replacing lift pump 2.5n/a

Hi all
I have to replace my lift pump on my 2.5 N/A landy on tuesday and was just wondering if there is any tips anyone can give me when i do it as i havnt done one before and do i have to bleed the system up arfter ifso where is the best place to do this from, is it as simple as just unbolting the old and bolting the new one on or do i have to take anything else of?
many thanks
Kyle

spurs said:

Hi all
I have to replace my lift pump on my 2.5 N/A landy on tuesday and was just wondering if there is any tips anyone can give me when i do it as i havnt done one before and do i have to bleed the system up arfter ifso where is the best place to do this from, is it as simple as just unbolting the old and bolting the new one on or do i have to take anything else of?
many thanks
Kyle

Click to expand...

Hello. A lift pump swap is perhaps one of the easiest jobs you can do. One thing that you do need to bear in mind however, is the position of the pipe connectors. If you still have your original lift pump, you might find that the union from pump to fuel filter housing is on the left of the pump in a horizontal position. Most new pumps have both the inlet and the outlet unions on top of the pump in a portrait position. If this is the case, you will need new pipes to suit.

Make sure you fit the black spacer that comes with the pump and also fit the new gasket along with some silicone / hylomar to help it seal. Also, when you're tightening it all back up, you may feel some resistance or the pump might not push right up to the block. This is simply the pump lever pushing up against a cam lobe. You are fine to tighten it right up - it wont snap etc!

You will need to prime and bleed the system yes. The lift pump is the only non return valve in your fuel line as standard, so any fuel will have returned straight back to the tank and air will have found its way into the fuel filter housing. Simply plumb everything back in, slacken off the smallest bolt on the very top of your fuel filter housing (bleed bolt) and then turn the engine over until only fuel seeps from the hole - not bubbles / air etc. Don't rely on the manual priming lever on the lift pump because this will only work if the cam shaft is in such a position that the main pump lever is raised on a lobe. Most of the time, the manual lever will be useless. Tighten it back up and fire the engine up. It may take a fair bit of turning over to fire up so have a boost kit / jump leads ready.

If it still wont fire, slacken off the bleed nipple on your injection pump too and slacken one injector pipe at the injector and turn the engine over. It will eventually fire. Stop the engine, tighten everything back up and then it should fire up pronto. You should only really need to bleed air from the filter housing. If you need to bleed your injection pump / injector line too, you will have turned the engine over whilst there was still air in the filter housing which will have been drawn into the injection pump.

Give it 30 seconds of glow plugs before you attempt to start it too.

-Pos

pos what is the black spacer for? what happens if you dont fit it?

MudHunter said:

pos what is the black spacer for? what happens if you dont fit it?

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Most new lift pumps from companies such as Delphi and Bearmach for example, are designed to be bolted onto more than one engine. The same pump can be fitted to the 12J, 19J, 200TDi and maybe even the 300TDi, but the way that the pump mounts to the engine differs slightly in each application (apart from the 12J and 19J where the mountings are identical). The 200TDi has a lift pump mating face which comes away from the cylinder block by about 15-20mm, where as the mating face on a 12J or 19J is level with the cylinder block casting. The black spacer is designed to bring the lift pump forward on these engines so that the pump arm is at the right position on the cam lobe - i.e. it doesn't stick too far into the engine. Obviously with the pump designed to fit more than one engine, the pump arm is as long as it needs to be for the 200TDi engine, which already has the 'spacer' cast into the block as so to speak. If you don't fit the spacer to a 12J or 19J engine, and you do manage to actually tighten the pump right up, the pump arm will immediately bend once the camshaft starts turning and you wont get an efficient pump. It could even knacker a cam lobe.

Does that make sense?
-Pos

ye it really does and I am going out first thing in the morning to check whats going on. i replaced my pump a while ago and dont think i used that spacer! would an 'inefficient pump' result in lack of previous top end speed? i been wondering where thats gone...
(got a 19j by the way)

MudHunter said:

ye it really does and I am going out first thing in the morning to check whats going on. i replaced my pump a while ago and dont think i used that spacer! would an 'inefficient pump' result in lack of previous top end speed? i been wondering where thats gone...
(got a 19j by the way)

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That may well explain your problem yes. If the pump arm has bent (more than likely) or if it isn't being pushed to it's limits, it wont pump as much fuel as it should be doing and your engine will be starved of fuel, something that you'll definitely notice at higher revs / speeds. Check that the arm isn't bent before you re-fit it with the spacer. If it looks bent, fit a new one.

-Pos

cheers pos i have a spare pump looks like it'll be going on in the morning!

MudHunter said:

cheers pos i have a spare pump looks like it'll be going on in the morning!

Click to expand...

Let me know if it makes any difference, and don't forget the spacer!
-Pos

MudHunter said:

cheers pos i have a spare pump looks like it'll be going on in the morning!

Click to expand...

Did you make any progress?

What a Day!!!!!

firstly fitted new lift pump and pipes etc then arfter cranking over the starter decided to fail, so managed to get a new one. So i managed to get her started but cutting a long story short she is now miss fireing badly and wont idle as well as chucking out plumes of black smoke. There is no air coming from the injector pump or the injectors but there does appear to be a bit of air from the top of the filter housing!!!!

So does anyone know where the air might be coming from?
cheers
Kyle

spurs said:

What a Day!!!!!

firstly fitted new lift pump and pipes etc then arfter cranking over the starter decided to fail, so managed to get a new one. So i managed to get her started but cutting a long story short she is now miss fireing badly and wont idle as well as chucking out plumes of black smoke. There is no air coming from the injector pump or the injectors but there does appear to be a bit of air from the top of the filter housing!!!!

So does anyone know where the air might be coming from?
cheers
Kyle

Click to expand...

If there's air at the filter housing, then there's air at the injection pump. I'd start at the beginning and work to the end. Remove the fuel pickup pipe from your fuel tank and examine it for small pin size holes, especially towards the top of the pipe and on the bend where the fuel hose slips over / bolts onto. Follow the fuel line up to the lift pump checking for any splits etc. Common sense says that if it's started doing this since you swapped your lift pump, you've got a leak at the intake / output connections on the lift pump.

-Pos

pos said:

Did you make any progress?

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Hello
Took off the lift pump expecting a bent lever but it was good as new. I still had the black spacer which came with my current pump so I though nothing to lose and stuck it on. Drove up some hills round my area and just as i got back home the engine died - no fuel. took the spacer out again bled the system started no probs. had a poke around with a torch found out that my 19j actually has a mating face bolted on to the block already. perhaps this was a mod to later 19j's? mine is one of the last.

MudHunter said:

Hello
Took off the lift pump expecting a bent lever but it was good as new. I still had the black spacer which came with my current pump so I though nothing to lose and stuck it on. Drove up some hills round my area and just as i got back home the engine died - no fuel. took the spacer out again bled the system started no probs. had a poke around with a torch found out that my 19j actually has a mating face bolted on to the block already. perhaps this was a mod to later 19j's? mine is one of the last.

Click to expand...

That may well be the case. My N/A certainly didn't have a 'spacer' cast into the block as so to speak, hence the black plastic component. Did you manage to get any top end power back any other way? The lift pump should launch fuel at your bonnet, not just splutter it out slightly. Also check your fuel line for kinks, and the pick up pipe in the fuel tank for clogs / air holes. There may be a wire mesh at the bottom of the pickup pipe which will eventually clog up with brown sludge, this may have become blocked preventing adequate fuel flow.

-Pos

-Pos

Now then just to clarify was i supposed to put the black spacer on to my 2.5 N/A?
many thanks
Kyle

pos said:

That may well be the case. My N/A certainly didn't have a 'spacer' cast into the block as so to speak, hence the black plastic component. Did you manage to get any top end power back any other way? The lift pump should launch fuel at your bonnet, not just splutter it out slightly. Also check your fuel line for kinks, and the pick up pipe in the fuel tank for clogs / air holes. There may be a wire mesh at the bottom of the pickup pipe which will eventually clog up with brown sludge, this may have become blocked preventing adequate fuel flow.

-Pos

Click to expand...

No top end power is still lacking it pulls well up to about 50mph but wont criuse any faster than 55 - used to do 65+ without too much trouble. lift pump is a good un fuel squirts out as it should.

spurs said:

Now then just to clarify was i supposed to put the black spacer on to my 2.5 N/A?
many thanks
Kyle

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have a look at where the pump screws onto the block. is there a metal spacer plate bolted onto the hole or is it just a hole in the block? if just the hole (most likely on ur N/A) you will need the spacer and both gaskets.