L322 Petrol. Idle / Viscous fan issues at engine start

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SK2000

Member
Posts
37
Location
Northumberland
Hi all. Can anyone shed light on this. I have a L322 2006 HSE Jaguar engine Range Rover. Recently installed a FSR following hvac problems. Local Range Rover advised to disconnect the battery for 24hrs to clear obd errors as diagnostics wasn’t clearing error.Problem is that when connected the engine fan now comes on full belt in park and idle speed revs up to approx 1100 rpm, it also threw up an error of low coolant which wasn’t low. Knowing that it could be viscosity of the antifreeze I flushed and replaced which cleared the low coolant error with diagnostics but not the fan/ idle issues.
Diagnostics now shows a P0626 and battery icon on. Battery is 9mnths old and tested 12.4volts.
I’ve now after disconnecting battery following visit to RR garage got something that sounds like a tractor and their response is “bring it in and we’ll charge you to connect to our diagnostic before looking at problem”
PCM-Engine Petrol

  • P0626-00 (2A) Generator field terminal - circuit high

Any help would be appreciated
 
First of all ,battery is goosed 12.4 is almost flat. should charge at min 14.2 with everything switched on. no point doing anything till you sort that out.
 
Hi Thanks for taking an interest. Battery has been charged at 14.6 yet minute placed onto vehicle shows 12.4. Recently replaced battery from RR battery to Varta and again minute placed back into vehicle shows 12.4 on Gap iid bluetooth diagnostic as healthy battery. No faults are showing during battery charging which shows 12.8 volts at end of charge. Tested alternator 14.7 volts charging
 
Engine idle will increase if it thinks it’s battery is low on charge, not sure about fan but mine comes on full bore sometimes when I first start it.
Check this out but I believe you can do a hard reset by following the correct battery disconnect procedure and then waiting 10 minutes with battery disconnected and then touching the two battery cables together . Still disconnected of course.
Do you have Landrover friendly diagnostics to clear the code with as this should be your first port of call.
The code you have points to alternator fault I believe .
Do you have any battery drain ?
Could the new FSR be faulty ?
 
SK2000 said:
Hi Thanks for taking an interest. Battery has been charged at 14.6 yet minute placed onto vehicle shows 12.4. Recently replaced battery from RR battery to Varta and again minute placed back into vehicle shows 12.4 on Gap iid bluetooth diagnostic as healthy battery. No faults are showing during battery charging which shows 12.8 volts at end of charge. Tested alternator 14.7 volts charging
Click to expand...
I have recently had 2 useless new Varta batteries.
 
Thanks for your input. Their was a battery drain and an hvac error. I had numerous issues with the heating buttons and fans internally not doing what they should and I started off by replacing the FSR from RR with advise to disconnect battery as diagnostics don’t alway clear the error. The above rectified the heating ventilation issues and all buttons worked but the battery light and engine fan the minute you start the engine comes in like a jumbo jets and rpms race and settle in the region of 1200. Previously around 700rpm. Tried through diagnostics to lower again and clear codes however heads straight back.
Can try the hard reset however the vehicle reset via diagnostics is not sorting issue.
Could the thermostat be now faulted causing the engine fan to race. As the car is cold and fan would not normally be on something is causing it to come on so fast when in park and neutral. Car was quiet prior to battery disconnection for 24 hrs.
 
If alternator fault then I suspect that their would be no charging but I’ve tested and it’s doing its job. Also reverted back to a fully charged RR battery and still no joy.
 
SK2000 said:
Thanks for your input. Their was a battery drain and an hvac error. I had numerous issues with the heating buttons and fans internally not doing what they should and I started off by replacing the FSR from RR with advise to disconnect battery as diagnostics don’t alway clear the error. The above rectified the heating ventilation issues and all buttons worked but the battery light and engine fan the minute you start the engine comes in like a jumbo jets and rpms race and settle in the region of 1200. Previously around 700rpm. Tried through diagnostics to lower again and clear codes however heads straight back.
Can try the hard reset however the vehicle reset via diagnostics is not sorting issue.
Could the thermostat be now faulted causing the engine fan to race. As the car is cold and fan would not normally be on something is causing it to come on so fast when in park and neutral. Car was quiet prior to battery disconnection for 24 hrs.
Click to expand...
The viscous fan running flat out on start up for a short time is normal until the silicone inside the coupling loosens up.
 
If the battery is showing 12.4 after charging and putting in the car there must be a serious drain somewhere, surely
 
Thanks Tarphenry. It’s strange that this all happened when correcting one issue. Their was a massive drain with the hvac issue lowering battery down to just above the 10volts within an hour and I thought all my problems had gone. Testing drain and checking fuses was a nightmare as forums suggested that various modules go to sleep at different times.
 
Hi I’m using a GAP Bluetooth. Just ran it and shows the following. First error is new to me and if correct maybe drain.
BPM-Body Processor

  • 0xA2 Passenger door mirror heater: open circuit
IPC-Instrument Pack

  • U0248-87 (2F) Lost communication with remote driver utility module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
    ( on 04-08-2018 13:10:57 at 267300 km )
LCM-Light Control

  • 0x7C Front left direction indicator defective
  • 0x7D Front right direction indicator defective
PCM-Engine Petrol

  • P0626-00 (68) Generator field terminal - circuit high
VIM-Immobilizer

  • B1B01-87 (2E) Key transponder - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
    ( on 04-08-2018 13:13:05 at 267300 km )
 
The thing is, if you have a low battery then none of the electronics will be able to function correctly, they are very voltage sensative
 
I’ve tried boosting with power suply to enable voltage to show 13.7. Do you know what the car battery voltage should read and is acceptable for systems function correctly.
 
not specifically no, with engine running and everything switched on, I would be looking for between 14.2 to 14.5 volts .I know that battery voltage is critical . there are some on here who are very knowledgeable about electronics and will be able to assist you further when they visit the site
 
My passenger door mirror has had a heater fault since I’ve had it , the only one I would be concerned about is the one you already mentioned regarding the alternator.
What sounds like a tractor ?
If you have had bad battery drain / short circuit then I suppose it’s possible your alternator is unhappy.
If there is nothing that immediately appears to be about to combust I would be inclined to use it for a bit to see if it goes away.
The GAP is good kit, I guess you clear those faults and then they come back ?
 
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