Problem with Starting and keeping it running as cuts out after 5-10 mins

Hi People,

I am totally stuck. I live Near Southwold in Suffolk & I have got a 2001 P38 Range Rover 4.0 HSE Auto.

I bought the car with an overheating problem however I cant get to diagnosing the overheating as the car either wont start or starts then cuts out after 5-10 mins.

The battery was dead when I bought it so we replaced it with a new one. Was showing 14.4 so it has got plenty of power in it. However the engine just turns over without starting.

Then after leaving it for a period of time (30 mins or so) suddenly I turn the key and it starts and runs. After it running for approx 15 mins the temp guage was showing very hot so I turned the car off.

Checked the radiator and it wasnt hot?

Thee was a water leak coming from underneath the engine so I have put it down to 3 possibilities. Broken hose, Thermostat, or water pump.

Anyways after I had checked the above on the car I tried to start it again and it wouldnt start. I put the key in the ignition and there are 2 different types of Bleeping sounds. The display shows that the all the windows need resetting. However when I turn the key again it just turns over without starting.

I Locked the car up using the key fob button and decided to try it again the following day.

I turned the key in the ignition again and low and beyhold it started. Whilst the car was running I decided to go and get some more water to top up and when I returned the car had switched itself off. Tried starting it again and it would only turn over.

I am lost as to what the problem can be and I am a total newbie to Range Rovers. I need to use the car as my Mrs is disabled and we live in a very rural area.

Can anyone help me? I live in suffolk near Southwold.

Also is there any websites that I can download diagnostic software for my P38 that I can run off of a laptop?

Thanks peeps.

Miles

Diagnostics is a must on this. No software you can get to run on a laptop. You need a Nanocom or the like. Sounds like something is switching the engine immobiliser on and off. Think looking at the thermostat maybe a good idea.

wammers said:

Diagnostics is a must on this. No software you can get to run on a laptop. You need a Nanocom or the like. Sounds like something is switching the engine immobiliser on and off. Think looking at the thermostat maybe a good idea.

Click to expand...

Agree with the Wammer, if the rad is totally cold, stat could be stuck closed....

As for the starting issue..no clue, the Wammer or Datatek are pretty clued up on the electrical side of things...

Wammers correct, you need to get a diagnostic. I use TestBook T4 but can't get to you as I am in the Isle of Man, unless you fancy getting it over here and have a holiday whilst its fixed. Seriously the diagnostic does not need the engine running to get the engine ECU faults read.
This may not be your problem but I have a 2000 4.6. The engine cut out whilst driving home and would not restart. I waited for the AA but after 40 minutes or so it started and I was able to limp another four miles towards home. Sat in it and waited for the AA to arrive at the new location. The car started and ran enough to get it on the back of the recovery lorry and again to get it on my drive. Next day started it and it stopped running after ten minutes. Put TestBook on it and got Fuel Pump Relay P1230 (only got that because I had taken it out to check it) BUT also got Reference Mark Detector Fault (Reluctor Wheel) P0335. This indicated the Crankshaft Position Sensor failing so put a new one in and at the same time replaced the Engine Coolant Sensor as failure of this sensor can cause difficult running/starting cutting out. With both replaced she ran fine. I am blad she did as we caught the ferry next morning and spent a few days break arout Chester. Might not be the fault you have but worth getting a diagnostic too.
ps the Engine Coolant Sensor on a Thor engine means removing (setting asside) the Alternator as the sensor is behind it.