Truckcab79
Member
- Posts
- 15
- Location
- Borehamwood
Bought my raptor dash last Christmas. No rush to fit it until I removed my truckcab top at the start of summer. Previously my stereo and speakers had been housed in a roof mounted enclosure.
Finally found time to fit it today.
Thought I'd post a thread to help others and to record my progress. Unfortunately all my previous work and 3000 posts were lost when lanrovernet forum disappeared. Great shame.
Anyway I had looked in vain for anything approaching a how-to specifically for a series, and the raptor dash instructions are basic. All I did know was that in a series it is sometimes necessary to bend the gearstick. Here's a real-life fitting walk thorough.
Before starting this is what I had:
As you can see had previously fitted hazard light switch and 12v power socket.
First job is to cut the supplied template and fix it in place using the existing bolt holes. Paper template supplied. You need to stick it to plywood, or something with minim flex. I used rigid foam board as I had some lying around.
Then I taped around it with silver duct tape to provide a clean cut line.
Stanley knife carefully cuts the foam away.
Then 1mm cutting disc in angle grinder very carefully on the inside edge if tape, finishing off corners with hacksaw. Then file and paint cut edges.
I cannot believe that any original series gearstick will clear a raptor dash. In my case it actually sat inside the housing.
Instructions say to lift it on its splines and turn it round (instructions clearly for a defender), or heat up and bend. In my case I don't own any oxy kit so it was unbolted, into the vice and bent with an 8ft scaffolds tube even then it wasn't easy. Don't underestimate the amount of work in getting the gear-lever out. I had to take out one floor panel, transmission tunnel, and power part of the bulkhead. A long way from the '20 minutes' raptor tell you it takes to fit. Allow half a day if you're reasonably competent. I've previously replaced footwell door pillar and outrigger on drivers side so all bolts were new and mostly stainless and came out easy. Allow longer if yours are rusted.
Anyway, that done it was time to fit. Again instructions are for defender. I found that the best way was to drill and fit two rivnuts to the panel behind the dash and fix to there.
Finally the easy bit. Thanks to careful cutting it fitted perfectly.
Nothing wired up yet, but that's a job for another day. Hope this helps someone.
Finally found time to fit it today.
Thought I'd post a thread to help others and to record my progress. Unfortunately all my previous work and 3000 posts were lost when lanrovernet forum disappeared. Great shame.
Anyway I had looked in vain for anything approaching a how-to specifically for a series, and the raptor dash instructions are basic. All I did know was that in a series it is sometimes necessary to bend the gearstick. Here's a real-life fitting walk thorough.
Before starting this is what I had:
As you can see had previously fitted hazard light switch and 12v power socket.
First job is to cut the supplied template and fix it in place using the existing bolt holes. Paper template supplied. You need to stick it to plywood, or something with minim flex. I used rigid foam board as I had some lying around.
Then I taped around it with silver duct tape to provide a clean cut line.
Stanley knife carefully cuts the foam away.
Then 1mm cutting disc in angle grinder very carefully on the inside edge if tape, finishing off corners with hacksaw. Then file and paint cut edges.
I cannot believe that any original series gearstick will clear a raptor dash. In my case it actually sat inside the housing.
Instructions say to lift it on its splines and turn it round (instructions clearly for a defender), or heat up and bend. In my case I don't own any oxy kit so it was unbolted, into the vice and bent with an 8ft scaffolds tube even then it wasn't easy. Don't underestimate the amount of work in getting the gear-lever out. I had to take out one floor panel, transmission tunnel, and power part of the bulkhead. A long way from the '20 minutes' raptor tell you it takes to fit. Allow half a day if you're reasonably competent. I've previously replaced footwell door pillar and outrigger on drivers side so all bolts were new and mostly stainless and came out easy. Allow longer if yours are rusted.
Anyway, that done it was time to fit. Again instructions are for defender. I found that the best way was to drill and fit two rivnuts to the panel behind the dash and fix to there.
Finally the easy bit. Thanks to careful cutting it fitted perfectly.
Nothing wired up yet, but that's a job for another day. Hope this helps someone.