L322 Range Rover 2011 4.4D some DTC codes

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MOTOBOY

Member
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16
Location
Moscow
Hello for all LR brothers
could you give me the feedback for the next case :I try to change BCM for Canadian light and for KM/H on the second display
make changes but not finished because have the error(see pics)
SDD 164.00 v347
do you have any ideas for the reason of this error?
And the next case with charging icons on display
voltage 13.4 when engine is ON
on the next day don't show on display but yesterday appear again
SDD tell about LIN problem
if you need extra information for this case -I try to add this material in this note
 

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As already mentioned, the HS-CAN has shut down, likely due to low voltage or programming timeout / ignition timeout.
Make sure you have the bonnet and drivers door open and the system voltage is above 12.5VDC

The LIN error is the cause of the generator warning, check the wiring, pin grip and voltage is between 9-11VDC on the LIN
 
today evening I try to read DTC code for charging problem and make screenshots

Also I try to organize power supply for problem with BCM module coding
Just the 'P' code will do, don't really need screenshots.
Make sure you have the bonnet (hood) and drivers door open, this will keep the MS_CAN active which in turn will keep the gateway and therefore HS-CAN active, always cycle the ignition before you start programming, this will reset the various timers in the modules.
 
the same situation
no result
may be it is necessary to have external power supply?
 

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Well the voltage is OK as you have the 'green' battery symbol top right, what Windows version are you using? it times out after 31 seconds, which usually indicates an interface or base OS problem.

Also, is your time zone etc. set correctly? and the time & date correct in the car?
 
Tomorrow I check the Windows version, but as I remember it is 7 version
on laptop it is true time(from the net)
I also check tomorrow that time from laptop =SDD time
what kind oof problems with interface or with OS is possible?
or could you show what's does it mean correct time zone and so on if you wrote about SDD?
where it is possible to check in SDD?
on laptop it is GMT+3hours
about green battery-it is LR battery and he is good but I hear that some control units have voltage protection and 12.5 is minimum for changes of configuration
may be this is reason too?
 
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If you're running win 7 then you'll be OK on that, x64 is better but x32 is usable, are there any updates to windows pending or in progress? that can mess with SDD. What interface cable are you using (Mongoose clone?) and have you tried a different USB port?
Do you actually have engineering mode? is the 'gold key' in the box at the left of the screen?
The time zone should be ported through from the OS, did you get any warnings about calibration file versions being old?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to remember the issues we had when using SDD in the dealership.
 
Win 7 x32 or 64- more true than W10(i will check tomorrow morning)
I use Mangoose cable(I think it is good copy from Aliexpress)
yes I have Engineering mode and for each SDD usage session I create password
Also near 10-15 days ago I update RR files from SDD base from this SDD copy and also we use patch for real time because it was proble with updates(see picture)
don't remember about USB port :always one of them or different in different session(next time I will try to use different USB port)
 

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OS-Wind 10 Pro ver.21H1
laptop time=SDD time=car time
time zone UTC+3
 

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Win 10 is likely to be your problem, you could try running in a VM, details on the last few pages of the SDD thread.
 
also I want to check idea with constant power supply (external charging system), if the same situation-try to use Windows 7
 
Win 7 x64 is the best option, it's probably quicker to use one of the VM's though.
All manufacturers stipulate 12.5VDC as the minimum for programming - with good reason.
 
It's just battery voltage 'less a bit' the voltage SDD reports is the voltage at the OBD port, due to wire sizes, there will be some volt drop from battery voltage, but not much - maybe 0.1 or 0.2V, so as long as SDD is seeing 12.7VDC at the OBD socket, the modules will be seeing at least 12.5VDC. Make sure that when you cycle the ignition you let the voltage stabilise, have heater fan & infotainment turned off etc. to minimise current draw and allow things like glow plugs to turn off before clicking the 'tick' to continue.
The BSU's specified by JLR output at 13.8VDC which is common across most manufacturers, it stops systems going into powersave and is high enough not to 'brownout' during ignition cycles.
 
It's just battery voltage 'less a bit' the voltage SDD reports is the voltage at the OBD port, due to wire sizes, there will be some volt drop from battery voltage, but not much - maybe 0.1 or 0.2V, so as long as SDD is seeing 12.7VDC at the OBD socket, the modules will be seeing at least 12.5VDC. Make sure that when you cycle the ignition you let the voltage stabilise, have heater fan & infotainment turned off etc. to minimise current draw and allow things like glow plugs to turn off before clicking the 'tick' to continue.
The BSU's specified by JLR output at 13.8VDC which is common across most manufacturers, it stops systems going into powersave and is high enough not to 'brownout' during ignition cycles.
The more I learn about modern car electronics, the more I'm happy to steer well clear.
 
It's just battery voltage 'less a bit' the voltage SDD reports is the voltage at the OBD port, due to wire sizes, there will be some volt drop from battery voltage, but not much - maybe 0.1 or 0.2V, so as long as SDD is seeing 12.7VDC at the OBD socket, the modules will be seeing at least 12.5VDC. Make sure that when you cycle the ignition you let the voltage stabilise, have heater fan & infotainment turned off etc. to minimise current draw and allow things like glow plugs to turn off before clicking the 'tick' to continue.
The BSU's specified by JLR output at 13.8VDC which is common across most manufacturers, it stops systems going into powersave and is high enough not to 'brownout' during ignition cycles.
I understand that it is necessary to use external power supply on this process
than try to use Windows 7 version
 
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