Freelander 1 Rear wheel bearing with hub on car

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andyfreelandy

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member
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Location
Devon
Hi, anyone done this?

If you take out the bottom tie bar bolts will the hub pull forward enough to get driveshaft out and clear of hub??

Looking to help a mate and all bolts look horrid and rusty along with the brake cylinder bolts and corroded alloy wheel brake cylinder thread. All of which are ok now but will fail when disturbed.

Probably no easy way but thought I'd ask. I have the right size presses once the shaft is out.
 
Last edited:
The garage I was forced to use by unfortunate circumstance used that approach on my 2005 rear right wheel bearing replacement a few weeks ago. BTW, I couldn`t believe how much noise a bearing "starting" to fail created in the cabin.

Good luck!
 
Thanks. Can you remember what they unbolted to get the driveshaft out. The minimum and hopefully not the brake lines !!??

Thanks
 
andyfreelandy said:
Thanks. Can you remember what they unbolted to get the driveshaft out. The minimum and hopefully not the brake lines !!??

Thanks
Click to expand...
I wish I could be more certain, but I am certain that they didn`t bleed the brakes or top up fluid so I presume the brake line was not touched. They did have to gently strain this and that and I saw reasonable use of the polythene faced mallet at one point. They faffed around to get clearances, the floor showed a lot of easing oil and then they reset my wheel geometry. Maybe that is a clue?!

They did the job in about 1.5 hours which for folks who had NEVER worked on a LR was quite acceptable to me. Getting any garage in France to do the work is tough enough and I have been lucky enough to find people who ask if they can take a pragmatic (i.e. not rip me off) approach. I get my workshop back in 3 months or so fortunately.
 
It can be done.

Undo hub nut.
Loosen trailing arm to hub bolt. No need to do more than a couple of turns.
Undo and remove trailing arm to chassis bolt and let arm hang.
Undo lower arm to subframe bolts x2.
Unbolt handbrake cable clip to subframe to allow slack.
Hub then pulls out enough to get drive shaft out.
Bungee driveshaft out of way.
Refit lower arm to subframe bolts loosely.
Drift out hub and remove circip and pull out bearing.

No need to remove ABS sensor either if you are careful. As the old bearing is scrap just pull out using the inner race with a smaller pull plate on the inside.

Press in new bearing and refit driveshaft.

2.5 hours.
 
Last edited:
Well done. I've only ever done it with a press, which makes the job easy, but the hub assembly does need to be stripped and taken too the press.
 
andyfreelandy said:
It can be done.

Undo hub nut.
Loosen trailing arm to hub bolt. No need to do more than a couple of turns.
Undo and remove trailing arm to chassis bolt and let arm hang.
Undo lower arm to subframe bolts x2.
Unbolt handbrake cable clip to subframe to allow slack.
Hub then pulls out enough to get drive shaft out.
Bungee driveshaft out of way.
Refit lower arm to subframe bolts loosely.
Drift out hub and remove circip and pull out bearing.

No need to remove ABS sensor either if you are careful. As the old bearing is scrap just pull out using the inner race with a smaller pull plate on the inside.

Press in new bearing and refit driveshaft.

2.5 hours.
Click to expand...
I am very pleased to hear you got it done and 2.5 hours! Well done.
 
andyfreelandy said:
It can be done.

Undo hub nut.
Loosen trailing arm to hub bolt. No need to do more than a couple of turns.
Undo and remove trailing arm to chassis bolt and let arm hang.
Undo lower arm to subframe bolts x2.
Unbolt handbrake cable clip to subframe to allow slack.
Hub then pulls out enough to get drive shaft out.
Bungee driveshaft out of way.
Refit lower arm to subframe bolts loosely.
Drift out hub and remove circip and pull out bearing.

No need to remove ABS sensor either if you are careful. As the old bearing is scrap just pull out using the inner race with a smaller pull plate on the inside.

Press in new bearing and refit driveshaft.

2.5 hours.
Click to expand...
Impressive work Andy.
 
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