Rear wheel hub lock nut - Stuck !

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MickeyD

New Member
Posts
17
Hello all.
Having some real issues removing the rear wheel hub locking nut.
got the correct hub box spanner etc, but tried with a piece of rod thru the box spanner, but the rod bent.

I am missing something , the plate behind is all bent back etc to allow box spanner to fit on ok.

Put some Wd40 on and leaving over night to have another go tomorrow but should it be that hard to remove?

Any other tips on getting it off, do I need to do anything else because at the moment it ain't moving !:confused:

cheers
 
Longer, stronger rod on the box spanner? You could try putting a sharp chisel on the corner of the nut and use a big hammer. The shock may release it. If the previous owner didn't have a box spanner there may already be some notches there....
 
Is it the inner or outer nut? The inner shouldn't be too tight as I would imagine it's a taper roller bearing and a little 'float' should have been allowed. If its the outer, possibly it's been over tightened and damaged the thread.
I've sometimes found 'shock and unlock' spray to work when wd40 has struggled.
 
Land Raver said:
Is it the inner or outer nut? The inner shouldn't be too tight as I would imagine it's a taper roller bearing and a little 'float' should have been allowed. If its the outer, possibly it's been over tightened and damaged the thread.
I've sometimes found 'shock and unlock' spray to work when wd40 has struggled.
Click to expand...
little end float isnt a good thing,
 
MickeyD said:
Hello all.
Having some real issues removing the rear wheel hub locking nut.
got the correct hub box spanner etc, but tried with a piece of rod thru the box spanner, but the rod bent.

I am missing something , the plate behind is all bent back etc to allow box spanner to fit on ok.

Put some Wd40 on and leaving over night to have another go tomorrow but should it be that hard to remove?

Any other tips on getting it off, do I need to do anything else because at the moment it ain't moving !:confused:

cheers
Click to expand...
split nut with a chisel directly over slot in stub axle
 
For the future, you can buy 52mm sockets, so you could use a breaker bar or torque them.

Also you can buy penetrating oil which is better than wd40.

i'd do what james says.
 
Sorted...no movement all day yesterday using box spanner and various tommy bars.
This morning tried once more no movement.
Got big hammer and big cold chisel, first hit slight movement second hit loose enough to turn with fingers. Job done.
Big hammer sorted it
 
MickeyD said:
Sorted...no movement all day yesterday using box spanner and various tommy bars.
This morning tried once more no movement.
Got big hammer and big cold chisel, first hit slight movement second hit loose enough to turn with fingers. Job done.
Big hammer sorted it
Click to expand...

Told ya!
 
Land Raver said:
I was always told that you should back off the nut about half a flat when setting up taper roller bearing to allow for expansion when the bearing gets hot? Does tightening not cause premature wear james?
Click to expand...
the bearing should have a slight preload asthey are taper bearings,you achieve that by just removing endfloat with first nut when you tighten second nut fully it applies just enough preload,as a rule of thumb 1 thou preload per inch diameter,wheel bearings dont get hot enough for expansion issues and apart from poor lube, freeplay causes damage
 
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