I want to swap the roof of my 1992 110 station wagon for a newer one from a scrappy which doesn't have a sun roof because I am sick of the leaks from my old one. I also want to fit a roof console but can't because the sun roof is in the way. Can anyone give me a detailed guide of how to remove the old roof and refit the new one - where the bolts are etc. Will there be any problems when I remove the roof with body alignment - doors not lining up etc and is there anything I can do to avoid this? Also do I need to order any new bolts/seals etc. in advance? Any advice would be greatfully appreciated and thanks in advance for your tips!
Replacing the Roof of a 110 Station Wagon
- Thread starter BenC
- Start date
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mondo
Banned
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Just go round an undo all the bolts mate !
Hi Ben,
interested in the results here, I've got to do my tub caps and need to take the roof off also. Like you, the sunroof leaks like a barsteward, I'm told a replacement sunroof kit sort all that out though if you put enough silicon sealer in!
cheers
K
interested in the results here, I've got to do my tub caps and need to take the roof off also. Like you, the sunroof leaks like a barsteward, I'm told a replacement sunroof kit sort all that out though if you put enough silicon sealer in!
cheers
K
boydy1989
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There are 8 bolts along the edge above the windscreen, with nuts welded to plates that slot into the holes in the roof edge. The door rubber strip thing may be stuck, just pull the rubber off and then that comes off with the roof. Then, there are a number of bolts along both edges off the roof, where is bolts to the side panels. Undo them, and keep the nuts of course. Then, lift off the roof! It will probably be stuck into the rubber, to 2 people with small levering tools and a lot of wiggling later, you should have the roof off.
If you have to remove the headlining, then you will almost certianly need new little plastic clip things to re fit it, cos they are a real pain to remove and almost always break.
If you have to remove the headlining, then you will almost certianly need new little plastic clip things to re fit it, cos they are a real pain to remove and almost always break.
boydy1989
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Oh yeah the doors should line straigh up, you may need to pull your side panels in a bit to get the roof back on, i did, just sorta pull. You may also need the rubber seal that sits atop the side panels. My landy hasn't got one, and you get a draft by your left ear on cold motorway journeys cos of it!
Pikey
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When you refit the bolts tighten them all up hand tight and then walk round and fine tune the final positioning. then tighten all the bolts fully. Also don't forget to seal the top of the windscreen panel to the roof with a good quality sealant.
Land Rover hard top or truck cab sta/steel Roof Bolts B on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 30-Mar-08 21:45:34 BST)
Land Rover Roof bolt plate for truck cab hardtop Genuin on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 01-Apr-08 18:23:35 BST)
On one of my old landies someone had used blu-tack as a seal, it worked brilliantly!
Taking the roof off is no problem, just undo the bolts and away you go, it will be very heavy, don't forget to unclip any wires to your interior lights etc.
As for rear tub cappings, no problem, remove the roof, drill out the old rivets, put new capping on and re-rivet, the body wont fall apart or anything when you remove capping.
If your doing rear quarter cappings that run from the tub top to the rear crossmember, these can be done without removing tub capping, they just slot underneath it.
hope this helps.
Land Rover Roof bolt plate for truck cab hardtop Genuin on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 01-Apr-08 18:23:35 BST)
On one of my old landies someone had used blu-tack as a seal, it worked brilliantly!
Taking the roof off is no problem, just undo the bolts and away you go, it will be very heavy, don't forget to unclip any wires to your interior lights etc.
As for rear tub cappings, no problem, remove the roof, drill out the old rivets, put new capping on and re-rivet, the body wont fall apart or anything when you remove capping.
If your doing rear quarter cappings that run from the tub top to the rear crossmember, these can be done without removing tub capping, they just slot underneath it.
hope this helps.
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
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- in Baron Wet Bum's Slave pit..
For sealing between tub & sides, Roof & sides and Roof & windscreen I highly recommend glazing tape. it looks like blutack but is adhesive and will compress when the bolts are tightened up. It is designed to seal glass panels in place and is very very good stuff try Solaglas or similar.
