Running a TD5 on a steel fuel tank

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chrisstdt

chrisstdt

Well-Known Member
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scottish borders
Im currently fitting a new chassis to a TD5 110 for someone
He got the chassis from shielder and it has come with TDI (steel) fuel tank mounts and the plastic fuel tank doesnt fit ,it also seems the hole in the tank for the sender assy is alot bigger on the plastic tank so its not as simple as just fitting a steel tank

Is there a solution to this problem ?

Thanks
 
Your not the first person the say that !
Im still stripping parts off the old chassis and this is the first major problem ive come across apart from almost every bolt needing cut off !
 
Complain to Shielder - they are used to complaints...and generally don't handle them too well. :mad:
Ask them to replace it with accurate fittings - and then offer to keep it for £500 reduction in cost. Use that money to renew tank, sender etc. :)
 
I have a td5 galvanised chassis on my early defender running a 300tdi with a tdi tank I left the td5 brackets
so I can have a long range set up, simple for me as its a basic sender & the pump isn't in the tank seams
like a lot of grief to modify a tank to suit especially with it being a new chassis.
Id be straight on the phone to them regardless of it being painted its still faulty as Mr eagles has already said.

You could weld brackets on for the td5 tank & paint them with cold galvanising paint once they heavily discount
it for you.
 
I am not familiar with the TDI fuel system as I have a TD5, which has a two stage electric fuel pump in the tank and the delivery pressure is critical for the engine to run correctly or even start, I doubt you will be able to fit the TD5 pump in a steel TDI tank, and doubt that a TDI fuel pump will work on a TD5. I would reject the chassis, if the tank fitting is wrong what else may be incorrect too. Have they sent a TDI chassis and not a TD5 with wrong brackets.
 
Scooby22 said:
I am not familiar with the TDI fuel system as I have a TD5, which has a two stage electric fuel pump in the tank and the delivery pressure is critical for the engine to run correctly or even start, I doubt you will be able to fit the TD5 pump in a steel TDI tank, and doubt that a TDI fuel pump will work on a TD5. I would reject the chassis, if the tank fitting is wrong what else may be incorrect too. Have they sent a TDI chassis and not a TD5 with wrong brackets.
Click to expand...

Tdi pump wont work it has a lift pump on the side of the block running off a cam which feeds the filter then to the injection pump, the td5 in tank pump needs to be used unless he sets up a electric pump & pressure reg.
 
Make sure you get the correct pressure some won’t run without it.

Would an old RR or early D1 tank work?
Do Some of these have the inbuilt top pump.
 
If a chassis return isn't feesible then I would cut the td5 mounts off the old chassis and weld to the new.
I did the opposite, got a new genuine td5 chassis 18 yrs ago and cut off the 2.5nad mounts off the old chassis, welded to the new. I did have an issue with chassis webbing on the td5 chassis getting in the way of tank sender fitting because it's located on the side of a steel tank, but a grinder sorted that.
Don't even consider trying to fit a steel tank, too much work and it will rot out eventually.
 
Been up today and the new chassis doesnt have the holes infront of the rear wheels for the fuel filter !

It seems to be a tdi hi cap chassis with td5 engine and gearbox mounts

Its now in the hands of the customer as he chose shielder in price and ordered the chassis himself but if it was me id be complaining to them

Would a 300tdi disco tank fit ? as it would take the td5 sender

Thanks
 
chrisstdt said:
Been up today and the new chassis doesnt have the holes infront of the rear wheels for the fuel filter !

It seems to be a tdi hi cap chassis with td5 engine and gearbox mounts

Its now in the hands of the customer as he chose shielder in price and ordered the chassis himself but if it was me id be complaining to them

Would a 300tdi disco tank fit ? as it would take the td5 sender

Thanks
Click to expand...
Before you put any more work in to it I'd do what @Hicap phill said and check other key dimensions. e.g. Distances between out riggers. Distance between out riggers and rear cross member. Reference distances to gearbox cross member bolt holes etc. You could go through a lot of hassle sorting the engine mounts to then find the body won't go on.
 
Al2O3 said:
Before you put any more work in to it I'd do what @Hicap phill said and check other key dimensions. e.g. Distances between out riggers. Distance between out riggers and rear cross member. Reference distances to gearbox cross member bolt holes etc. You could go through a lot of hassle sorting the engine mounts to then find the body won't go on.
Click to expand...

I will be doing this when im back at the workshop this week ,im not keen to proceed with the chassis and the customer seems unwilling to complain to shielder

But its a payed job and i get a bit of work off him so i may need to make do with what ive got !
 
chrisstdt said:
I will be doing this when im back at the workshop this week ,im not keen to proceed with the chassis and the customer seems unwilling to complain to shielder

But its a payed job and i get a bit of work off him so i may need to make do with what ive got !
Click to expand...
That's his loss then, mate. I can tell you'll make it clear to him the possible worst case scenario of continuing with a poorly built chassis.
I used a Richards chassis for my 90 rebuild and the near side tubular outrigger was a good half inch too far away from the rear cross member. Fortunately, it was that way so the tub still dropped in and I could get a galved steel packing piece to fill the gap. If it had been half inch too close to the rear crossmember the tub wouldn't have gone in.
 
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