am going to take of the tub cappings (just grind them off) as they drip rust down the side of the rear on both sides. The rear cross member will need to be done also. You know what it's like with landys, never ending!

cheers
K
 
Hi,

here's a couple of pictures of the new door. It is expensive, but the doors I looked at were dreadful, and all of them needed welding in some shape or form, and all of them were over £100. So I might have to wait awhile to get Door No#2, but atleast I know that it will be solid and a quick job to put on.

Cheers
K
 

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Ok, don't want the new door to go the same way as the old one! Will get some silicon sealer and fire it back in. Thanks for the advice!
cheers
Ken
 
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