removing the front brakes

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ben waine

Active Member

Posts

588

• Dec 30, 2011

• #1

hey guys yet another post on brakes, ive decided to bite the bullet and replce them (1982 swb 88) and somone has managed to use the wrong stanner on the wheel clyinders so they are rounded and i therefore cant remove them, i thought about heating them but realised the brake fluid may explode or something bad like that, the only thing i can think of is to cut the copper lines then heat the nuts to try and use mole grips to remove them, but that would mean that i would have to replace the copper lines, and also i would then have to buy a brake flairing kit and re do it that way, any ideas anyone ????
thanks ben

 

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edorc

New Member

Posts

68

Location

Dorset

• Dec 30, 2011

• #2

can you get an angle grinder on them? Re the brake fluid I have used heat before and not had a problem...the stuff heats up when you brake and will boil off before anything goes bang!

 

crashbox

Well-Known Member

Posts

12,347

Location

In the UK, thankfully.

• Dec 30, 2011

• #3

I have this to look forward to on mine. I used to come up against this problem on Morris Minors (my previous addiction). I would knock a socket, slightly smaller than the nut or bolt head and try turning it. Yes , you may have to cut the copper pipe as often the nut on the end is rusty, unless it is brass, in which case the nut will round off too easily. Good luck.

 

johnny curt 1

Well-Known Member

Posts

9,118

Location

manchester

• Dec 30, 2011

• #4

dont be soft and heat the bugger up with a blowlamp then grab the little **** with the molegrips then rather than swing on the fekker give it a few sharp taps with a hammer to break the seal on the nut

 

S

Stumpy 1970

New Member

Posts

143

• Dec 30, 2011

• #5

What about using a stud extractor. That would grip the rounded nut.

 

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ben waine

Active Member

Posts

588

• Dec 30, 2011

• #6

(dont have a stud extractor) and not sure where to get them, ill try the heating method first, but you say it will boil off, does that mean i need to open the cap n themaster clyinder because otherwise the pressure will increase ????

 

S

Stumpy 1970

New Member

Posts

143

• Dec 30, 2011

• #7

You can get them in all sizes from most car spares and tool shops. Simply fits to a socket wrench and no risk of setting either you car or yourself alight

 

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ben waine

Active Member

Posts

588

• Dec 30, 2011

• #8

yeh there is that positive but, tthen the lines will also need replacing to get the socket on ? so ive decied for tomorrow im going to try and drain the brake fluid and heat it and see what happens

 

oxides

Well-Known Member

Posts

5,078

Location

Worcs

• Dec 30, 2011

• #9

You'll have to replace the pipes anyway 'cos you won't be able to do them up properly! Go the whole hog and replace the wheel cylinders too. If you don't want to buy a flaring kit find a friendly local garage and get them to make a couple up. Shouldn't cost more than a tenner a pipe.