Prop shaft and UJ choice.

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payydg

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Aberdeenshire
This is probably a stupid question - how do I know what size UJ i need for the prop shaft on my 200 tdi defender 90.

The parts manual lists a few different sizes
 
This is probably a stupid question - how do I know what size UJ i need for the prop shaft on my 200 tdi defender 90.

The parts manual lists a few different sizes

If in question, then why not measure the ones you have fitted?

Do you have a set of digital calipers?

Cheers
 
If in question, then why not measure the ones you have fitted?

Do you have a set of digital calipers?

Cheers

Fair point - I don't actually and was also interested in why different sizes given its the same prop shaft. Also the lady is at home and I'm at work, keen to order some parts.

And also I'm lazy and don't like lying on my back unless I absolutely have to... ;-)
 
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You need your vin number - but I suspect it will be the later/larger UJs. It's worth buying good quality ones - look for GKN. Some suppliers stock the "expedition quality" ones which have better seals. (metal and rubber as opposed to just rubber)
 
Buy the prop nut removal tool, get 3.8 drive one, excellent and great time savers.

Fitting new props is the easiest way, good chance if u/j is worn the slider section will also be worn.
 
If you do decide to fit a new prop get OEM or better. Don't bother with the cheap ones cos they are genuinely ****e.
I'm not sure I agree with that. I have a britpart front prop on mine and the UJ's were terrible and lasted about 10k, but swap them out for some proper ones and the prop has been fine for the last 150k since, couple of sets of ujs, but the slider and yokes are still good.
 
I'm not sure I agree with that. I have a britpart front prop on mine and the UJ's were terrible and lasted about 10k, but swap them out for some proper ones and the prop has been fine for the last 150k since, couple of sets of ujs, but the slider and yokes are still good.
I had a new Britpart prop fail because of a UJ within a couple of thousand miles - the end of the UJ bearing actually shot off down the road!. It's been fine since fitting decent UJs.
 
I had a new Britpart prop fail because of a UJ within a couple of thousand miles - the end of the UJ bearing actually shot off down the road!. It's been fine since fitting decent UJs.
Mine might have been less, all i remember is it was far less time than I would have liked, But they were also the sealed for life uj's rather than greasable ones, which I also do not like
 
Buy the prop nut removal tool, get 3.8 drive one, excellent and great time savers.

Fitting new props is the easiest way, good chance if u/j is worn the slider section will also be worn.

yeh good shout. I’m replacing both props and all UJs.
 
I'm not sure I agree with that. I have a britpart front prop on mine and the UJ's were terrible and lasted about 10k, but swap them out for some proper ones and the prop has been fine for the last 150k since, couple of sets of ujs, but the slider and yokes are still good.
Isn't that what I said?
 
Isn't that what I said?
Only partly, the prop itself and the slider are good on the cheap ones from my experience. The UJ's are terrible, but are also cheap and easy to replace. A pair of good UJ's and a cheap prop still works out significantly cheaper than an OEM prop and IMO would be of equal quality. (or certainly not of a large enough quality increase to justify the increase in price.)

Prices taken from Bearmach website as they stocked all the parts for equal comparison (aftermarket prop and UJ's are considerably cheaper from paddocks)
RTC3291G - £12.78 - OEM UJ - (link)
FRC8386 - £100.98 - aftermarket fromt prop - (link)
FRC8386G - £180.00 - OEM front prop - (link)
 
Only partly, the prop itself and the slider are good on the cheap ones from my experience. The UJ's are terrible, but are also cheap and easy to replace. A pair of good UJ's and a cheap prop still works out significantly cheaper than an OEM prop and IMO would be of equal quality. (or certainly not of a large enough quality increase to justify the increase in price.)

Prices taken from Bearmach website as they stocked all the parts for equal comparison (aftermarket prop and UJ's are considerably cheaper from paddocks)
RTC3291G - £12.78 - OEM UJ - (link)
FRC8386 - £100.98 - aftermarket fromt prop - (link)
FRC8386G - £180.00 - OEM front prop - (link)
Yes, that is true but if the OP was intending to buy a new prop and replace the UJ's he may as well keep his existing prop and replace the UJs on that. I tried to replace the UJs on mine and found it quite difficult and in need of quite a bit of precision.
 
I think B
Yes, that is true but if the OP was intending to buy a new prop and replace the UJ's he may as well keep his existing prop and replace the UJs on that. I tried to replace the UJs on mine and found it quite difficult and in need of quite a bit of precision.
ritpart
Only partly, the prop itself and the slider are good on the cheap ones from my experience. The UJ's are terrible, but are also cheap and easy to replace. A pair of good UJ's and a cheap prop still works out significantly cheaper than an OEM prop and IMO would be of equal quality. (or certainly not of a large enough quality increase to justify the increase in price.)

Prices taken from Bearmach website as they stocked all the parts for equal comparison (aftermarket prop and UJ's are considerably cheaper from paddocks)
RTC3291G - £12.78 - OEM UJ - (link)
FRC8386 - £100.98 - aftermarket fromt prop - (link)
FRC8386G - £180.00 - OEM front prop - (link)
I think britpart do some OEM props as well... Marked 'G' I think. The genuine LR ones are quite expensive
 
I think B

ritpart

I think britpart do some OEM props as well... Marked 'G' I think. The genuine LR ones are quite expensive
The one I linked is an OEM made by GKN, not a genuine land rover one, they are very expensive!

Yes, that is true but if the OP was intending to buy a new prop and replace the UJ's he may as well keep his existing prop and replace the UJs on that. I tried to replace the UJs on mine and found it quite difficult and in need of quite a bit of precision.

I quite regularly replace them on mine (I do a lot of miles and a uj last me about 30k) takes about half an hour including removal and refitting of the prop. I do not find they need precision but they definitely need a very large vice or a press to remove them if they have been in for a while. I have successfully changed them with a hammer but that is a bit crude and the uj had not been in for long and was not seized to the yoke.
 
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