rear chassis rust

While changing the diff oil I noticed that the chassis from the axle back is covered in thin rust.

pressure washed the lot off and found most of it is covered in scale.

What did they not do when they made it!

Plastered rust remover over the whole lot, will wash that off in the morning.

What is a good basic paint to gunge over the metal to provide some protection?

Something from Hammerite?

Something from Finnegans?

I will Waxoyl next weekend when fully dry I use warm diluted with white spirit applied with an air compressor.

I will be concentrating on axle back due to rust.

MJI said:

While changing the diff oil I noticed that the chassis from the axle back is covered in thin rust.

pressure washed the lot off and found most of it is covered in scale.

What did they not do when they made it!

Plastered rust remover over the whole lot, will wash that off in the morning.

What is a good basic paint to gunge over the metal to provide some protection?

Something from Hammerite?

Something from Finnegans?

I will Waxoyl next weekend when fully dry I use warm diluted with white spirit applied with an air compressor.

I will be concentrating on axle back due to rust.

Click to expand...

Once the rust has started your doomed.rumour has it all chassis were built in 98 probably stood in a field.
have a look at my post.http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/my-rear-chassis-repairs-233304.html
wasnt bad to look at until we started preping.

cambridgecockney said:

Once the rust has started your doomed.rumour has it all chassis were built in 98 probably stood in a field.
have a look at my post.http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/my-rear-chassis-repairs-233304.html
wasnt bad to look at until we started preping.

Click to expand...

I think "Doomed"is a bit fatalistic. If that was case, there would hardly be a vehicle older than 5yrs on the road. Just get it treated, and keep on top of it. Even if it's bad, nothing is beyond repair, If you have the know how, or deep pockets...

Well I used to run a 16 year old hot hatch as a daily driver and Waxoyl and welding kept it going.

The killer in the end was not rust, nor engine parts (very reliable), suspension parts (use forest parts), interior (scrap yards), but things like cables - special order was very tiresome, molegrips on clutch cables aghhhhh, and fianlly company take overs Why should the Frogs be interested in cars made in close UK factories over 1 owner ago.

After the end of Rootes ownership I went to GM V cars, diluted Waxoyl again was good stuff, was road accident in the end not rust.

Next weekend it will be raise up the rear end and fill those box sections.

Well the B&D pressure washer is a poor buy a few duff bits so may need to take it back or get some different parts, the hose adaptor keeps blowing off!

But rear chassis is now plastered in underseal where possible and will be waxoyled when practical

MJI said:

While changing the diff oil I noticed that the chassis from the axle back is covered in thin rust.

pressure washed the lot off and found most of it is covered in scale.

What did they not do when they made it!

Plastered rust remover over the whole lot, will wash that off in the morning.

What is a good basic paint to gunge over the metal to provide some protection?

Something from Hammerite?

Something from Finnegans?

I will Waxoyl next weekend when fully dry I use warm diluted with white spirit applied with an air compressor.

I will be concentrating on axle back due to rust.

Click to expand...

I have just spent the weekend working on the chassis on our TD5.

Gave the whole thing a good clean up with wire brushes and sanding discs, from the front radius arm mountings all the way to the back.

Found four areas where the rust went right through, one on each side on the bottom of the rails where the rear towing hoops are attached, and a couple of small areas on the outside of the o/s rail by the tow-bar mount. These were all fairly isolated, so I managed to cut out the rust and weld in small repair sections.

Treated the whole thing with FE 123 rust converter. Sprayed Dinitrol cavity wax on the outside, and treated the inside using a probe attached to the rustproofing gun. Then finished the outside with Dinitrol black under-body wax. It looks so much better.

We've had the car for over 7 years now, so I really wish I had done all the rust treatment then as a preventative measure but I was just too busy with other things.

meego said:

I think "Doomed"is a bit fatalistic. If that was case, there would hardly be a vehicle older than 5yrs on the road. Just get it treated, and keep on top of it. Even if it's bad, nothing is beyond repair, If you have the know how, or deep pockets...

Click to expand...

Theirs a member of the D2boysclub just posted re his chassis. he has treated inside and out for the past 7 years and its bad.dont know if you can open if not members.
D2BC.co.uk • Login

cambridgecockney said:

Theirs a member of the D2boysclub just posted re his chassis. he has treated inside and out for the past 7 years and its bad.dont know if you can open if not members.
D2BC.co.uk • Login

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Yeah, thats mime.

Before I bashed the crap out of it with a cold chisel it just looked like surface rust.

They really do just rot from the inside out.
Seems like its coming to all D2,s.

50 pence said:

Yeah, thats mime.

Before I bashed the crap out of it with a cold chisel it just looked like surface rust.

They really do just rot from the inside out.
Seems like its coming to all D2,s.

Click to expand...

Yep had new legs and crossmember on mine last year.thinking of galv chassis but already spent near a grand just on legs and crossmember and welding.