Prima Tin Sump solution

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land61

Member
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44
Just done this on mine,

The prima double skinned sump is as thick as a dodgey tin can...honestly! so after a good few years on and they are looking a bit worse for wear. Also they are no longer available.

My engine is out for a spruce up and I started looking for a good second hand one...non around.

Then I stumbled on something, the L series engine has the same basic block layout, so wonder if their sumps fit. At this point I would have payed good money for anything to fit...then I lucked out big time.

1. The rover 600 2.0 Turbo fits exactly, same bolt pattern on the sump
2. They are thick alloy casings
3. Rimmer Bros have limited clearance stock of these and are selling them for £25 plus VAT!!
at that price I took a gamble and bought one for my prima. when it arrived I tried it, on one side there is a casting lip that needs to be removed with a grinder, but after that it fits perfectly.
The only other jobs are, oil pickup needs to be raised by about 10mm as the bottom is thicker, this can be done by buying the oil pickup tube (though the only ones around now are in spain, I got the last one in the uk) or unbraze the bottom of the pickup assembly you already have, cut 10mm off the bottom of the tube and rebraze the strainer on the bottom.

here is the sump

LSB102070.jpg



so part number needed

LSB102070 sump from rimmer bros
GUG813102SG rubber sump gasket
LSL100220 oil pickup strainer assembly bit of a hunt but some out there still, its for rover 600 2.0 turbo diesel, maybe try breakers or rover x parts http://www.mgroverpartfinder.com/
[URL='http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-CDU1344']CDU1344 sucktion o ring
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If you do it the brazing way then check the height of the pickup is correct by installing it with sump and a touch inside the sump, look throught the sump drain, the strainer should sit 8-9mm from the bottom of the sump.

The sump has an air vent already there, for the other sump vent I made a flange with the original s shaped below oil vent from the tin sump tiny bit of clearancing and this works with the 2nd below oil sump being relocated to the other side of the engine.

The alloy sump has m8 holes instead of m6, this is because the rover 600 used the sump for and engine stay which is not needed so I slide on a small 4mm BLACK SILICONE VACUUM HOSE TUBING which spaces the m6 perfectly and also hold then in the alloy sump ready for fitment, use m6x30 12.9 cap heads for the sump with stainless steel penny washers under the cap head, all looks factory and so much better than the god awfull tin sump.
 
A good tip for any Prima users out there. Looking at that sump it could be one I made the tooling for many years ago; scary reminder !
Not sure if any truth in it, but someone told me the Prima engine is still being made for use in refuse wagons to drive the hydraulics on the wast compactor.
 
A good tip for any Prima users out there. Looking at that sump it could be one I made the tooling for many years ago; scary reminder !
Not sure if any truth in it, but someone told me the Prima engine is still being made for use in refuse wagons to drive the hydraulics on the wast compactor.
Many thanks if you did make the tooling for a job well done, when compared to the tin one its just so much better, over on the rover forum was a chap who said he designed the alloy one when he was at rover for powertrain when they first has solid modelling software
 
land61, I spent 35 years as a toolmaker making injection moulds for plastic items then the last 15 years working on dies for aluminium components.
I retired after 50 years but still have a lathe and milling machine at home because I just can not stop wanting to make/repair things. Most stuff I do now is for pre war bikes.
 
Funny thing, the rover 600 did not have a sump baffle, however it did have the fixings for one cast inside, the rover 420 however did have the baffle and identical fixings, so so long as the clearances are to specification on the rods I have aquired a 420 baffle which I will fit into the 600 sump, if it all works the baffle will be better than both the sherpa and montego baffles as it covers both longditudinal and transverse movement
 
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