Reverse clutch bleeding?

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Tenz

Member
Posts
83
Location
Ilkeston(Derbyshire)
Hi, I'm rebuilding my 90, I've changed the gearbox and replaced the clutch (ap),new slave and master,I've tried bleeding it and got quite a stiff pedal but can't get it into gear when the engine is running, so I'm hoping I've just got problems with air in system, before I have to start thinking about splitting the box again, I thought I'd try reverse bleeding it, but I can't for love nor money get the fluid to go through which is making me think there's more to it.
I'm abit stuck to be honest, so if you've got any advice on what to do next I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
 
I've had a play about with it, but seems to make no difference, at the moment it's near the end of the thread,don't understand why I can't get the fluid through
 
try the flexy hose they can collapse internally and cause a hard pedal with no flow through to slave ,
 
To check the master cylinder pushrods setting slacken the locknuts off on the pushrod. The internal spring in the master cylinder will then extend it. Leaving the locknuts loose check the pedal height, , it should be 140mm. If necessary set this with the adjuster screw. Then tighten locknuts leaving a few mm free play in pedal. By doing this you allow valve at back of master cylinder to allow free flow of fluid from reservoir to cylinder when pedal is released.
 
I've put a new flexi hose on so can't see it being that but I'll check it anyway, and I'll set the pedal as you say when I get back from work, at the moment it's 150mm from the floor, buts there's more than a few mm of free play in the pedal, so fingers crossed, thanks I'll report back and let you know how it goes.
 
Right then, I've set the pedal up, it's 140mm from the floor, but still no joy in getting the fluid through, I did get a couple of air bubbles coming up through the reservoir but the fluid level doesn't rise, what am I doing wrong??
 
This may or may not apply but sometimes when a new dry master cylinder piston is pushed in for the first time it sticks at the far end of it's movement[spring not strong enough to overcome friction] and as a result fluid will not pass through to slave.In which case reverse bleed could work.
 
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Thanks for the replys, I've managed to get fluid through by reverse bleeding it, but still can't get it into gear when it's running?could the slave cylinder piston be causing it?or is it possible I've still got air stuck somewhere,what do I try next?
 
Sorry forgot to say,the pedal doesn't really have a massive resistance till half way down and I've wound the adjustment right out on the master cylinder
 
Sorry to be pedantic, but have you slackened off the locknuts on the pushrod and let the piston in the slave cylinder come out to its full extent through the pedal. Tighten the locknuts after this to ensure you are using the full travel of the piston.
 
When Ive done the m/cyl on mine all I did was quite simply set the nuts up so there was a smidgen of play at the clevis job done.
Bleeding was done via gravity and a couple of pedal pushes to clear the very last bubble.
We used to back bleed the truck clutches, but shoudnt be needed on the land rover.
How and what are you using to back bleed it?
 
Lynall is basically saying the same as me, but in a slightly different way. Slacken the locknuts then let the pushrod find its own position - the springs inside will push it out. Tighten the locknuts to keep it in this position. There will then be a way for fluid to travel from reservoir into cylinder - and air to travel out. When you push on pedal the first few mm of travel close the oil way allowing pressure to build up. Bleed after setting pushrod and as above it should ok.
 
I'm using a oil can and a piece of clear hose, like I said I've got fluid through now and got a pedal but still won't go into gear, what else other than the master cylinder pushrod setting be causing me the problem
 
I assume you have it in neutral? When you startup, depress clutch pedal and try to select gear what happens?
 
Sorted, I took the slave cylinder out,and piston inside was about half way down, so popped it back up stuck it back in, bled it job done, Thanks for the suggestions
 
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