Re: swivels - ep-90 or grease?

On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 10:20:44 +0100, Mr.Nice.
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I've just remembered that I didn't change the oil in my swivels when I
>did the rest of the oils (oops, I'm sure there was a good reason at
>the rime).
>I probably have enough ep90 to do them but I thought about that
>one-shot greases stuff I've heard about.
>
>is it silly money?
>
>the swivels were replaced (not long ago) when I bought it at the
>beginning of the year, should I just stick with the ep-90?
>
>how long does the grease stuff last?
>

A lot longer than EP90 if your seals are dodgy. I redid my swivel
bearings on a Series a couple of months ago, but I didn't have time to
change the swivel seal. Put EP90 in, it all leaked out within a week.
The grease has now been in over 2 months and holding fine.

It's not expensive, and at least you don't lose it all if the seals
get dodgy.

Alex

In article <[email protected]>, Alex wrote:
>
> A lot longer than EP90 if your seals are dodgy. I redid my swivel
> bearings on a Series a couple of months ago, but I didn't have time to
> change the swivel seal. Put EP90 in, it all leaked out within a week.
> The grease has now been in over 2 months and holding fine.
>

I thought that it wasn't suitable for series vehicles as they don't have
CV's but UJ's in the swivels, or something like that.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

On or around 16 Sep 2004 11:26:19 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>, Alex wrote:
>>
>> A lot longer than EP90 if your seals are dodgy. I redid my swivel
>> bearings on a Series a couple of months ago, but I didn't have time to
>> change the swivel seal. Put EP90 in, it all leaked out within a week.
>> The grease has now been in over 2 months and holding fine.
>>
>
>I thought that it wasn't suitable for series vehicles as they don't have
>CV's but UJ's in the swivels, or something like that.

I think it's more about the railko bushes in the top of the swivels, mind.
same argument applies to running for extended periods with disengaged FWH.

when they change from railko to rollers, I dunno. or even if they all
changed at once, almost certinaly not knowing LR.

In article <[email protected]>, Mr.Nice wrote:
>
> So how do I find out if I have these bush things in mine and therefor
> if it's ok to use the grease?
>

And what exactly is a Railko bush anyway?

Is it a plain phosphor bronze type thing?

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

On or around 16 Sep 2004 13:48:37 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>, Mr.Nice wrote:
>>
>> So how do I find out if I have these bush things in mine and therefor
>> if it's ok to use the grease?
>>
>
>And what exactly is a Railko bush anyway?
>
>Is it a plain phosphor bronze type thing?

summat like that. not sure what it's made of and why it's called railko.
Series book mentions nowt else, RaRo book only taper rollers for swivels. I
suspect but don't know 100% that all 90/110 use taper rollers.

you can always pull the top swivel pin and look


saw my old 110 parked outside the local garage today, sporting some RaRo
wheels shod with big knobbly SAT-style (probably Nankang) tyres (no
accounting for taste) while the chap who had it's 90 was also there wearing
the 15" 8-spokes that were on mine.

Austin Shackles wrote:

>
> summat like that. not sure what it's made of and why it's called railko.


Made by Railko and looks a bit like bakelite or something. Railko still
exist and still make bushes but all their modern stuff seems to be flash
plastic.


--
EMB
change two to the number to reply

>>>I thought that it wasn't suitable for series vehicles as they don't have
>>>CV's but UJ's in the swivels, or something like that.
>>
>>I think it's more about the railko bushes in the top of the swivels, mind.
>>same argument applies to running for extended periods with disengaged FWH.
>>
>>when they change from railko to rollers, I dunno. or even if they all
>>changed at once, almost certinaly not knowing LR.
>
>So how do I find out if I have these bush things in mine and therefor
>if it's ok to use the grease?
>
>the credit card is standing by here.....
>

Only very early Series II's have a cone bearing in the top of the
swivels, most have Rialko bushes. The Rialko bush is best described as
a friction lining, it looks and feels similar to clutch/brake linings.

The way to check is the steering arms which connect to the drag
link/track rod. If they are attached to the top of the swivel, it's
early, with cone bearings. Attached to the bottom of the swivels, it's
late, with rialko bushes. If yours is Series IIa then it should have
rialko bushes. I think the early ones went out around 1962/3.
Apparently, this change occoured from axles numbered 141107339 on
(88") and 151108875 on (109") for RHD, and 144104520 on (88") and
154103275 on (109") for LHD, should you be able to find a serial
number on the axle

The later bushes do not need lubrication, in fact if you look at the
design, it's practically impossible to get any EP90 into them from
inside the swivel anyway.

Alex

In message <[email protected]>
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:

> On or around 16 Sep 2004 13:48:37 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >In article <[email protected]>, Mr.Nice wrote:
> >>
> >> So how do I find out if I have these bush things in mine and therefor
> >> if it's ok to use the grease?
> >>
> >
> >And what exactly is a Railko bush anyway?
> >
> >Is it a plain phosphor bronze type thing?
>
> summat like that. not sure what it's made of and why it's called railko.
> Series book mentions nowt else, RaRo book only taper rollers for swivels. I
> suspect but don't know 100% that all 90/110 use taper rollers.
>
www.railko.co.uk may help - though they seem to specialise in plastice
bearings these days.

> you can always pull the top swivel pin and look

The only sure way in the absence of axle numbers!

>
>
> saw my old 110 parked outside the local garage today, sporting some RaRo
> wheels shod with big knobbly SAT-style (probably Nankang) tyres (no
> accounting for taste) while the chap who had it's 90 was also there wearing
> the 15" 8-spokes that were on mine.
>

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
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In message <[email protected]>
Alex <[email protected]> wrote:

<snip Railko bush info>
>
> The later bushes do not need lubrication, in fact if you look at the
> design, it's practically impossible to get any EP90 into them from
> inside the swivel anyway.
>

The bush housing material is oil-absorbant - ideally the housing and
thrust washer should be soaked in oil for 12 hours before fitting.

> Alex

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

In article <[email protected]>, Alex
<[email protected]> writes
>A lot longer than EP90 if your seals are dodgy. I redid my swivel
>bearings on a Series a couple of months ago, but I didn't have time to
>change the swivel seal. Put EP90 in, it all leaked out within a week.
>The grease has now been in over 2 months and holding fine.
>
>It's not expensive, and at least you don't lose it all if the seals
>get dodgy.



If it leaked EP90 out then it will be leaking water IN.

Better to fix all your seals first and then use the grease.
--
Marc Draper

Forsale

Landrover Defender 90 300tdi county hardtop 1996 72K
Landrover Discovery comercial 300tdi S reg 70k
Landrover Discovery Comercial 300tdi R reg 62k
Toyota Hilux surf 2.4 AW/AC/EW/SR

Super winch X9 + genuine Landrover fitting kits for 200 Disco.

In article <[email protected]>, Mr.Nice wrote:

>
> Mine is later than these at 1984, it's an early 110.
> I'll see if I can get the axle number and look at the steering arms.
>

That's probably the best way, none of us are being much help are we!

Good luck finding the axle number, I couldn't find mine. I've only looked
in the area where its meant to be and there's no sign of it. Wire brushed
the area, still no sign. I gave up and trusted the parts mans judgement.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

In article <[email protected]>, Mr.Nice wrote:
>
> It's supposed to be on top of the left hand axle tube, but it's
> raining...... (
>

Supposed to be yes, reckon mine must've washed off or something!

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

On or around Fri, 17 Sep 2004 13:37:30 +0100, Mr.Nice.
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Twas 17 Sep 2004 11:40:51 GMT when Simon Barr <[email protected]> put
>finger to keyboard producing:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>, Mr.Nice wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Mine is later than these at 1984, it's an early 110.
>>> I'll see if I can get the axle number and look at the steering arms.
>>>
>>
>>That's probably the best way, none of us are being much help are we!
>>
>>Good luck finding the axle number, I couldn't find mine. I've only looked
>>in the area where its meant to be and there's no sign of it. Wire brushed
>>the area, still no sign. I gave up and trusted the parts mans judgement.
>
>It's supposed to be on top of the left hand axle tube, but it's
>raining...... (

it was on mine. not easy to find under all the crud. and beware of the
thing about it having a letter on the end, mine had a "B" which I misread as
an "8" and therefore ordered the wrong CV joint for it, buggrit.

On or around 17 Sep 2004 13:37:44 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>, Mr.Nice wrote:
>>
>> It's supposed to be on top of the left hand axle tube, but it's
>> raining...... (
>>
>
>Supposed to be yes, reckon mine must've washed off or something!

if the axle casing is very rusty it could be rusted off, otherwise it's
stamped on there. I forget which of front or back, though. might've been
back, I know I had trouble finding it initially.

In article <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around 17 Sep 2004 13:37:44 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>Supposed to be yes, reckon mine must've washed off or something!
>
> if the axle casing is very rusty it could be rusted off, otherwise it's
> stamped on there. I forget which of front or back, though. might've been
> back, I know I had trouble finding it initially.

My axle isn't too rusty. I tried wire brushing the area where it's supposed
to be but couldn't see a thing.

Manual reckons it should be on the front LHS on the upper bit of the axle
tube, so did the parts man. I'll take a look round the back too.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

On or around 20 Sep 2004 08:21:36 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles wrote:
>> On or around 17 Sep 2004 13:37:44 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
>> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>>
>>>Supposed to be yes, reckon mine must've washed off or something!
>>
>> if the axle casing is very rusty it could be rusted off, otherwise it's
>> stamped on there. I forget which of front or back, though. might've been
>> back, I know I had trouble finding it initially.
>
>My axle isn't too rusty. I tried wire brushing the area where it's supposed
>to be but couldn't see a thing.
>
>Manual reckons it should be on the front LHS on the upper bit of the axle
>tube, so did the parts man. I'll take a look round the back too.

I've an idea mine was somewhere it "shouldn't" have been. certainly was
there though, when I eventually found it.