P38A Replacement lump: which way to go?

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Zorro587

Zorro587

Active Member
Posts
206
Hi all,

well I've finally got to the end of Accept It Road, and feel that the block in my RR is terminal.

So, assuming I want to keep it (too much time and cash put in to walk away) which way do I go?

I can't afford a super-duper top-hatted baby at around £3200; I don't want to just grab any old lump that was "running super sweet before I decided to cannibalize the car..." and I'm waiting for a reply from Emmett's for a price for their rebuilt engines.

Anyone else been through this and which way did you go?

Ta
 
Oh no! Whats wrong with yours? You still loosing water?
It's a tough call, one i had to make early last year when my tapping liner on #5 got too loud to bear. I found a deal on a top hat block with pistons / crank / shells etc (basically a short engine in bits) from an unrealised TVR project. Just needed assembling, think it was around £1100 + around £900 in other bits to complete assembly (upgraded cam, followers, push rods, oil pump kit, bolts, gaskets etc). I didn't fancy paying for an assembled Turner engine due to the amount of other bits you also need to renew to keep the warranty (look at the small print). I got all the components from Turners though. Sold my original pistons & crank for around £400 to recoup some cost (they were in very good shape). Old block is currently residing in the shed.
Maybe cheaper if you could swap your pistons / crank from your engine into a new block, if you can be without the car for a while?
In my personal experience, I find it pointless putting anything other than a top hat block in. Mine is the 3rd engine in my cars history, both previous had liner failures.
Having said all this. it's not the straightforward fix as I had hoped. Mine has gone through 2 head gaskets in the past year due to the head bolt threads in the block failing. I suspect either the original block (a WYF '97 red graded block) had a lot of head changes or overheated at some point & remember this can be the case with any engine your looking at. In hindsight I would have helicoiled all block threads & installed ARP Studs when building to save the hassle i've had over the past 8 months.
As well as available budget, it also depends on how much you want to keep the old girl running. Have you considered giving something like Irontite a go? Could be worth a go before considering a new engine.
 
Zorro587 said:
Hi all,

well I've finally got to the end of Accept It Road, and feel that the block in my RR is terminal.

So, assuming I want to keep it (too much time and cash put in to walk away) which way do I go?

I can't afford a super-duper top-hatted baby at around £3200; I don't want to just grab any old lump that was "running super sweet before I decided to cannibalize the car..." and I'm waiting for a reply from Emmett's for a price for their rebuilt engines.

Anyone else been through this and which way did you go?

Ta
Click to expand...
Start a conversation (envelope symbol top right of page) with Mozz Smith.;)
 
martynv8 said:
Oh no! Whats wrong with yours? You still loosing water?
It's a tough call, one i had to make early last year when my tapping liner on #5 got too loud to bear. I found a deal on a top hat block with pistons / crank / shells etc (basically a short engine in bits) from an unrealised TVR project. Just needed assembling, think it was around £1100 + around £900 in other bits to complete assembly (upgraded cam, followers, push rods, oil pump kit, bolts, gaskets etc). I didn't fancy paying for an assembled Turner engine due to the amount of other bits you also need to renew to keep the warranty (look at the small print). I got all the components from Turners though. Sold my original pistons & crank for around £400 to recoup some cost (they were in very good shape). Old block is currently residing in the shed.
Maybe cheaper if you could swap your pistons / crank from your engine into a new block, if you can be without the car for a while?
In my personal experience, I find it pointless putting anything other than a top hat block in. Mine is the 3rd engine in my cars history, both previous had liner failures.
Having said all this. it's not the straightforward fix as I had hoped. Mine has gone through 2 head gaskets in the past year due to the head bolt threads in the block failing. I suspect either the original block (a WYF '97 red graded block) had a lot of head changes or overheated at some point & remember this can be the case with any engine your looking at. In hindsight I would have helicoiled all block threads & installed ARP Studs when building to save the hassle i've had over the past 8 months.
As well as available budget, it also depends on how much you want to keep the old girl running. Have you considered giving something like Irontite a go? Could be worth a go before considering a new engine.
Click to expand...
Yeah, still losing water and pressurizing the coolant which, naturally, leads to more coolant loss as it is forced back out of the expansion tank.
I was looking at these:
upload_2016-6-2_19-36-8.png

From Emmetts. £1250 which I don't think is too bad for what should be a one-out-one-in type of job.
Grrrrrr said:
What you need, is an oil burner ...
Click to expand...
Had one, Hilux Surf import. Loved it to bits (longest car I've ever owned at 7 years, but my LPG affair goes on.
 
Zorro587 said:
Yeah, still losing water and pressurizing the coolant which, naturally, leads to more coolant loss as it is forced back out of the expansion tank.
I was looking at these:
View attachment 101691
From Emmetts. £1250 which I don't think is too bad for what should be a one-out-one-in type of job.

Had one, Hilux Surf import. Loved it to bits (longest car I've ever owned at 7 years, but my LPG affair goes on.
Click to expand...
Like I said, speak to Mozz.ASAP
 
Zorro587 said:
Yeah, still losing water and pressurizing the coolant which, naturally, leads to more coolant loss as it is forced back out of the expansion tank.
I was looking at these:
View attachment 101691
From Emmetts. £1250 which I don't think is too bad for what should be a one-out-one-in type of job.

Had one, Hilux Surf import. Loved it to bits (longest car I've ever owned at 7 years, but my LPG affair goes on.
Click to expand...
It seems reasonable for a full engine. It's still expensive if it fails again though........
 
Don't know the back story so apologies if you have exhausted all possibilities. I have been in a similar situation thinking i had a cracked block. Be absolutely certain before taking the plunge. It's a big investment / about to become a money pit. Personally, I would do as will says followed by a dealer PX.
 
Is it a keeper or as Cooltide say's a get shut quick Part X ? Did a Disco 300 tdi last week and the owner wanted me to put in some Wonderweld. In his case it wouldn't have worked, some head bolts were just tight and others had to have the 2ft cracker bar treatment. The head had to have 40 thou.skimmed off it, all good now for another 130k (I hope). New v/coupling fitted as well as this caused the overheat problem.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Is it a keeper or as Cooltide say's a get shut quick Part X ? Did a Disco 300 tdi last week and the owner wanted me to put in some Wonderweld. In his case it wouldn't have worked, some head bolts were just tight and others had to have the 2ft cracker bar treatment. The head had to have 40 thou.skimmed off it, all good now for another 130k (I hope). New v/coupling fitted as well as this caused the overheat problem.
Click to expand...
No, at the moment the plan is it's a keeper
 
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