Roll cage to support expedition roof rack?

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casey66

Member
Posts
14
Hi all, I have a 50kg expedition roof rack on my Defender 90 TD5 and am loading it up with a 70kg roof tent, a 30kg awning and at night, myself at 80kg and my wife...at not too far off the same (she would kill me for saying that!). I'm hoping that the weight roof should be OK when parked up but I'm wondering if it would be an idea to fit a roll cage and weld it to the roof rack to give it a good support of the chassis? This way the weight would be shared between the chassis and the roof gutters. Just wondering if anyone has had experience with loading up the roof rack and whether they think the roof gutters would be ok as they are without a roll cage...or even if the roll cage is a good idea or not? Many thanks for any advice!
 
Hi all, I have a 50kg expedition roof rack on my Defender 90 TD5 and am loading it up with a 70kg roof tent, a 30kg awning and at night, myself at 80kg and my wife...at not too far off the same (she would kill me for saying that!). I'm hoping that the weight roof should be OK when parked up but I'm wondering if it would be an idea to fit a roll cage and weld it to the roof rack to give it a good support of the chassis? This way the weight would be shared between the chassis and the roof gutters. Just wondering if anyone has had experience with loading up the roof rack and whether they think the roof gutters would be ok as they are without a roll cage...or even if the roll cage is a good idea or not? Many thanks for any advice!
Sorry, I’ve no idea, but tell your wife about the weight comments and I reckon you’ll save 80kgs 😁
 
Hi all, I have a 50kg expedition roof rack on my Defender 90 TD5 and am loading it up with a 70kg roof tent, a 30kg awning and at night, myself at 80kg and my wife...at not too far off the same (she would kill me for saying that!). I'm hoping that the weight roof should be OK when parked up but I'm wondering if it would be an idea to fit a roll cage and weld it to the roof rack to give it a good support of the chassis? This way the weight would be shared between the chassis and the roof gutters. Just wondering if anyone has had experience with loading up the roof rack and whether they think the roof gutters would be ok as they are without a roll cage...or even if the roll cage is a good idea or not? Many thanks for any advice!


I’ve got a roof tent and awning so me and the dear lady wife just go easy at the jiggy jiggy. I also put two Land Rover jacks in the two back cross member holes to stop it rocking so that other campers don’t become concerned
 
A cage is a always a welcome addition to a land rover, ive had the misfortune of being in a severe accident where the cage genuinely saved my life.

Not only that but its been a huge benefit for loading things on the roof!

Saftey Devices also sell excellent brackets that bolt round the cage allowing you to mount anything you want with ease.

The only downside is some insurance companies get arsey about insuring caged cars, however the extra agro and cost is 100% worth the safety factor.
 
If the concern is the roof gutters taking the weight there are several roof rack designs that are available to try and mitigate that. The old brown church HD roof racks had additional support struts that came down to the windscreen hinges and the rear body capping as seen here (pic from google):

1743664906440.png


You can also get some roof racks that have a full length bar sitting on the gutter to spread the load rather than the point load of the individual legs. Hannibal do one but there may be other brands as well (pic from @ER1C 's for sale post LINK):

1743665144398.png


Both of these improve the weight distribution over a standard roof rack without going as extreme as fitting a roll cage. Roll cages have some advantages, but also have some drawbacks, so are something to consider carefully rather than fit because you want a roof rack. One thing to consider is fitting a cage is not something that is easily reversable as you will have holes cut in all body panels to link the cage to the chassis. There are also many many people running roof tent setup on a standard roof rack on a defender or even a pair of roof bars with no issues, and with the reduction in prices with the like of tent box etc, there are now lots of people running roof tents on all sorts of other modern plastic hatchback type vehicles without any additional structural support to the roof rack.
 
All good points.....

Keep in mind when you are sleeping only "some" weight is on the roof as the ladder supports a lot of it.

I would in order.

1. Support the rack fully along the gutter
2. Get as light a rack as possible
3. Even the load on the rack which is helped by 1.

I have seen a few talking about distortions but most I have seen look like when they have over tightened or uneven load on one point of the gutter. Its quite easy to over tighten and pull up the gutter.

I may be shot down for this but I think the maximum roof load which I believe was 75kg is always best practice as you could be on the road at 55mph and a child walks out in front of you and you need to be able to stop without the roof coming off or unbalancing you so you tip over.

Roll cage would help but its a bit like opening walnuts with a sledgehammer, sure it works but not really what its for.
 
Thanks so much for all that info, really helpful. The rack i have is heavy but has 4 x supports along its length on both sides which are about 10cm wide so plenty of weight distribution. I keep being told by people who have been using roof tents for years that they've never had issues and I'm sure they are right but I'm overly cautious by nature so keep worrying that i'll damage the roof. I have a couple of mates who are handy at welding and say they could knock up some tubular steel sections to support the existing rack of the chassis so I'll try and contact a few firms to see if i can buy the small internal supports separately that bolt to the chassis then build up from there. Thanks again for all the replies...most appreciated!
 
Thanks so much for all that info, really helpful. The rack i have is heavy but has 4 x supports along its length on both sides which are about 10cm wide so plenty of weight distribution. I keep being told by people who have been using roof tents for years that they've never had issues and I'm sure they are right but I'm overly cautious by nature so keep worrying that i'll damage the roof. I have a couple of mates who are handy at welding and say they could knock up some tubular steel sections to support the existing rack of the chassis so I'll try and contact a few firms to see if i can buy the small internal supports separately that bolt to the chassis then build up from there. Thanks again for all the replies...most appreciated!
You are wise to be concerned and query.

Imagine if 2/3 of the weight were at the front on one side it would be on 1 support on the gutter really. But you are also right the feet you have are wider than a lot out there. I would take some pictures and then keep an eye on it and keep checking... they will distort very gradually. Drawing a line along the gutter picture helps.
 
You are wise to be concerned and query.

Imagine if 2/3 of the weight were at the front on one side it would be on 1 support on the gutter really. But you are also right the feet you have are wider than a lot out there. I would take some pictures and then keep an eye on it and keep checking... they will distort very gradually. Drawing a line along the gutter picture helps.
Good advice, I'll take some photos and keep an eye on it!
 
Just had a thought that might put this on hold for me. I plan on registering my TD5 as a classic car in the future. I live in France and any vehicle here that is 30 years old and not manufactured any more, is exempt from charges in the French ULEZ zones. My guess would be that modifying the chassis with a roll cage might mean that it wouldn't qualify. Guess I'll have to contact the relevant people here to find out. Guess it would be the same in the UK?
 
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