Replacing the fuel pump on a Td5 90

Hi all,

any one has any ideas on what's the best way to replace the fuel pump on a Td5?

I have gotten 2 options from different sources.

land rover said : do a body lift, remove the pump, fit body back.
indi workshop said : drill out the floor panel in the rear tub, remove pump, then rivert back the floor.

anyone done it the 2nd way before? i've some owners in sg who have done it the 2nd way and they weren't too happy.

lifting the body to me seems like an over kill to do a simple task like that.

i understand that the discos were build with a opening hatch in the floor to assist in this dumb task.

whyn't you jus drop the tank?

Drop the tank, mates have done it before, no probs at all!

sounds possible. has anyone done it themselves before? how difficult is this going to be? the 110 will have more space to move the tank forward, but i'm not sure if the rear axel will be blocking when i move the tank to try to drop it.

Drop the tank - I did it just yesterday when I realised I'd forgotton to replace the seal on my sender (or in your case sender / pump).

What I did was undo the bolts holding the tank cradle to the chassis, with a trolley jack supporting the weight of the tank (which was empty), lowered it down a bit, reached in and undid the pipe and vent / breather clips, then lowered it a bit more at a slight angle (as the fuel filler part of the tank starts to foul the chassis, then tilted the whole tank towards the rear axle, pulled jently at an angle, then the sender top was visible.

Next unscrewed the locking ring, lifted out sender, fitted new seal, or in your case new sender/pump and reassembled.

Theres no fuel in my system yet (I'm building from scratch with a rear td5 tank) so you'd have to do a bit of purging...

wot year is yer TD5? they normally have a self purge program...once you done the fuel pump, switch on yer ignition and leave it on fer 3 minutes.....goes into a self purge mode and continues for about 3 minutes. you may have to do this more than once tho if you get a lot of air in the system.

so you need not remove the entire tank? just get it to tilt forward a lil, till the tank sender / pump is visible? disconnect the 4 connectors, then wrestle to undo the pump and it can be replaced?

the unofficial way to bleed the td5 is to put the ignition to pos II, do not start the engine yet. repeatedly press and release the throttle in repeated succession for like 5 times, the check engine light will flash, you'll hear the fuel pump running. let it run till it stops, turn the key to off, and do the whole thing again. when it stops try to crank the engine for no more than 30 sec. if it doesn't start, wait 1min, in order not to kill the starter motor, do the entire purge sequence again.

Its got to drop down a bit and tilt forward quite a bit, with you doing all manner of elastic arm and dislocated shoulder jiggling from under the axle reaching up through the gubbins - but with patience and care it's quite easy - make sure you rub all round the pump fixing collar etc before removing it to loosen off all the crud and then hoover it up, or you'll get all the crap falling in your tank.

Alternatively, drop the tank in its entirety if theres TOO much crud up there..

The amount of dust and crap that builds up on top the tank and around the fuel pump your better off dropping the tank right out. Go carefull how far you drop the tank before you take off the four push fit fuel pipes as i have had them break off before. On a 110 theres hardly anyroom to move the tank forwards or backwards. Its inbetween the rear axle and rear crossmember. If your dropping the tank, you will have to remove the hitch braces where fitted. If you undo the bolts at the hitch first (24mm spanner size) then you can pull the bracket down so its verticle , this helps get a spanner on the awkward nut on the inside of the other mounting of the brace. There is also another rubber pipe on the rear left hand side of the tank (as seen stood behind the vehicle) opposite side to the filler and breather pipe. Finally the locking ring (nut) holding the fuel pump in can get quite tight if you dont have the tool for undoing it, a not too sharp chisel can be used to tap it undone.
All I can say is why didnt landrover just put a hole in the floor with a plate! They managed it on the disco II.