Disco 1 Rear caliper replacement

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fozt

fozt

Active Member
Posts
316
Location
Kent
Hi,

One of my rear calipers is leaking fluid, so i'm going to change it next weekend.

I have braided extended hoses, is there any way i can clamp these or stop them spewing my existing fluid everywhere?

If i just change 1 caliper do i need to bleed all of the brakes (assuming i can't clamp the hose)?

Also, how much brake fluid should i have just in case?

Thanks!
Foz
 
fozt said:
Hi,

One of my rear calipers is leaking fluid, so i'm going to change it next weekend.

I have braided extended hoses, is there any way i can clamp these or stop them spewing my existing fluid everywhere?

If i just change 1 caliper do i need to bleed all of the brakes (assuming i can't clamp the hose)?

Also, how much brake fluid should i have just in case?

Thanks!
Foz
Click to expand...

Just clamp as normal may deform the braid a little but you should be able to re form it. Or you could fill the new caliper and so long as you disconnect from old and connect to new fairly quickly you won't lose much fluid, then just bleed that corner.
 
wammers said:
Just clamp as normal may deform the braid a little but you should be able to re form it. Or you could fill the new caliper and so long as you disconnect from old and connect to new fairly quickly you won't lose much fluid, then just bleed that corner.
Click to expand...

Great thank you.

Can I just fill the new caliper by removing the bleed nipple and filling from there?

Thanks
 
fozt said:
Great thank you.

Can I just fill the new caliper by removing the bleed nipple and filling from there?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yep either fill via inlet with bleeder open or through open bleeder other way. Just gives you a start you may need some rags about to soak up spillage as you play with it.
 
fozt said:
One of my rear calipers is leaking fluid
Click to expand...
Are not rear calipers on a D1 hard piped, are you referring to the flex hose that "tees" across the diff into both rear calipers?
Probably better to do as said above than to "crimp" off the flex hose, a 1/4" id blanking cap is useful to blank the flared end of the pipe after the flare nut in the caliper is undone and caliper removed, this will hold the fluid in the system and save a big mess, make sure the brake fluid reservoir is full to the max before undoing the line, have the bleeder open on your replacement caliper and as you reconnect the line, whilst you are tightening things up the air will bleed out of that replacement caliper, so by the time it is all bolted and piped up you should have all the air out with no extra bleeding required and minimal mess.
 
I just use the finger of a rubber glove as a temporary bit of protection over the end of the brake line and secure it with a rubber band to hold the fluid in whilst I get things changed over. As said prefilled calipers make life a lot easier.
 
It is a really really bad idea to crimp stainless braided Teflon brake pipes like Aeroquip or Goodgidge - you will irrevocabley damage them.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I'll avoid crimping the braided hose then, and i'll buy a 1/4" blanking cap - and then i should be all sorted. I've got a few litres of brake fluid turning up too.

Cheers.
 
Making things hard as ever, just wedge brake pedal fully to floor on most things and it won't drain brake fluid
 
Gazbo said:
Portions of the open ended line lower than the master cylinder can drain all the way from the master cylinder I think you'll find, fluid out air in, back to square one.
Click to expand...

The suggestion is the master cylinder won't drain,
 
fanatic said:
The suggestion is the master cylinder won't drain,
Click to expand...
Yes agree with that, but by applying the cap to the end of the open line nothing drains so no or minimal air enters the system then the only air you end up with is a small amount, which bleeds out of the caliper bleed nipple under master cylinder reservoir head pressure, (reservoir needs to be completely full), as the flare nut is tightened, it is a simple, easy and effective method.
Many master cylinders on older vehicles fail after a caliper/cylinder job because the normal bleeding process, (pumping the pedal), pushes the cylinder piston/rubbers into areas of the cylinder bore that is sometimes rusted/pitted and is outside the normal area of it's operation, taking steps to avoid the normal bleeding process avoids this common problem, I had to learn the hard way lots of years and brake jobs ago.
 
Gazbo said:
Yes agree with that, but by applying the cap to the end of the open line nothing drains so no or minimal air enters the system then the only air you end up with is a small amount, which bleeds out of the caliper bleed nipple under master cylinder reservoir head pressure, (reservoir needs to be completely full), as the flare nut is tightened, it is a simple, easy and effective method.
Many master cylinders on older vehicles fail after a caliper/cylinder job because the normal bleeding process, (pumping the pedal), pushes the cylinder piston/rubbers into areas of the cylinder bore that is sometimes rusted/pitted and is outside the normal area of it's operation, taking steps to avoid the normal bleeding process avoids this common problem, I had to learn the hard way lots of years and brake jobs ago.
Click to expand...
Your teaching me to suck eggs
 
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