RRS SDV6 3.0d p22d2-77 and p22cf-71

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liviunicolas

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Hello colleagues! I'm new to the forum and using google translate, so I apologize for any spelling mistakes.

I own a Range Rover Sport 3.0Diesel sdv6 2010.
for a week I have been facing the following problem, my performance limited to higher accelerations when I exceed 2500rpm. when I take my foot off the accelerator, the red triangle appears and I break down.. I have to stop the engine, and wait 1-2 minutes.. then I restart it and everything is ok until the next acceleration. the diagnostic gives me the following errors:

1- p00bd-07 Air flow mass or volume of a circuit Range/performance - Air flow too high

2- p22d2-77 Turbocharger Turbine Inlet Valve Stuck Open

3- p22cf-71 Turbocharger Turbine Intake Valve Control Circuit -Open

I am also attaching a photo of the error codes.

and around 1800-2000rpm it seems to lose air somewhere. I'm not sure if that's what it's supposed to sound like, or am I really missing something somewhere?

please, if anyone else has gone through this and solved it, tell me what the solution was.
what I tried to do, I removed the plastic shield near the left wheel where the vacuum operated valve is to check if it is not blocked.. it seems to be fine!
thank you and I await your opinions
 

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If I've read the internet translation correctly, the reason you can drive to 2500rpm is that the fixed turbo has a control valve that blocks intake air until you hit that engine speed, your fault codes indicate that the valve is open circuit (or the fuse has blown), the other two codes for the airflow and turbo valve stuck are consequential and confirm the airflow valve is the problem. The valve is vacuum operated so it will be the small solenoid on the front of the engine that is either defective or the wiring is disconnected or damaged.
 
Graculus said:
Dacă am citit corect traducerea de pe internet, motivul pentru care puteți conduce la 2500 rpm este că turbo-ul fix are o supapă de control care blochează aerul de admisie până când atingeți acea turație a motorului, codurile dvs. de eroare indică faptul că supapa este în circuit deschis (sau siguranța s-a ars), celelalte două coduri pentru supapa de flux de aer și turbo blocate sunt consecințe și confirmă că supapa de flux de aer este problema. Supapa este acționată în vid, așa că va fi micul solenoid de pe partea din față a motorului care este fie defect, fie cablajul este deconectat sau deteriorat.
Click to expand...
multumesc mult pentru raspuns!
care ar fi supapa de aer? Îți voi trimite o poză pentru a confirma dacă aceasta este supapa de flux de aer
 

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Graculus said:
If I've read the internet translation correctly, the reason you can drive to 2500rpm is that the fixed turbo has a control valve that blocks intake air until you hit that engine speed, your fault codes indicate that the valve is open circuit (or the fuse has blown), the other two codes for the airflow and turbo valve stuck are consequential and confirm the airflow valve is the problem. The valve is vacuum operated so it will be the small solenoid on the front of the engine that is either defective or the wiring is disconnected or damaged.
Click to expand...
thank you very much for the answer!
what would the air valve be? I will send you a picture to confirm if this is the air flow valve
 
Graculus said:
If I've read the internet translation correctly, the reason you can drive to 2500rpm is that the fixed turbo has a control valve that blocks intake air until you hit that engine speed, your fault codes indicate that the valve is open circuit (or the fuse has blown), the other two codes for the airflow and turbo valve stuck are consequential and confirm the airflow valve is the problem. The valve is vacuum operated so it will be the small solenoid on the front of the engine that is either defective or the wiring is disconnected or damaged.
Click to expand...
or about this song is the reference to what you suggested?
 
Yep, that's a standard Pierberg vacuum solenoid - JLR ones sometimes have two 'wings' so they can be bolted down, VWG ones are as your photo. electrically and pneumatically they operate the same
 
Graculus said:
Yep, that's a standard Pierberg vacuum solenoid - JLR ones sometimes have two 'wings' so they can be bolted down, VWG ones are as your photo. electrically and pneumatically they operate the same
Click to expand...
so you suggest me to change this solenoid? I know the one you are talking about, there are two next to each other, one gray and one black. it's about the black one! do you think this would solve my problem? many on the forum with the same error codes say that it is either the magnetic actuator on the small turbo or an intake manifold with losses. I would be very lucky if it was just what you say
 
I don't ever suggest changing parts without proper diagnosis.
Check the vacuum to the solenoid, check the solenoid is switching and check the vacuum operated valve is moving. The DTC P22CF71 suggests an electrical fault in the control circuit or the solenoid itself, the other two relevant DTC's are consequential errors because of this.
 
Graculus said:
I don't ever suggest changing parts without proper diagnosis.
Check the vacuum to the solenoid, check the solenoid is switching and check the vacuum operated valve is moving. The DTC P22CF71 suggests an electrical fault in the control circuit or the solenoid itself, the other two relevant DTC's are consequential errors because of this.
Click to expand...
 
Graculus said:
I don't ever suggest changing parts without proper diagnosis.
Check the vacuum to the solenoid, check the solenoid is switching and check the vacuum operated valve is moving. The DTC P22CF71 suggests an electrical fault in the control circuit or the solenoid itself, the other two relevant DTC's are consequential errors because of this.
Click to expand...
I got the ideea. the problem is that in Romania the mechanics here don't even want to hear about range rover 😭😭 and this makes it very difficult for me to correctly diagnose my problem.. that's why I turned to a more appropriate forum. if you could also tell me about the fuse you referred to so I can check it. the car pulls up to 4000 4500 rpm fine, only if I exceed the speed of 60 km/h and try a kickdown after taking my foot off the accelerator it goes into limp mode
 
I don't have the specific wiring diagram for your engine / model combination, it should be fuse 7 in the engine fuse box based on the L405.
Buy yourself a cheap vacuum gauge with a 'T' piece and a short length of vacuum line and connect it into the outlet (the angled connector, not the metal or plastic 'through' connections) start the engine and see what it reads, do the same with a long piece of pipe so you have the gauge in the cabin and drive until it faults, what does it read at the moment of the fault? then repeat with the solenoid identified at '3' in the schematic.

Ideally get a hand vacuum pump (MityVac) and operate the intake and turbine vacuum valves to check for correct operation and full movement, also with the ignition off, vacuum test the control pipework at the vacuum pump to check for leaks.

If either solenoid is not operating, check it has battery voltage on one pin of the connector, the other is grounded through the ECM to activate but you should see a small voltage >0.5V with the ignition on and the component electrically disconnected. a 21W bulb across the connector will visually show you correct operation with the solenoid connected, again you'll need to drive it so long wires will be needed. Be careful not to spread or weaken the connectors otherwise you'll have pin grip issues on top of whatever the underlying cause is...
 
Graculus said:
I don't have the specific wiring diagram for your engine / model combination, it should be fuse 7 in the engine fuse box based on the L405.
Buy yourself a cheap vacuum gauge with a 'T' piece and a short length of vacuum line and connect it into the outlet (the angled connector, not the metal or plastic 'through' connections) start the engine and see what it reads, do the same with a long piece of pipe so you have the gauge in the cabin and drive until it faults, what does it read at the moment of the fault? then repeat with the solenoid identified at '3' in the schematic.

Ideally get a hand vacuum pump (MityVac) and operate the intake and turbine vacuum valves to check for correct operation and full movement, also with the ignition off, vacuum test the control pipework at the vacuum pump to check for leaks.

If either solenoid is not operating, check it has battery voltage on one pin of the connector, the other is grounded through the ECM to activate but you should see a small voltage >0.5V with the ignition on and the component electrically disconnected. a 21W bulb across the connector will visually show you correct operation with the solenoid connected, again you'll need to drive it so long wires will be needed. Be careful not to spread or weaken the connectors otherwise you'll have pin grip issues on top of whatever the underlying cause is...
Click to expand...
thank you very much i will try this. I'll keep you posted
 
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