Re: Tranny problems? Woman, help appreciated

in rec.autos.4x4,
Stacey ([email protected]) wrote:
>Eugene <[email protected]> kindly wrote:
>
>> Differentials don't break often and are not nearly as complex as a
>> transmission. I'd go to the junk yard and find a low milage wrecked truck
>> or car with the same differential and swap it.
>
>Thanks, but it was regeared (by a previous owner) due to the larger
>tires that were put on it, so I don't think a swap will do me any
>good.

A thought.... It is possible that the problem was the diff all the way
along, have you pulled out the 3rd member yet and see what the ring and
pinion in the diff look like? That should be your first step. Chances
are good that if when it was put in, and it was setup wrong, something as
bad
as a tooth could have broken and gotten stuck in the gears. That would
have definatly caused you not to move, but with enough preasure could have
broken it, causing you to go forward.
I had this happen to a friend of mine. Something to look at, get the rear
end fixed up first, chances are you are looking at bearings and a new
ring/pinion at least, a rear end from a junk yard, and get the correct
grears installed by a profesional, goto a reputable transmission shop, not
your every-day mechanic. It's possible that there have been metal flakes
in there for a while, that is what could have caused your seals to wear
out.

~Brian

<[email protected]> kindly wrote:

> in rec.autos.4x4,
> Stacey ([email protected]) wrote:
> >Eugene <[email protected]> kindly wrote:
> >
> >> Differentials don't break often and are not nearly as complex as a
> >> transmission. I'd go to the junk yard and find a low milage wrecked truck
> >> or car with the same differential and swap it.
> >
> >Thanks, but it was regeared (by a previous owner) due to the larger
> >tires that were put on it, so I don't think a swap will do me any
> >good.
>
> A thought.... It is possible that the problem was the diff all the way
> along, have you pulled out the 3rd member yet and see what the ring and
> pinion in the diff look like? That should be your first step.
> Chances are good that if when it was put in, and it was setup wrong,

[in this case it was re-geared by a reputable outfit "All 4-Wheel
Drive" back in '95, so I doubt setup would be likely]

> something as bad as a tooth could have broken and gotten
> stuck in the gears. That would have definatly caused you not to move,
> but with enough preasure could have broken it, causing you to go forward.
> I had this happen to a friend of mine. Something to look at, get the rear
> end fixed up first, chances are you are looking at bearings and a new
> ring/pinion at least, a rear end from a junk yard, and get the correct
> grears installed by a profesional, goto a reputable transmission shop, not
> your every-day mechanic. It's possible that there have been metal flakes
> in there for a while, that is what could have caused your seals to wear
> out.

Thanks Brian. Those are all good points.

Stacey

I might add that you should get at lest one more quote - that $2400
price sounds a tad steep for a rear end re-build, even it it's totaled
except for the housing.

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 23:22:27 UTC <[email protected]> wrote:

> in rec.autos.4x4,
> Stacey ([email protected]) wrote:
> >Eugene <[email protected]> kindly wrote:
> >
> >> Differentials don't break often and are not nearly as complex as a
> >> transmission. I'd go to the junk yard and find a low milage wrecked truck
> >> or car with the same differential and swap it.
> >
> >Thanks, but it was regeared (by a previous owner) due to the larger
> >tires that were put on it, so I don't think a swap will do me any
> >good.
>
> A thought.... It is possible that the problem was the diff all the way
> along, have you pulled out the 3rd member yet and see what the ring and
> pinion in the diff look like? That should be your first step. Chances
> are good that if when it was put in, and it was setup wrong, something as
> bad
> as a tooth could have broken and gotten stuck in the gears. That would
> have definatly caused you not to move, but with enough preasure could have
> broken it, causing you to go forward.
> I had this happen to a friend of mine. Something to look at, get the rear
> end fixed up first, chances are you are looking at bearings and a new
> ring/pinion at least, a rear end from a junk yard, and get the correct
> grears installed by a profesional, goto a reputable transmission shop, not
> your every-day mechanic. It's possible that there have been metal flakes
> in there for a while, that is what could have caused your seals to wear
> out.
>
> ~Brian


--
Will Honea <[email protected]>

"Will Honea" <[email protected]> kindly wrote:

> I might add that you should get at lest one more quote - that $2400
> price sounds a tad steep for a rear end re-build, even it it's totaled
> except for the housing.

I was wondering what a ballpark was on rebuilding the trans -- if it
would be between $1000-$2400. Turns out it would run me about $1900.
My mechanic said rebuilding the diff would run $700-$800, but I have
the original recepit for when a previous owner had it regeared, and he
paid $1100. That was from a 4-Wheel Drive outfit though, and they're
usually more. This guy is ASC and my Dad's used him for years, so I
trust him. But we'll see... he's baffled b/c the truck drives and
feels great. No signs of a bad trans, no whine from the rear.

Stacey

Any rebuild depends a lot on what has to be replaced. A transmission
that just needs bearing, syncros and soft parts is a whole lot cheaper
than on that needs gear(s). I've seen cluster gears that cost as much
a the whole soft rebuild. Same for the rear end - if the gears are
gone it's gonna cost you!

That said, opening the rear end up so that you can actually SEE what
the problems are is pretty simple and quick. I don't know what typw
diff you have. It could just involve dropping a cover plate or you
might have to pull the third member which is a little more work but
for the bucks involved it's well worth the look-see.

Given the expanded description of what the mech was talking about, the
prices sound fairly decent. I was just thinking that since you are,
after all, of the female persuasion, some one saw you coming <g>. My
daughter gets that crap all the time -until they find out SHE was the
one who rebuilt the front end and swapped the engine.

I will tell you what I told her when she had problems with her ride.
Take the cost of a new vehicle that would satisfy you as well as this
one. Figure that you will get very little for this one in trade. Now
figure what the one you have is worth if it's repaired. Allow for the
inevitable repairs and upkeep on a 13 year old car. In her case, she
figured that she broke even after 2 years when she figured the
payments on a new(er) truck versus what she had to put into hers and
that was 4 years ago - she won that one. Cases will vary depending on
the shape of the one you have but you Dad and the mechanic sound like
they can help with that. One big repair bill might still be worth it,
just take a realistic view since you seem attached to this one. My
wife's answer is a new car every so often, I just keep my old truck
plugging along.

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 16:58:26 UTC Stacey ([email protected]) wrote:

> "Will Honea" <[email protected]> kindly wrote:
>
> > I might add that you should get at lest one more quote - that $2400
> > price sounds a tad steep for a rear end re-build, even it it's totaled
> > except for the housing.
>
> I was wondering what a ballpark was on rebuilding the trans -- if it
> would be between $1000-$2400. Turns out it would run me about $1900.
> My mechanic said rebuilding the diff would run $700-$800, but I have
> the original recepit for when a previous owner had it regeared, and he
> paid $1100. That was from a 4-Wheel Drive outfit though, and they're
> usually more. This guy is ASC and my Dad's used him for years, so I
> trust him. But we'll see... he's baffled b/c the truck drives and
> feels great. No signs of a bad trans, no whine from the rear.
>
> Stacey


--
Will Honea <[email protected]>

"Will Honea" <[email protected]> kindly wrote:

> Any rebuild depends a lot on what has to be replaced. A transmission
> that just needs bearing, syncros and soft parts is a whole lot cheaper
> than on that needs gear(s). I've seen cluster gears that cost as much
> a the whole soft rebuild. Same for the rear end - if the gears are
> gone it's gonna cost you!

Good to know, thanks.

> That said, opening the rear end up so that you can actually SEE what
> the problems are is pretty simple and quick. I don't know what typw
> diff you have. It could just involve dropping a cover plate or you
> might have to pull the third member which is a little more work but
> for the bucks involved it's well worth the look-see.

It doesn't have a cover plate. I'm going to have to take the route of
driving it a month then checking the drain plug on the diff for
matter, (since we just drained and refilled it). I think it was wheel
bearing dust that got in there actually. That would fit with the
one-time noise I heard, how it went away thereafter, and that the seal
on the left wheel was bad and the diff oil had leaked in there and
washed all the grease out of the bearings... plus he could feel a bad
spot in the old wheel like one of the bearings had gone.

> Given the expanded description of what the mech was talking about, the
> prices sound fairly decent. I was just thinking that since you are,
> after all, of the female persuasion, some one saw you coming <g>.

Yup. Happens all the time. That's why I try to inform myself.

> My
> daughter gets that crap all the time -until they find out SHE was the
> one who rebuilt the front end and swapped the engine.

Great for her!! I'd love to see their expressions!

> I will tell you what I told her when she had problems with her ride.
> Take the cost of a new vehicle that would satisfy you as well as this
> one. Figure that you will get very little for this one in trade. Now
> figure what the one you have is worth if it's repaired. Allow for the
> inevitable repairs and upkeep on a 13 year old car. In her case, she
> figured that she broke even after 2 years when she figured the
> payments on a new(er) truck versus what she had to put into hers and
> that was 4 years ago - she won that one. Cases will vary depending on
> the shape of the one you have but you Dad and the mechanic sound like
> they can help with that. One big repair bill might still be worth it,
> just take a realistic view since you seem attached to this one. My
> wife's answer is a new car every so often, I just keep my old truck
> plugging along.

That was great advice. Thank you so much. I will look at all that.
http://www.tanked.netfirms.com/toy4x4.html
A pic of my little rock-stomper, if interested.

Stacey