Picked up a green L322 3.6 TDV8... 25 minutes later....

Hi all!

I picked up an L322 3.6 TDV8 this afternoon. The trip back home was about 5 hours... 25 minutes into our motorway run we get an error in the GAP tool the old owner gave me.

P023D-22 - Manifold absolute pressure turbocharger / supercharger etc...

It would simply go into limp mode and not allow us to drive over 80 kmh. We had to keep pulling over onto the hard shoulder to turn the car off and on again to reset it.... We then called the ex-owner and told us to put it in manual and keep the revs between 2 and 3k. It was quite effective. However, we did see some oil on the fuel injectors.

We cleaned the oily areas and then managed to get the car home. We were then advised to spray the car with brake cleaner and let it dry, then drive the car 30 minutes to see if the oil returns.

When I got home again after 30 mins, the injectors were dry. Surprisingly...

Any ideas? I am not a mechanic. I am simply repeating what the conversations were between my mechanically minded friend and ex-owner.

Cheers everyone!

I believe they can get a hole in part of the plastic intake pipes which causes a diff in pressure which throws a fault

brianp38dse said:

I believe they can get a hole in part of the plastic intake pipes which causes a diff in pressure which throws a fault

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Split manifold

Check this thread


I will look for the extra bit on that code as the 4.4 seem to have same as the 3.6.

J

Edit cant find that code reason sorry, but there only seems to be the 1 which is relevant and in the thread link.

Datatek said:

Split manifold

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Been there a few times.

The pictures aren't of the injectors though, that's the fuel rail.

OP, grab the full text from the code please; I'm fairly sure that it will say something like "boost correlation issue" which is where you have a mismatch in the pressure from one bank to the other. It won't tell you which but it should be quite easy to work out.

Remove the two boost hoses on the top of the engine and inspect them, when I had a split in one it was under a sleeve so it wasn't obvious at all and if I'd actually taken it off and looked at it properly I could've saved myself the worst 9hr drive home I've ever had!

If it's not those, it could be the small elbow ones but if it's the manifolds you can diagnose them with some washing up liquid and water

Hey guys.

Thank you so much for pitching in here. Car is going in for an inspection next week.

I have attached the full error.

@Blob Yes, I now realise that I was not looking at the fuel injectors. Shows the depth of my mechanical knowledge.

I have attached a picture of the full code.

Ok, great, you're in a good place now as you have the detail. This is almost certainly a boost leak so start with the easy stuff, pull these two pipes off and inspect them thoroughly for splits, it's a quick easy test you can do:



If they look fine, spray some soapy water on the inlet manifolds whilst someone revs the car, you don't need high rpm but you need a good amount of throttle to get boost pressure so press your foot firmly down on the throttle and lift off (does that make sense?), You'll see the bubbles come up where it's split if that's the case.

The manifolds tend to split along the top edge like this, ask me how I know...



I've bonded them back together with great success in the past.

A split manifold I have found manifests itself when you are on a long gradient without working the engine too hard, the small amount of air that escapes it can usually deal with on flat terrain or if you're on heavy throttle for short periods it's not enough of a loss to trigger the fault whereas a split boost hose will be much more noticeable to the car and cause a more frequent failure.

If the seller had GapIID and sold it with the car, it's unlikely to be a boost hose as I would expect them to have fixed it themselves. It could just be sheer coincidence though, mine split in France and I foolishly didn't inspect it properly so I had a miserable 9 hour drive back to Calais trying to keep the revs up and stay off boost as much as possible. There's never a warning ahead of that failure.

Definitely check those two things before you take it in anywhere, you need one tool (7mm socket or screwdriver) to change those hoses and 10 minutes. Exercise caution around the little coolant hose that runs next to the Boost pipe on the left side of the car, it can be snapped off easily, not expensive to replace that part either but better not to need to.

Let us know

Looking again this morning, is all of that mess only on one side of the engine? If it is, I would be putting money on a split manifold here, that is a LOT of oil and soot there so I don't think it's a recent failure, I expect it's been like it for some time now. Have you got a noticeable stain on the underside of the engine cover too? Like this?


There's so much mess around that manifold I'm going to call it too, it's split.

If it were me, I'd use Q-bond to stick it back together for now perhaps and see how you get on with the car before investing in a new manifold as it's an involved job that won't be a cheap fix if you aren't doing it yourself.

Clean the area on the manifold with brake cleaner and tissue/brushes etc. to get it fully clean. You won't get oil as a liquid there, it comes out as part of the vapour when on boost so takes a long time to accumulate.

There's a linked video in this thread (post #13 I think) which shows the leak, they use a compressor to highlight it but as I mentioned before, you can do it by revving the engine and generating a bit of boost.

Hey Blob!

Amazing breakdown, mate! Extremely helpful. I have not had time yet to start the car and try the bubble test...

But after reading your description, I have a horrible feeling it is the manifold that has split.

I quickly snapped this shot before heading to work this morning [obviously not in the RR]...

The engine cover looks almost identicle to yours. Really bad sign.

I am even looking at manifold replacements online. Any suggestions on brand? Huge difference in price from aftermarket to Land Rover parts....

I actually cannot believe this happened 15 minutes after picking the car up. Pretty unfortunate.

How many hours is normally required to replace the manifold?

I am pretty gutted actually...

Cheers again!

It may have been there beforehand and didn't show up on the test drive..

Mark Piercy said:

It may have been there beforehand and didn't show up on the test drive..

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My mechanically minded friend checked the engine and saw nothing. I think this has just been rotten luck...

That's a shame dude

Absolutely.

How many hours of labour would be considered normal to do the repair?

Just so nobody gets my pants down.

Especially considering the cost of labour here.

Additionally, what is the general opinion on aftermarket parts?

That's a good question, maybe some bods here can help

The mess of that tells me it's been like it for quite some time, the seller may not have known what the issue was but I'd bet he knew there was one as he knew how to drive it to lessen the impact. Sorry man, that's sadly the way too many people operate.

Don't beat your friend up either as he was looking at an old diesel, a bit of oil mess is nothing unusual unless you've been in the situation you're currently in. It's disheartening now but it'll soon be a distant memory and you'll forget it once it's driving as it should.

As I've said, I would bond it (for now at least). The only inlet manifold I've changed is on our D4 which is totally different and that was INVOLVED! I'm assured these are every bit as time consuming.

Aftermarket parts can be just fine, buy them from reputable sources, we have Island 4x4 and Maltings here who don't like returns or bad press so they tend to offer a good range of parts from very cheap to OEM and somewhere in between.

I would estimate 8 hours labour as a bit of a guess based on the attached which I think is 4.8 hours to do the job on LR time. If it's an experienced LR tech they'd probably do it in a lot less but a garage without the special knowledge or being used to working in such a limited space is going to struggle a bit. Don't buy cheap injector seals though, I'd pay the money for LR ones of those, there's way too much garbage out there in that field.

Blob said:

The mess of that tells me it's been like it for quite some time, the seller may not have known what the issue was but I'd bet he knew there was one as he knew how to drive it to lessen the impact. Sorry man, that's sadly the way too many people operate.

Don't beat your friend up either as he was looking at an old diesel, a bit of oil mess is nothing unusual unless you've been in the situation you're currently in. It's disheartening now but it'll soon be a distant memory and you'll forget it once it's driving as it should.

As I've said, I would bond it (for now at least). The only inlet manifold I've changed is on our D4 which is totally different and that was INVOLVED! I'm assured these are every bit as time consuming.

Aftermarket parts can be just fine, buy them from reputable sources, we have Island 4x4 and Maltings here who don't like returns or bad press so they tend to offer a good range of parts from very cheap to OEM and somewhere in between.

I would estimate 8 hours labour as a bit of a guess based on the attached which I think is 4.8 hours to do the job on LR time. If it's an experienced LR tech they'd probably do it in a lot less but a garage without the special knowledge or being used to working in such a limited space is going to struggle a bit. Don't buy cheap injector seals though, I'd pay the money for LR ones of those, there's way too much garbage out there in that field.

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Don’t forget in that doc is mentions removing injectors to remove the cover.

J