Rear diff drive flange

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A

Adam25

New Member
Posts
5
Location
west midlands
Is the flange removable on the rear diff of a 300tdi? Can this swapped for a 200tdi item to eliminate the rubber doughnut? And would the 200tdi prop fit?
 
yes ,yes, yes,but you need spacer out of 200 diff to fit before flange ,spigot can be pulled out or wound out using 8mm bolt in center
 
my advice is , dont **** about with pulleys or a 8mm nut in the centre of the spigot, get some serious heat on the job, and the centre pin comes out with a pair of grips within 5 mins. did mine this morning.
 
1spin said:
my advice is , dont **** about with pulleys or a 8mm nut in the centre of the spigot, get some serious heat on the job, and the centre pin comes out with a pair of grips within 5 mins. did mine this morning.
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thats a great idea ,heating pinion will alter its strength ,thats why theres a 8 mm threaded hole
 
jamesmartin said:
thats a great idea ,heating pinion will alter its strength ,thats why theres a 8 mm threaded hole
Click to expand...

what a load of bull... you dont need the centre pin do you, if your fitting a 200 flange. and you also heat around the outer flange. i had a flange puller on mine first and it wouldnt move at all. you need heat to free the lock tight. its really going to alter the strength of it "not." if we all did the job by the landrover manual , or vw or whatever you would never get anything done, sometimes heat is needed you should no that , if you work in the motor trade.:D when you look at the link above , all that ****ing around , how long is that going to take...... mine was done in under 5 mins with heat.
 
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Although the 97-98 V8 D1s have the four bolt flange as standard held by an M12 bolt they don't have the 'spacer' so how did they get away with that, it looks like according to my parts book they have a different diff housing to diesels and the earler V8s.

I do wonder why these "doughnuts" cause problems, could it be because of the harsh diesel engine but then D2s still have them fitted, my old RRC had one without any problems in the 100,000mls and 10 years I owned it. :D
 
1spin said:
what a load of bull... you dont need the centre pin do you, if your fitting a 200 flange. and you also heat around the outer flange. i had a flange puller on mine first and it wouldnt move at all. you need heat to free the lock tight. its really going to alter the strength of it "not." if we all did the job by the landrover manual , or vw or whatever you would never get anything done, sometimes heat is needed you should no that , if you work in the motor trade.:D when you look at the link above , all that ****ing around , how long is that going to take...... mine was done in under 5 mins with heat.
Click to expand...
i know more than you do by the sounds of it ,does depend how much heat is used but engineers dont heat parts that have been heat treated like pinions etc heat from flange travels through to it,spigot will come out in less time with slide hammer or winding long set screw through it than time needed to heat it,diff flanges themselves usually just pull off ,go and read up about engineering ,i ve worked in the trade for a good few years and do know how to get things done quick and right ,theres a big difference between those that have knowledge and those that dont latter been more prevalent nowadays as people dont learn engineering principles behind the trade,for instance when i did my apprentice ship we had to make and heat harden a cold chisel so we understood how it worked
 
discool said:
Although the 97-98 V8 D1s have the four bolt flange as standard held by an M12 bolt they don't have the 'spacer' so how did they get away with that, it looks like according to my parts book they have a different diff housing to diesels and the earler V8s.

I do wonder why these "doughnuts" cause problems, could it be because of the harsh diesel engine but then D2s still have them fitted, my old RRC had one without any problems in the 100,000mls and 10 years I owned it. :D
Click to expand...
spacer is built into 3 bolt flange ,4 bolt doesnt so needs spacer,v8 diff is the same as diesel,its the same housing ,its just thickness of the casting where the 10 studs securing it to axle case early had 4 shorter studs later 10 the same size ,and later used roll pin securing adjuster nuts for diff carrier ,parts books arent allways a 100% correct in every detail,doughnut doesnt give that much prolblem, but on a 15 year old vehicle you can expect stuff to be worn
 
jamesmartin said:
spacer is built into 3 bolt flange ,4 bolt doesnt so needs spacer,v8 diff is the same as diesel,its the same housing ,its just thickness of the casting where the 10 studs securing it to axle case early had 4 shorter studs later 10 the same size ,and later used roll pin securing adjuster nuts for diff carrier ,parts books arent allways a 100% correct in every detail,doughnut doesnt give that much prolblem, but on a 15 year old vehicle you can expect stuff to be worn
Click to expand...

I have the pinion bearing spacer Pt no 539745 as shown in the book between the oil seal and bearing but that's it. :)
I didn't think it was a thick as the one shown in the link, anyway that must have remained in the diff as all I had to do is removed the flange to replace the pinion oil seal, and hopefully never to go there again.:)

I still have and use my chisel and a center punch that I made, but that was at school. :D
 
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jamesmartin said:
i know more than you do by the sounds of it ,does depend how much heat is used but engineers dont heat parts that have been heat treated like pinions etc heat from flange travels through to it,spigot will come out in less time with slide hammer or winding long set screw through it than time needed to heat it,diff flanges themselves usually just pull off ,go and read up about engineering ,i ve worked in the trade for a good few years and do know how to get things done quick and right ,theres a big difference between those that have knowledge and those that dont latter been more prevalent nowadays as people dont learn engineering principles behind the trade,for instance when i did my apprentice ship we had to make and heat harden a cold chisel so we understood how it worked
Click to expand...

calm down dear , no need to get your knickers in a twist.:D do you really think i heated it up to glowing point :D gentle heat. will come out in less time with a slide hammer, your having a laugh. like i said, i had a flange pulling tool on it first and no joy ;) the flange has been on 15 year ;) so then the nxt step was heat... what do you think i was going to do, just give up and leave it cuz the by the book way didnt work.... some times i wonder why i come on a forum , cuz people like you who no it all, just want to twist peoples words, and try and make them look stupid.. if i was a total prick i wouldnt be building E type jaguars for a living....:D HAVE A NICE DAY :)
 
1spin said:
calm down dear , no need to get your knickers in a twist.:D do you really think i heated it up to glowing point :D gentle heat. will come out in less time with a slide hammer, your having a laugh. like i said, i had a flange pulling tool on it first and no joy ;) the flange has been on 15 year ;) so then the nxt step was heat... what do you think i was going to do, just give up and leave it cuz the by the book way didnt work.... some times i wonder why i come on a forum , cuz people like you who no it all, just want to twist peoples words, and try and make them look stupid.. if i was a total prick i wouldnt be building E type jaguars for a living....:D HAVE A NICE DAY :)
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lol so why wasnt this advise in the reply to the op?

some "serious heat" as you put it, to me is "cherry red"
 
Sorry to drag this one up again, but to clarify.

I want to fit a 300tdi 4 bolt discovery flange to a 300tdi 3 bolt diff, Will I need a spacer?

This is for my defender by the way. Having just won the battle of removing the flange I need to know before pulling the flange of the vehicle to do the swop.

Thanks
 
yes generally unless you bought later one with it built on ,you can see by comparing flange with the 3 bolt one that has spacer built on to it
 
Gwynn Lewis does a flange kit, then you just need a 200tdi prop

Make sure you ring him tho instead of buying stuff off his eBay, as its alot more expensive. Great bloke
 
Right, I may sound like a pillock but why would this necessitate a prop change. Will it shorten it too much due to spacing it out?

I have a 300tdi defender, not a 200.
 
minimole23 said:
Right, I may sound like a pillock but why would this necessitate a prop change. Will it shorten it too much due to spacing it out?

I have a 300tdi defender, not a 200.
Click to expand...

Donut flanges are 3bolt. You want to change it to a non donut flange and they are 4 bolt

My prop cost me £5 second hand
 
1spin said:
calm down dear , no need to get your knickers in a twist.:D do you really think i heated it up to glowing point :D gentle heat. will come out in less time with a slide hammer, your having a laugh. like i said, i had a flange pulling tool on it first and no joy ;) the flange has been on 15 year ;) so then the nxt step was heat... what do you think i was going to do, just give up and leave it cuz the by the book way didnt work.... some times i wonder why i come on a forum , cuz people like you who no it all, just want to twist peoples words, and try and make them look stupid.. if i was a total prick i wouldnt be building E type jaguars for a living....:D HAVE A NICE DAY :)
Click to expand...

Dear sir
Could you please tell me what E type jaguars you have built as i would rather steer clear of them, going by the way you approched your prop shaft.
 
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