Question about buying a LR

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wellskelptedface

New Member
Posts
7
Location
scotland
Hi Guys

First post apart from the hello one so be gentle ;-)

I have a few questions if can help me look for a LR.


So looking for either D4 or RRS (post 2010) seen a few and wanted to check if being to fussy for a 10 to 12 year old LR near the 10 to 12 grand price range (in this mad climate) that does not have NASA mileage.

Last RRS I looked at the side steps would have fell off it you had stared to hard at them due to rust.

1. I know I should expect a bit of rust as not new but should I just accept that there are mentions of rust in MOT advisory's or there will be bits that are rusty and will need to get fixed as soon as drive it away as that is just how it is.

2. Timing belt and possible gearbox services are on on top of normal service history.

3. That the underside should be as dry as possible, nothing underneath should be dripping or totally caked in the black stuff and look like a coast line after a tanker crash.

4. when I use scan software I do expect some codes to come up, just not to start counting them and get a number higher than the pension age. Expect a few especially after battery issues but not on ECM for stuff like turbos and the like.

5. Body work to have the odd ding or scrape as it is out in the world of supermarket car park. I would not expect panel gaps that could loss my change down or actual large rust bubbling on the panels.

6. Inside that most if not all switches and electrical gizmebobs work and have not been used with some one that looks like they had sand paper for finger prints and wore off the switches or dials.

7. That air suspension would go rise quicker if I used a foot pump and treat things like ACE pipe replacement as when not if and factor price accordingly.

Sorry it is a long post but want to know if I am just being fussy and will never get what I want. As I say not expecting perfect and will have issue at that price point but am I expecting to much.

Cheers guys.
 
No.
If it’s all on the 1 car find another.

J
Hi thanks for getting back to me.

The last RRS I seen was not great and had most of the stuff I was asking about, but this is also from seeing a other few cars and doing a few checks online like MOT history and stuff on cars for sale. Just did not want to be to far out in my expectations.
 
Sorry it is a long post but want to know if I am just being fussy and will never get what I want. As I say not expecting perfect and will have issue at that price point but am I expecting to much.

No, it's a pile of ****e.
Find another, there's plenty out there.
If you're spending 12 grand on a 10 year old vehicle, it needs to at least have had stuff fixed as it breaks.
If not, walk away, as it will be more of a money pit than they normally are.
 
Hi Guys

First post apart from the hello one so be gentle ;-)

I have a few questions if can help me look for a LR.


So looking for either D4 or RRS (post 2010) seen a few and wanted to check if being to fussy for a 10 to 12 year old LR near the 10 to 12 grand price range (in this mad climate) that does not have NASA mileage.

Last RRS I looked at the side steps would have fell off it you had stared to hard at them due to rust.

1. I know I should expect a bit of rust as not new but should I just accept that there are mentions of rust in MOT advisory's or there will be bits that are rusty and will need to get fixed as soon as drive it away as that is just how it is.

2. Timing belt and possible gearbox services are on on top of normal service history.

3. That the underside should be as dry as possible, nothing underneath should be dripping or totally caked in the black stuff and look like a coast line after a tanker crash.

4. when I use scan software I do expect some codes to come up, just not to start counting them and get a number higher than the pension age. Expect a few especially after battery issues but not on ECM for stuff like turbos and the like.

5. Body work to have the odd ding or scrape as it is out in the world of supermarket car park. I would not expect panel gaps that could loss my change down or actual large rust bubbling on the panels.

6. Inside that most if not all switches and electrical gizmebobs work and have not been used with some one that looks like they had sand paper for finger prints and wore off the switches or dials.

7. That air suspension would go rise quicker if I used a foot pump and treat things like ACE pipe replacement as when not if and factor price accordingly.

Sorry it is a long post but want to know if I am just being fussy and will never get what I want. As I say not expecting perfect and will have issue at that price point but am I expecting to much.

Cheers guys.
If all that is wrong with it, you will be spending another 12K sorting out all the faults, maybe less if you do all the work yourself.
But you really want to buy a motor you can drive, not something you will be working on for months.
 
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