Possible swivel problem?

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19_Hue_95

Active Member
Posts
100
Location
Midlands
Hi All,

My 300tdi 110 has been ruining really well up until recently, so its decided to punish me with absolutely everything going wrong at once. I have three problems which I am slowly beginning to think are linked.

  • When low speed coasting (clutch in, no accelerator, either brake or no brake) to a standstill i.e. at a junction, you can hear and feel a repeating clunk, its not loud violent but you can hear it and feel it. It almost feels like the wheels are hexagonal!
  • It moves about, and does not always do it, but between 52-60mph there is a wobble in the wheel, the truck still drives straight and true, has no effect on handling. its not a violent wobble and can easily be stopped with light grip on the steering wheel.
  • Half way through a trip on Saturday started hearing this howl (almost sounded like air intake sound) between 40-50mph. Later inspection shows that the front passenger tyre is worn unevenly on the outside (gutter side) edge. There is slight (1mm'ish) play in the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position when jacked and no movement at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position.

I believe that all this would point to the swivel? I have not had chance to get the wheel off yet and have a full inspection. Having not done any jobs related to the swivels before and a bit worried about how to do a full rebuild (not to mention the cost) so I have a few questions:

1) Would it be acceptable to just remove a shim or two to increase the preload (and is doing that as simple as removing one and refitting?) or should I realistically be looking at a full rebuild of the swivels.

2) If I rebuild the swivel (I am quite worried that removing a shim will only mask the problem for a little while) do I need to replace the swivel balls at the same time (they are a big cost)

3) Again, if I rebuild the swivels do I need to do both sides at the same time?

Many Thanks,
 
Fine to remove a shim to set pre load. How to on you tube. Repeating clunk in drive line can be a tight [seizing ] UJ, a wheel bearing problem [ may be cause of tyre wear] and or a slightly dragging hand brake.
Balls only need replacement if corroded, swivel bearings can be replaced. One side at a time is fine.
Your wobble is likely the lack of preload.
 
Also, have a look at the condition of your brake discs. You can get uneven wear or a rust patch (these are thicker relative to a shiny bit of disc) and this can cause a repeated clunking or pulsed sound that you can also feel through the vehicle and steering.
Have you tried for any movement in the road wheel between the 9 O'Clock and 3 O'Clock positions? It might be worth checking your wheel bearing adjustment. It's an initial easier option than taking a shim out of the swivel bearings if you haven't done it before. Worn wheel bearings can sound like you have a second world war bomber flying just above you.
Something as simple as normal tyre wear can give you wheel imbalance and, therefore, wobble.
The wobble could also be initial symptoms of panhard rod bush wear. When this wear is advanced it's like driving a bucking bronco, so don't worry, you're not at that stage yet if it's those bushes.
 
Thanks gents, that's given me some confidence. I think I am fairly happy with what I am doing, I am just a bit nervous!

Fine to remove a shim to set pre load. How to on you tube. Repeating clunk in drive line can be a tight [seizing ] UJ, a wheel bearing problem [ may be cause of tyre wear] and or a slightly dragging hand brake.
Balls only need replacement if corroded, swivel bearings can be replaced. One side at a time is fine.
Your wobble is likely the lack of preload.

I have wheel wobble at 12 and 6, so my first look is at the preload. I have bought a shim and pin kit so will probably replace the pins too.

While its all in pieces I will be checking and probably replacing the wheel bearing too as that is something I am happy doing. I know a friend / mechanic did tighten it up just before Christmas, so that might be a sign that it needs replacing anyway - although no play in the 3 and 9 position.

Also, have a look at the condition of your brake discs. You can get uneven wear or a rust patch (these are thicker relative to a shiny bit of disc) and this can cause a repeated clunking or pulsed sound that you can also feel through the vehicle and steering.
Have you tried for any movement in the road wheel between the 9 O'Clock and 3 O'Clock positions? It might be worth checking your wheel bearing adjustment. It's an initial easier option than taking a shim out of the swivel bearings if you haven't done it before. Worn wheel bearings can sound like you have a second world war bomber flying just above you.
Something as simple as normal tyre wear can give you wheel imbalance and, therefore, wobble.
The wobble could also be initial symptoms of panhard rod bush wear. When this wear is advanced it's like driving a bucking bronco, so don't worry, you're not at that stage yet if it's those bushes.

My first thought before all this shenanigans with bearings and preload was the disc (EDIT: or the hand brake). There is nothing wrong with it, but has seen better days. Its one of the reasons I have ignored the clunking for a while as I simply assumed it was that. I will give it a good inspection at the weekend.

There is no play at the 3 and 9 position and it rotates freely without any grinding. But the wheel bearing was tightened by a friend / mechanic before Christmas, which could be a sign its on its way out. Its certainly been a few years since I have replaced it so I will probably replace at the same time.

I have ruled out tie rods etc. as they are pretty much brand new and all Gwyn Lewis and are as tight as anything. Panard is a possibility, there is no movement, but that was only by hand - I will try with a bar at the weekend.
 
Thanks gents, that's given me some confidence. I think I am fairly happy with what I am doing, I am just a bit nervous!



I have wheel wobble at 12 and 6, so my first look is at the preload. I have bought a shim and pin kit so will probably replace the pins too.

While its all in pieces I will be checking and probably replacing the wheel bearing too as that is something I am happy doing. I know a friend / mechanic did tighten it up just before Christmas, so that might be a sign that it needs replacing anyway - although no play in the 3 and 9 position.



My first thought before all this shenanigans with bearings and preload was the disc (EDIT: or the hand brake). There is nothing wrong with it, but has seen better days. Its one of the reasons I have ignored the clunking for a while as I simply assumed it was that. I will give it a good inspection at the weekend.

There is no play at the 3 and 9 position and it rotates freely without any grinding. But the wheel bearing was tightened by a friend / mechanic before Christmas, which could be a sign its on its way out. Its certainly been a few years since I have replaced it so I will probably replace at the same time.

I have ruled out tie rods etc. as they are pretty much brand new and all Gwyn Lewis and are as tight as anything. Panard is a possibility, there is no movement, but that was only by hand - I will try with a bar at the weekend.
Does your shim and pin kit include bearings too? If you're going that far then it's best to replace the bearings as it's generally those that wear and not the pins.

Investigating the handbrake isn't too difficult, but it's a bit of a job in itself as you have to disconnect the rear prop and then remove the handbrake drum. Are your four main brake discs in good nick? ie shiny, smooth and flat with a good thickness to them?

Noise wise, wheel bearings can seem ok when the wheel is jacked up and you're turning them by hand. It can be a different story with the weight of the Landy on them rolling down the road.

The best way to learn is to get stuck in. As tottot said, there's a lot of good instructional videos out there and Landy Zone is a great source of support.
As well as Mike at Britannica Restorations The Trailer Fitters Toolbox videos are well worth watching. Here's a few to get you started.





 
So a little update. I started with what I knew which was the wheel bearings - the passenger side one had certainly seen better days and although still working it was very rough on rotation. With that replaced (along with the drivers side as I like doing things in pairs) the play in the wheel had gone entirely.

I had full intention of looking at the swivel preload, but changing the wheel bearing has made (touch wood) the problem go away. Craddocks, naturally, stitched me up trying to get hold of the shim / pin kit so I have not actually looked at it. I am going away to Scotland soon so not desperate to start messing with things this close to the trip.

I also replaced the front brake calipers which seem to have helped with the slight steering wobble. Although I have not had a long test drive yet so it remains to be seen on the 6 hours up to Scotland!
 
So a little update. I started with what I knew which was the wheel bearings - the passenger side one had certainly seen better days and although still working it was very rough on rotation. With that replaced (along with the drivers side as I like doing things in pairs) the play in the wheel had gone entirely.

I had full intention of looking at the swivel preload, but changing the wheel bearing has made (touch wood) the problem go away. Craddocks, naturally, stitched me up trying to get hold of the shim / pin kit so I have not actually looked at it. I am going away to Scotland soon so not desperate to start messing with things this close to the trip.

I also replaced the front brake calipers which seem to have helped with the slight steering wobble. Although I have not had a long test drive yet so it remains to be seen on the 6 hours up to Scotland!
Well done, sounds like you've sorted most of the issues. The brake calipers won't be causing the wheel wobble. If one of the discs is warped, or rusted in one patch, that might be it. My money is on your panhard rod bushes starting to wear.
 
I made it! 1,748 mile round trip over 18 days and no real issues to speak of. I did tighten the wheel bearings at one of the camp sites, but I was half expecting to have to do that once they bedded in a bit - it was my intention to do it before we left after a long run but I never got time. The only thing that played up was the viscous fan, it looks as if the bearing has gone so I took the fan off - amazing what a difference it made to the drive taking it off, I think I will replace it with an electric fan.

The steering wobble is still persistent at about 55 to 60 (comes and goes depending on the gradient), it weirdly drives totally straight and true. Even with the steering wheel wobble you can take your hands off the wheel and it will go straight. I am hoping its the panard bushes, its about the only thing that hasn't been changed, I have the new bushes and bolts its just finding the motivation to do it.

The 'hexagonal wheel' clunk comes and goes. Its almost random when it does it, normally after a long drive, but not always. Its always moving slowly in 1st (and now reverse) or coasting. Its got less frequent than it was, but when it does it its more violent. I am getting a bit worried that it might be gearbox related?

MOT test next week at a new testing station as we have recently moved house..... wish me luck...
 
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