Power steering nightmare

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Stuart1003

New Member
Posts
9
Location
Northumberland
Hi all after months of not being able to find time to get on with repairs to my power steering which literally had no power. I have renewed the belt, box, hoses and pump. Filled up the fluid which pulled through fine and remains at a constant level. Done the old turn the wheels left to right to purge and all ready to go. However when I have gone to take it for a test drive the old problem still persists, it's as if there is no power steering at all and probably feels stiffer than standard steering! It moves fine up on the jacks without resistance but as soon as it is dropped to the deck it just stiffens up. Am I missing a trick here or could there be something else going on other than the power steering itself? I am at a total loss right now. One other thing is no matter how many times I realign the steering wheel it always ends up out by a mile, not sure if it is related?

Thanks all.
 
If you can hear the pump making hum/squeek noise at full lock then problem is likely somewhere else.
Common stiff steering problems.
Track rod bent a bit and binding in the guide under the diff,
Uj's on the steering column seizing up.
Bearings in swivel housing duff.
Explain more about steering wheel align problem and how you are doing it.
 
So it’s had:

new pump
New steering box
New belts
New hoses
New fluid

and it still does it?
Problem is elsewhere than the PAS, check all your drag links, swivels track rods end and steering column links etc
 
Hi all thanks for all the suggestions.

There is no squeaking from anywhere so I am sure all the parts are working that I have changed (Lynall I have changed all parts). I also forgot to mention I have also renewed the steering shaft UJ's. I now have it back up on the the jacks and you can literally turn the wheel with one finger. I have started inspecting underneath and have noticed the rear steering track rod ends boots have perished. So that is my first port of call, I haven't noticed any bends yet. I have heard about the swivel bearings being a common one, thanks tottot for that info too. Thing is I heard it is a pig of a job, so starting with wire brushes and WD40 I think I better prepare myself! Not a job I have done before so any advice/tips appreciated.

@tottot when I say the steering alignment I mean that when I have had the steering wheel off and put it back the right way up with the wheels pointing forward, after turning left to right and the wheels are pointing forward again the steering wheel has not come back to where it was set. Got no clue on that one either.
 
Stuart1003 said:
Hi all thanks for all the suggestions.

There is no squeaking from anywhere so I am sure all the parts are working that I have changed (Lynall I have changed all parts). I also forgot to mention I have also renewed the steering shaft UJ's. I now have it back up on the the jacks and you can literally turn the wheel with one finger. I have started inspecting underneath and have noticed the rear steering track rod ends boots have perished. So that is my first port of call, I haven't noticed any bends yet. I have heard about the swivel bearings being a common one, thanks tottot for that info too. Thing is I heard it is a pig of a job, so starting with wire brushes and WD40 I think I better prepare myself! Not a job I have done before so any advice/tips appreciated.

@tottot when I say the steering alignment I mean that when I have had the steering wheel off and put it back the right way up with the wheels pointing forward, after turning left to right and the wheels are pointing forward again the steering wheel has not come back to where it was set. Got no clue on that one either.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't say changing swivel bushes is a hard job. Pretty easy so long as you just take it steady, and put everything back the way it was, and follow the instructions in the manual re preload setting.

Steering.
Ignore the front wheels. Make sure the arm on the steering box is central, and then put the steering wheel on straight.
Then adjust the first track rod until the wheels are pointing straight ahead.
 
As above, you may think you have set your wheels straight ahead but they never are. The steering rod may need adjustment after driving straight for a few yards few to get steering wheel spot on.
 
Thanks again for the useful advice.
I have tackled the front left hub first once the swivel housing refurb kit arrived. It has took a lot of penetrant and heat to get all the bolts out of the pin housing, pretty much everything was badly corroded. A lot of wire brushing with the grinder and it has come up decent. The hub assembly wasn't as bad and cleaned up in the same manner. The swivel itself is in mint condition apart from some surface rust on the flange which should clean up easy enough. One problem is that the stub axle is shot where the bearing meets the collar there are pretty bad gouges so it will need replaced. Question is does anyone know the correct one to get? The part numbers on the hub and housing are HRC2373 & HRC1924 respectively. There does not appear to be a number on the stub that I can see. I have tried to look for the axle number but no luck so far.
One other question, how easily should the track rod ends be able to turn in the drag link and bar? |I have had to refurb them as the ends were stuck fast, even after removing cleaning and greasing they are still really tight.

Thanks again. 20210702_181427.jpg 20210701_232359.jpg 20210703_122928.jpg 20210701_232349.jpg 20210702_181433.jpg 20210703_122851.jpg 20210702_194106.jpg
 

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Ends are often stuck in the track rod and steering rod and if well corroded need heat to remove, even then you may well find the threads inside the tube are fubar. Replacement rods are not expensive, remember to get clamps as well. Copper slip is your friend.
What year is your truck ?
 
Yeah I'm thinking a new set of rods etc. Probably just get the full kit, just bought some clamps so they can be spares I suppose. Defender 90 300TDi 1994 Hardtop
 
Your stub axle looks like the early version, but 93 was a change of type year. You may well have to go on the vin number or picture comparison. With older Landy's you never know what previous owners have fitted.
 
Well, I have all the relevant parts(I think) all going together nicely. Another question, do you need 2 stop bolts? I only had to remove 1 but there is defo room for another on the other side of the swivel housing. Such a noobie tbh but all the advice is getting me there. Have a good weekend all.
 
Stuart1003 said:
Well, I have all the relevant parts(I think) all going together nicely. Another question, do you need 2 stop bolts? I only had to remove 1 but there is defo room for another on the other side of the swivel housing. Such a noobie tbh but all the advice is getting me there. Have a good weekend all.
Click to expand...
There is 1 stop bolt on each side.
 
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