Recommendations for paint for the inside an axle casing req'd

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Stretch

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,600
Location
Holland
G'day folks,

I'm slowly cleaning out the emulsified gunk from the inside of my series 2a front axle. The casting was painted (in black) by the factory. Does any one know what they used?

Does anyone have any recommendations for what could be used these days? (Quite a bit has happened with paint technology since 1965 when it was built)

Normal engine block paint perhaps?
 
Inside the axle case? the black would be from years of the steel being coated from axle grease
Nah this is definitely paint. The system used is also grease free: Tis an oil filled differential.

There's an engine builder's paint called glyptal that is designed to speed the flow of oil back to the sump and I suppose I could use that but it is effing expensive...
 
Here's a picture of the axle casting in question =>

1965-series-2a-station-wagon-using-household-degreaser-to-clean-axle-housing2-jpg.104443
 
Nah this is definitely paint. The system used is also grease free: Tis an oil filled differential.

There's an engine builder's paint called glyptal that is designed to speed the flow of oil back to the sump and I suppose I could use that but it is effing expensive...
what weight oil and type was it?
 
I think you may be overthinking this, It has a lot of diff oil floating about in there, So i cannot see it going rusty.

Are you sure it is not just overspray?

Cheers
 
Or fill it with oil and then paint the outside, so that when the paint hardens, it will seal the bad gasketing ;);)
 
Or fill it with oil and then paint the outside, so that when the paint hardens, it will seal the bad gasketing ;);)

I think you may be overthinking this, It has a lot of diff oil floating about in there, So i cannot see it going rusty.

Are you sure it is not just overspray?

Cheers

Waste of time, money and effort. Paint the outside and fill it with oil.

Ah - well - there's a whole story behind this that you don't know about.

what weight oil and type was it?

It has been filled with water and cow **** and goodness knows what else and left standing for about 20 years.

The inside is a bit rusty so it needs to be degreased (what I'm doing now) - wire brushed to an inch of its life (will happen next) and then painted with some oil resistance paint (like it was in the factory) so I can safely use it again.
 
I would agree with others above, why bother to paint the inside when it's going to be filled with oil? wire brush it to remove the loose bits but paint, personally I really wouldn't bother myself. Each to their own.
 
I'm being pretty thorough with corrosion prevention on my build, but my axle cases weren't painted internally, haven't rusted anywhere inside despite also being badly neglected and muddy, and I won't be painting inside mine.
 
My front one is a bit too rusty. So if I can't find another correct for the year casting then I'll be degreasing - derusting - and painting glyptal in it
 
They've only corroded because someone's let water in and they've not been used.
You could always get them galvanised if your worried about corrosion. That would sort the real worry of corrosion on the outside. Might work out cheaper than the paint if the paint is that expensive.
 
They've only corroded because someone's let water in and they've not been used.
You could always get them galvanised if your worried about corrosion. That would sort the real worry of corrosion on the outside. Might work out cheaper than the paint if the paint is that expensive.
I guess that would be the Rolls Royce solution - the paint is costly - 50 quid a tin - probably not in the same league as paying Dutch labour rates...
 
I guess that would be the Rolls Royce solution - the paint is costly - 50 quid a tin - probably not in the same league as paying Dutch labour rates...
I would check out the prices of getting stuff galvanised in Holland. It's very reasonable here in the UK. I've just paid £20 to have my tow bar assembly and rear step done. All split in to separate parts. Are you just talking about the diff covers or the whole axles? In the UK I think galving prices range from 50p to £1 for every kg of metal you take along.
 
I would check out the prices of getting stuff galvanised in Holland. It's very reasonable here in the UK. I've just paid £20 to have my tow bar assembly and rear step done. All split in to separate parts. Are you just talking about the diff covers or the whole axles? In the UK I think galving prices range from 50p to £1 for every kg of metal you take along.
I want to get my tow bracket and some other bits galvanized but I don't know anywhere that does it, do you mind if I ask where did you use, sounds pretty reasonable.
 
No problem. A company called Franklin Steel. They are on the side of the Tyne at a place called Blaydon, near Newcastle. Google them cos I think they have other locations around the country.
 
No problem. A company called Franklin Steel. They are on the side of the Tyne at a place called Blaydon, near Newcastle. Google them cos I think they have other locations around the country.
Cheers
I looked them up my nearest is the one you mention at Bladen, I need to get my act together and sort out all the parts to be done, been wondering about having the front hubs done too did a swivel ball last year but the hubs are a but scabby.
 
Yeah, it's best to collect a lot if stuff and take it all at once. Just needs a bit of forward planning. I've been to Franklin's three times ! It's about 30 miles from me too:oops:
There's bound to be somewhere nearer where you are.
 
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